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M-Audio controller. How do I fix a loose sub port?
I just had the same issue. The temporary fix I used worked for 2 years. I just stuck a small paper clip or safety pin in the corner of the port, and then plug the cable in. If those are too big just use something you can use to make the plug fit tight.
It finally stopped worked a couple of weeks ago, so I just bought a new USB port at an electronic store for $1.50 and soldered it on. I had to buy flux which was $3.00.
$5 and an hour of time after squeezing 2 extra years with paper clips. Priceless.
Just make sure you have a cold beer to solder with. Sticking drinks in a freezer wrapped in a wetpaper towel for 15 minutes is like a reverse microwave for beer.
on Oct 09, 2017
I'm using an oxygen 49
There are several reasons why this could be happening, assuming it's Windows, not MAC.
-Check to make sure the OUT port isn't set. You only need IN for basic controller use.
- Make sure the channel your using is armed (button below Solo & Mute should be red) [this is the most likely problem]
Another problem is the USB power settings in Windows. The default is set to allow the Computer to monitor and turn off USB ports automatically to save power. But it doesn't turn them back on automatically. You'll want change these settings regardless to help reduce latency issues.
-Go to Device Manager> USB Controllers> double click & change power settings to OFF for all Root Hubs.
Here is a guide to help optimize Windows to lessen Latency, Dropouts and Clicks /Pops. It's for Studio One, but the settings are the same for Windows.
You might want to give Studio One a try. I've used everything and by far Studio One is the easiest with the least issues. The free version is better than most DAWS paid versions. It can definitely help eliminate a lot of the everyday headaches that come with using Abelton, Cubase, Protools and even FruityLoops (which is pretty gay anyway).
M-Audio is also notorious for USB hardware related issues. A lot of times I find it turns out to be a bad connection between the plug and keyboard port, which tends to wear after awhile. It can go unnoticed because it still fits tight enough to get power, but not enough to keep the board fully functional.
Hope this helps.
on Oct 09, 2017
Electronic circuit diagram for a bass collection bass guitar Japanese 1988
I understand your pain - was googling for similar, and came across this post, 5 years prior. My SGC Nanyo Bass Collection has just started to play silly beggars with the pots, and a bridge fault. Nowhere online seemed to have any details of the wiring, as the problem is, as you say, the fact that all of the tone and volume pots are based on a printed circuit board. If theres a nick or short on the board, its a pig to replace, and I really wouldn't like to have to wire any pots onto it. I'm currently looking at the options of ripping out the old electrics and wiring it from scratch myself. If you're still after answers, good luck!
PS - noted that none of the previous replies are relevant to this - mostly going on about the amps or a Fender guitar??!
3 hours ago
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