20 Most Recent Goodman GMS90703BXA Heater - Page 2 Questions & Answers

turn gas supply on....turn gas valve to pilot....press down and hold to allow gas to come through pilot tubing.....light the pilot right by the thermal couple, once lit hold valve down for about 60-90 secs...then release ur hand on the gas valve and turn the valve to on position............make sure the bloody tstat is turned off before doin anything other wise burners will fire up soon as you turn valve to on position

had similar problems with same furnace. I think the 3 blinks is high limit event. either way with the power off to the furnace remove the board from the 4 clips holding it on one at a time then turn it over and look at it you will be able to tell if the board is bad because it will appear scortched and the resin will be bubbled up where it went bad. replace board and you will be fine. went through 2 in 2 years all of a sudden they are being made by a different company from the original and the 1st replacement. now all is fine. Take a good picture of the board close up so you can reconnect all the wires properly. Friend of mine got it from a wholesaler for $55.00

Goodman Furnace Startup

By emergency mode I am assuming that you have a heat pump connected to the furnace. If so your heat pump is not functioning properly. For this I recommend a service man. To many possible problems in a heat pump to diagnos over the computer

How to Troubleshoot Gas Range Hot Surface Ignitors http://fixitnow.com/2004/09/appliance-repair-revelation.htm
------------------------------ How to Repair a gas furnace
http://home.howstuffworks.com/how-to-repair-gas-furnaces.htm/printable

Look around for some popped rollout switches on the furnace.
Try to figure out why the safety would pop out. The safetys are set to pop in case of air restriction or flame rollout from rusted burners.
some repair pix
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The electronic ignition system in a gas furnace is a modern development that allows more reliable performance than standing pilot furnaces, provides energy savings and contributes to better furnace efficiency (AFUE). With a standing pilot, found most commonly on older low efficiency furnaces (55% to 65% AFUE is not uncommon), a small gas flame is always burning and is known in the lexicon of American home repair as a "pilot light". The problem with this type of "analog" ignition is that it wastes energy by constantly burning gas and can sometimes be unreliable. These issues have led to the development of electronic ignition systems for mid to high efficiency furnaces that exceed the U.S. government's established minimum AFUE rating of 78%. The electronic ignition occurs typically in one of two ways:

Intermittent Pilot, or

Hot Surface Ignition The intermittent pilot system uses an electronically controlled high voltage electrical spark to ignite the gas pilot and then subsequently the main burners, when the thermostat calls for heat.
The hot surface ignition system uses an electronically controlled resistance heating element not unlike a light bulb filament (and shown in the photo above), to ignite the gas burner.
It is important to understand some of the other components of a modern furnace that you will encounter depending on the type of high efficiency furnace you have. Why? Because they can also come into play in repairing an electronic ignition furnace when it won't run properly. Let's take a quick review of the types of furnace designs and components found in high efficiency furnaces using electronic ignition.

from my experience with goodman units ,it could have been a gas supply problem there are so many protective sensors that i dont think it is the unit by the way is it electronic ignitor or pilot

Coil is separate from furnace. remove screws to door and use a coil cleaner in addition pour some bleach in the drain pan to keep water flowing to outside

This should help you, see this video: Amazon Furnace Parts: http://www.amazon.com/s/?_encoding=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&field-keywords=gas%20furnace%20parts&linkCode=ur2&tag=amznelite-20

Yes, check for obstructions. However, also check to ensure that you used an OEM pressure switch! See this video for an explanation: Amazon Furnace Parts: http://www.amazon.com/s/?_encoding=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&field-keywords=gas%20furnace%20parts&linkCode=ur2&tag=amznelite-20

See this related solution to your question in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tV1tmqmXlEU See Amazon for furnace parts: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0070P4N88/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0070P4N88&linkCode=as2&tag=amznelite-20

When unit come on you need to watch the flames that shooting in all should blue. If there is any red flame kick out that would trip the flame role out switch. If the is the case you need a need heat exchanger.

Turn off your power, remover both the upper and lower doors. You may have to disconnect some ''molex' plug connectors and you may have to remove some thermostat wires to gain access. If you remove any wires, WRITE them down as to what terminals they go back on. The molded plugs can only go on one way so don't be too concerned about their replacement UNLESS they are individual plastic plug ins for each wire. If so...WRITE down the location and proceed. There should be either 5/16" or 1/4" headed screws securing the blower assembly in place. The assembly itself is probably slid into position on sheet metal rails or into slots. When the proper two (usually) screws are removed, it will merely slide out the front of the furnace. Place it on the ground and look into the side of the assembly OPPOSITE of the motor. In there you will find a 5/16" square headed set screw. Remove that screw because it secures the blower wheel to the blower motor shaft. Clean rust, dirt and debris off the exposed shaft because that will inhibit the sliding of the shaft OUT of the wheels hub. Turn it over to the motor side up. There will be three bolts or scews securing the blower motor to the blower housing by means of a three legged 'spyder' mount. Remove them and work the motor and shaft OUT OF the blower wheel hub. You are now home free... the motor is removed. Reinstall in basically reverse of the removal procedure. Hopefully you have an IDENTICAL replacement, so there will be no wiring adaptions to figure out.

check continuity on hot surface igniter. no measurable ohms reading = bad igniter. also insure 120v getting to the igniter

check the air filter do you need the ducts cleaned out , check registers are not blocked ,

That seems to be the common practice. The low pressure created by the suction of the fan will draw air in from outside.

The pressure switch is located in the burner compartment. It is round with a rubber tube going from the inducer blower motor housing to the switch itself. When the furnace has a call for heat, the inducer motor will start. At this point, it pulls the pressure switch in, caused by the suction from the housing and rubber tube. If the switch is stuck closed, you then have a code and the heater will not work. One way to check if the switch is operating correctly is to pull the rubber hose from the housing but leave it connected to the switch. Blow and **** in on the hose and see if you can hear the switch opening and closing. It should make a clicking sound. If no clicking sound, the switch is faulty and needs replaced. Also, take a small piece of electrical wire and poke around inside the opening where the hose came off of, sometimes this can get clogged and causes the switch to stick open or closed. You could also have a malfunctioning control board which is more difficult to diagnose. Hope this helps!

Blow out the trap