Hello Brian Watkins,
Not seriously able to BEGIN to help without
any MODEL NUMBER... any chance you could
REPOST your question... (comment or EDIT it in?? ).
I have not been doing any answers on this site
due to the MASSIVE SPAM and CYBER ATTACKS
but I thought is was time to TRY
One of my FAVORITE sites for VIDEO procedures...
Give it a look (still requires MODEL NUMBER).
Search Over 2 1 Million Appliance Parts
Unfortunately, the SY EF error can mean a problem with the electronic control board or the fan. Check your wiring. It's possible that the wiring harness isn't fully seated (at the fan in the freezer or the electronic control board) or one of the wires in the harness is broken. If those are okay and the problem persists, then a new control board is needed.
I wish that I had better news for you.
Cindy Wells
There are a number of reasons why this might be happening. You bets bet if to call a service guy out and let them take a look at it as some things require specialised equipment to troubleshoot.
The only access to the drain tube is from the inside which would mean removing the inner cabinet or liner - completely impractical and probably a waste of time as a collapsed drain tube is likely to be a sign the insulation is failing.
I expect you will find there will be at least one cold spot on the outer cabinet. A friend had the same trouble. In her case the top at the back was the worst offender and we extended the life by placing a 4" polystyrene block on the top. She mopped out the fridge daily.
I find a curtain wire is the most suitable for poking around in fridge drains.
Fridge/freezer freezing up- and no fan or air circulation:
first check the defrost terminator thermostat it may have gone out. Thus not allowing the heating element to melt the ice.
AT TIMES The fan usually stops working AND CAN MAKE FUNNY NOISES AS WELL due to ice obstruction when the defrost terminator has gone out and u get ice build up? u can check the terminator with a multi meter for continuity but do not check at room temperature. stick the terminator in cup of ice water for 20 minutes then check it for continuity, should be closed when cold and open at room temperature.
May also need to check the defrost timer, The defrost timer is usually found behind the front grill "toe kick" of the refrigerator. Or in the fridge compartment near middle top section.
u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad?
Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.
Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..
Another item to check with a meter is the heating element itself. Located under the evaporator coils. It should show continuity or resistance OHMS WHEN TESTED AT BOTH ENDS OF THE PRONGS .
Lastly check the cold control thermostat with a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit?
ALSO CHECK THE AIR FLOW VENT SYSTEM and THERMISTORS At times it can get stuck to far closed or open. Some units feature a digital electric adjusting vent system while others are manually set. Check for any ice build up or other obstruction in the vent damper, see if u can manually open or close it. Some times when u have the settings set to the highest it closes off one area while allowing to much cold air flow to the other area!
THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 1300 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required
Fridge Warm Defrost Thermostat Testing TroubleshootingRefrigerator Repair Frosting up in freezer not cooling Admiral RSCA207AAM
H1 means the refrigerator or freezer side is to warm
Are the controls set properly?
Is the rear wall of the freezer full of snow?
Is the outside edge of the refrigerator warm or hot to the touch?
Sounds like the defrost drain at the bottom of the freezer section is frozen over and clogged.
shut the refrigerator off, remove the food in the freezer
remove the shelves
remove the lower panel on the rear wall
at the bottom is the drain pan with a hole
my guess that it is full of ice?
use hot sink water and remove the ice
then use a turkey baster to clear the hole and the hose.
If the water still won't drain your going to have to manually clean the hose.
Unfortunately, there is no good way I can think of to know without actually replacing the board. I recently replaced fans on a modern fridge (GE) only to be left with the control board being the only likely remaining suspect. Many on the internet posted that they had to replace the board to fix their problems. However, my brother was tired of trying to fix the fridge, and he got rid of it instead.
Diane - Sorry I don't have a Frigidare but check out this site - I have heard of this but your error code could actually be 5b which is the best that they can do to show a Sabbath Day setting that the frig is designed with
Check and scroll down this website to get the description way down on the webpage:
https://removeandreplace.com/2015/08/12/frigidaire-refrigerator-error-codes/
