20 Most Recent Oldsmobile 1992 Cutlass Supreme Tailgate/Trunk Lid g68867108n 4 door Chicago, Illinois Questions & Answers

You are only tackling the problem from one direction - the attic floor. You can insulate this to say 6" lifting the floor on extensions to the rafters. Then you can insulate the inside of the roof. This can be done with Super Foil insulation - a combination of foils and insulation 17 layers altogether. This is clean and easy to fit, and will also make the attic very light efficient too.

Read manufacturer directions thoroughly. Measure smallest height and width dimensions of existing aluminum window frame for rough opening at several locations. Order retrofit window 1/2 inch smaller on each side. Remove old glass and center aluminum stave. Trim fin of new window as little as possible so it fits against outside face of confined edges of outside facing part of existing frame. Drill holes in frame as manufacturer instructions dictate. Test fit window and mark where outside trimmed fin ends on wall. Measure for shims at gaps between new and old inside frames. Install shims with Lock time PL caulking. Caulk existing window frame corners, holes from removing center stave, and a 1/2 inch bead within the area marked on exterior wall. Place window and push into caulk. Make sure there is full contact with caulk. Drill pilot holes at screw locations drilled earlier, Place silicone caulking on screw heads and screw window in place. Square up window while screwing. Trim inside of window and plug holes from screws. Good luck.

Solar control film (if that's what you are asking about) helps reduce heat transfer through windows. The film absorbs the UV elemnt of the sun's energy while reflecting the infra-red elements.

Depends what you are insulating and from what.

if it is the weather stripping you are talking about -it can be replaced go to your local lumber company with a piece

It really depends on the type of building, but in general, open-cell spray foam make more sense economically. Don't kow how relevant it is to you, but it also allows timber to breathe. It's great as a suond barrier because they block twice as much sound as closed-cell spray foam. Oh, and they are also unlikely to harm electric wiring or plumbing parts because of their usually low exothermic temperature. Hope I helped!

It seems to me that a reliable source would be this site from the Department of Energy. You just enter your zip code along with some other info and it provides recommendations for your building: http://web.ornl.gov/~roofs/Zip/ZipHome.html

wall or pipe? -If walls -wall studs set at 16" wide apart x 8' tall would be 10.64 sf(example) each so times width of wall x height of wall. --if a Pipe then--4" PIPE 12.57 Circumference(in) 12.57 sq.in5" PIPE 15.71 Circumference(in) 19.64 sq.in6" PIPE 18.85 Circumference(in) 28.27 sq.in8" PIPE 25.13 Circumference(in) 50.27 sq.in

you need to install acoustic insulation. This will prevent you from hearing all the noise.

Another good place to see what insulation you would need is a company called Radia Source. They will send you free samples so you can find the right one for your home. You can visit them at http://www.radiasource.com/ and request that free sample and see what reflective insulation you would need for your home.

Most likely wood siding as there probably bugs (ants) behind the wood. Spray the areas of the holes with a very strong scent spray...product of your choice...the spray would be a 2:1 deal as it should solve 2 problems at once.

Greenhouse foundations were most likely placed over non-native soils/ground. If you can, you could undermine (remove) the soils/ground below the foundation (footings). Try removing ground below foundation at door going to a depth of 5-6 feet depending where you live (check frost depth in your area) - remove all organics/top soil- going a least 5-6 feet beyond both sides of door openings (try not to remove more than a couple of feet in width at a time to the required depth to avoid any collapsing of the footings. This will only work if the footings have been poured on site in a continuous strip (below exterior walls) or if a slab-on-grade pad was put in place - not for any kind of blocks etc. Try not to loosen the ground too much at the bottom of the excavation, fill void to underside of footings with or batch your own. Try to get concrete product with a high slump (600 mm) - non-vibration/self-placing mix so it finds it's way in the void and underside of the foundations. As for the bent frame. ...Now, it could also just be a lack of support over the door opening due to load. Check and see if there is a proper lintel (header) above the door support by doubled jack studs. This fix would be a whole lot cheaper. Good luck.

Have you read this article about ways to improve door and window insulation in houses? I found a lot of great ideas here: http://www.houzz.com/ideabooks/4929532/list/Easy-Green--9-Low-Cost-Ways-to-Insulate-Windows-and-Doors

Urea-formaldehyde foam, which is know to release poisonous gas. Avoid at all costs.

Insulating your pipes won't stop the water from freezing but it will take a much longer time for the water to freeze, so it defintely helps a lot. I would do it if I were you.

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