Toro LX423 20HP Lawn Tractor 13AX90RS848 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues
I have a small incline
From what you describe, it sounds like you could have a faulty throttle return mechanism, a faulty variable drive, bad brakes, or a combination of these faults. The variable drive is not supposed to exceed 5.5 mph speed regardless of the terrain if working properly. The fact that you had to stand to put all your weight on the brakes in order to stop definitely is indicative of the need for servicing the braking mechanism, despite whatever else may also be at fault.
I turn the key nothing happens
First check voltage at battery. Should be 12.6 volts. Next check fuse. If problem has not been found you will need a test light and knowledge of the wiring system to pinpoint the failed switch.
No spark
could be the coil needs sanded on the ends or the flywheel mag needs sanding. adjust coil thickness of 2 matchbooks
Hourglass appeared on on my
Check for broken springs ontop of the mower deck these tensioner springs break after a while sometime you can use pliers to uncoil the spring a little and re-attach and use it untill you can get a replacement spring.
My lawn tractor died and now is readind dead but
Sounds like your charging system is burnt out or your battery cables wheren't tight enough when you reinstalled your new battery and as soon as you started it the first time and you ran the battery down it didn't charge, take the cables back off and clean them greese them up and put them back on and tight them up and charge the battery up and you should be good to go
I have a toro wheel
Hi pigeonsagogo...
You do not have a fuel pump on this, the fuel pump is gravity and a diaphgram inside of the carburetor.
Sounds like you have dirt/debris in your caburetor jets,fuel passages or a diaphgram that is becoming non-flexible.
Be sure to Check/Clean/Replace your Air Filter, a dirty air filter can make your engine run to rich with fuel.
NOTE: Before you disassemble the carburetor:
Make sure you mark each piece with a awl, or some kind of instrument that will make an alignment scratch before you dissemble the carburetor into separate pieces.
That way you will know which way it goes back together when you reassemble it.
Sometimes you can get by with priming the carburetor or by using starting fluid and letting it run a few times like that, and it will flush the gunk out of the jets,but most of the time you will need to rebuild the carburetor.
Be sure to check your fuel tank for water and dirt/debris, if there is water/debris then you need to clean your tank.
Also check you fuel line condition after a while they will degrade and need replacment.
Check/Clean/Replace your fuel filter if you have one.
Also make sure you are using fresh fuel.
If the mower is over a couple of years old, then I recommend that you buy and install a new carburetor repair kit,because the diaphragm will get hard and that will cause it to be hard to crank.
I recommend that you use a laquer thinner type cleaner to clean and dissolve the laquer build-up in the float and needle jet passages.
Be sure to remove all plastic and rubber parts before using the laquer thinner because it can dissolve the plastic parts and render them unuseable.
Be sure to use COMPRESSED AIR to blow out all the fuel and air passages.
Be careful when blowing out the passages, because there are sometimes small rubber type seats in the bottom of some of the passages.
Keep in mind that the float (if you have one) for the carburetor must be level when you go to reassemble the carburetor or follow the instructions you get with the carburetor kit.
When you clean your carburetor and remove the jet screws, you will first need to lightly seat the jet screws.
But before you lightly seat the jet screws count the number of turns it takes to seat the jet screws from their original position.
Be sure to mark the turns down on a piece of paper.
That way when you put the jets back in, you know to lightly seat them first and then turn them back out to their original position before you started.
Once you have your carburetor rebuilt that should solve your problem.
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While performing an oil and filter change on my
You could use new oil diluted with kerosene, or even gasoline, to help remove sludge....just run it for a short time and then drain it. But since you have a filter to remove bits of metal from the oil I think there is no need to do anything except change the oil at recommended intervals. It would be helpful to buy a magnetic drain plug to trap small pieces of metal.
Hi, I would like to know what is the typical compression value of a Kohler 16HP singel cylinder engine?
Yes, decompression lowers cylinder pressure during low rpm while cranking. If you're concerned with compression, you need to do a leakdown test. Inexpensive (~$30) units are available through numerous eVendors. The leakdown test provides a metered volume of air that is translated and displayed on a pressure gauge simply labeled high (excessive leakage), moderate, or low (nominal leakage).
It's an L-head engine and once they get a few hundred hours run time, the valves wear into the hard seat, lash goes to zero, and they become hard to start. You can check valve lash by removing the crankcase breather (two screws). If lash is near zero, time for a valve job. Plenty of how to videos on the web. If it's easy start, just low power then less likely a valve lash issue.
There are many things that cause low power. Bad fuel, water in fuel (fuel bowl), fouled carburetor, poor spark, fouled plug, improper plug gap, wrong plug, weak ignition module.
9/12/2023 10:24:23 AM •
Toro Garden
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Answered
on Sep 12, 2023
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