20 Most Recent Crosley Radio Pictograph Slide Negative Scanner 1 ea - Page 7 Questions & Answers

The machine thinks the door isn't closed. Could be due to a faulty door switch or control board.

You could try a reset by unplugging the cord, wait 10 minutes or more, then plug it back in and press the Start/Cancel button. Otherwise, if a chinese control board is bad, you'll need a technician.

Unplug the washer for at least 10 minutes, then plug it back in and press Start/Cancel.

The manual for model CAW9244 is here ... http://www.crosley.com/assets/product/3251/useCareGuide.pdf

Get the manual for CAW9244 here ... http://www.crosley.com/assets/product/3251/useCareGuide.pdf

The LR code means "Locked Rotor". This could be due to:

1. The control board at the top of the unit has lost connection to the motor and its control board at the bottom. Check for loose connectors. Also try 're-seating' each connector by pulling it off and pushing it on two or three times.
2. The motor and/or control board at the bottom are shot.

The LR code means "Locked Rotor". This could be due to:

1. The control board at the top of the unit has lost connection to the motor and its control board at the bottom. Check for loose connectors. Also try 're-seating' each connector by pulling it off and pushing it on two or three times.
2. The motor and/or control board at the bottom are shot.

The transmission is shot.

The water valves are controlled by a solenoid. If water is merely dripping into the tub, then that valve is worn out and needs to be replaced. This problem is often caused by too high a pressure in the household water supply. It should be only abour 60 PSI. If it's "running" into the tub, then it's possible the solenoid is getting power when it shouldn't. In that case, suspect a faulty chinese control board.

The end of your drain hose is too low causing a siphon action. Your user's manual lists the minimum drain hose height for your model in the "Installation" section. Generally speaking, it should be at least as high as the top of the tub, or 3 ft.

Possible drainage problem, or control board failure. To check drain, disconnect the power cord from the receptacle, then remove drain hose from pump. Ensure there is no blockage in the pump nor in the hose. Reconnect hose and clamp. Reconnect power cord and check. If still no good, suspect failed chinese control board.

The washer is stuck in "pause" mode. You can try pressing the Start/Cancel button to see if that clears it. If not, try unplugging the washer for about 10 minutes to force a reset. If still no go, suspect problem with door latch/striker switch or failure of a cheap chinese control board. In fact, failure-prone chinese control boards are at the heart of virtually all premature failures of modern appliances. They usually only last just long enough to span the warranty period. There should be an electrical schematic diagram attached to the back of the unit. You may be able to use that to identify the faulty part. Don't be surprised if the replacement board costs alot more than it's size and simplicity might indicate.

Typically, that would be caused by failure of a cheap chinese control board. In fact, failure-prone chinese control boards are at the heart of virtually all premature failures of modern appliances. They usually only last just long enough to span the warranty period. There should be an electrical schematic diagram attached to the back of the unit. You may be able to use that to identify the faulty part. Don't be surprised if the replacement board costs alot more than it's size and simplicity might indicate.

bad inlet valve not allowing any water in? Does it do in on both hot and cold water wash? or bad water pressure switch saying it is full of water when it is not? thus it will not fill? does it go into wash manually? u can check these with a multi meter for continuity

Typically, that would be caused by failure of a cheap chinese control board. In fact, failure-prone chinese control boards are at the heart of virtually all premature failures of modern appliances. They usually only last just long enough to span the warranty period. There should be an electrical schematic diagram attached to the back of the unit. You may be able to use that to identify the faulty part. Don't be surprised if the replacement board costs alot more than it's size and simplicity might indicate.

Remove the agitator lid, then about 6 inches down there will be a 7/16 nut screw remove it then u can remove the upper portion of agitator, and then use a rope, wire and something to pry the bottom piece agitator up and remove it.

Typically, that would be caused by failure of a cheap chinese control board. In fact, failure-prone chinese control boards are at the heart of virtually all premature failures of modern appliances. They usually only last just long enough to span the warranty period. There should be an electrical schematic diagram attached to the back of the unit. You may be able to use that to identify the faulty part. Don't be surprised if the replacement board costs alot more than it's size and simplicity might indicate.

bad inlet valve maybe? try changing the hot and cold hoses opposite to each other and see what happnes? sometimes u can just clean the water inlet valve screens where the hoses connect? hardwater can plug a line quickly

Yup bad water inlet valve. u can try inter changing the hot and cold water and see what happens. But to chnage it out u have to remove the housing or body to get to it, not a very difficult job, u can also check the valve with a multi meter for continuity

oh yuk I hate those sorry but will depend on ur model and brand?