I Googled my washer to look up some stuff i couldn't find for my own washer other than here and i did not see E08 as an error code in my manual or on any of the other websites but i did see F08 followed by E01 which was a water supply error:: and you have to check for proper water supply:: check the hoses and the faucets to be sure that the screens are not clogged and the hoses are not kinked to clear the code touch the power button once then touch the power button again to restart the washer if the code appears again the manual says to call for service to send out a service tech.
Leveling: Ensure the washer is properly leveled. An unbalanced load can trigger the UL (unbalanced load) code. Use a level to check if the machine is sitting evenly on the floor.
Load Distribution: Make sure the clothes are evenly distributed in the drum. An imbalanced load can cause the UL code to appear.
Calibration: Some models have a calibration mode that can be accessed through the control panel. Running a calibration cycle might help the washer to detect load balance more accurately.
Electronics: There could be an issue with the control board or wiring harness. Inspect these components for any visible damage or loose connections.
Professional Service: If none of the above steps resolve the issue, it may be time to consult with a professional appliance repair technician who can diagnose and fix the problem more accurately. They may have specialized tools and knowledge to pinpoint the exact cause of the UL code.
Ld is long drain, so either the pump is blocked, the pump impeller is worn or the drain hose is blocked.
I had a drain blockage on a Miele and it was cause by an apple stalk lodging itself across the ridges of the drain hose and had collected enough lint to block it, This was a machine that was washing towels commercially for 16 hours a day.
Unhook the drain and watch it pumping either into a bucket or into a laundry sink. It should fly out in a jet!
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If yours is a top loader it will mounted near the drum inside the machine. It will be a shaped block of concrete curved to sit close the actual drum. The most like places will be at the front, nearest you when your putting clothes in it, at about 3/4 of the way off the floor. It could also be in a similar place at the back of the machine.
Unfortunately, if you can't get to it, you need a new machine. Normally you would seal with silicone or epoxy putty. The only thing I can can think of is injecting polyurethane expanding foam into the area, but go easy it expands for 10 minutes and you would have to shield any moving parts.
Most parts are obsolete.
notify a repair company for quotes or online search for part ----fixya is an online repair forum we dont send repair personal out or sell manufacture or ship products
In the Maytag MHWZ400TQ01 washer model, the wire harnesses refer to the various electrical connectors and wiring throughout the machine. They connect the different components, such as the control board, motor, sensors, and other electrical parts.
To locate the wire harnesses and check them for any issues, you'll typically need to access the inner components of the washer. Here are some steps to follow:
Unplug the washer: Ensure the washer is disconnected from the power supply for safety.
Remove the top panel: Look for screws at the back of the washer holding the top panel in place. Remove these screws and slide the top panel backward or lift it up, depending on the model, to access the internal components.
Locate the wire harnesses: Once the top panel is removed, you should see various wire harnesses connected to different components. They are typically bundles of wires with connectors at the ends. These connectors plug into corresponding receptacles on the components.
Inspect the wire harnesses: Check each wire harness for any signs of damage, such as loose connections, frayed wires, or connectors not properly seated. Ensure all connections are secure and properly plugged in.
Repair or replace as needed: If you find any damaged wire harnesses, you may need to repair or replace them. Repairing involves fixing loose connections or re-crimping connectors. If a wire harness is severely damaged, it's best to replace it with a new one.
As for obtaining a diagram or parts list specific to your washer model, it's recommended to visit the Maytag website or contact their customer support. They can provide you with the necessary documentation or direct you to resources that can help you identify and locate the parts in your washer.
Remember to exercise caution when working with electrical components and ensure the washer is completely disconnected from the power supply before performing any inspections or repairs. If you're unsure or uncomfortable with these procedures, it's best to consult a qualified technician for assistance.
If the washer works with the water temperature set to warm or other setting different from what you normally use, something is wrong with the water fill solenoid valve for your usual setting (warm turns on both valves). A stuck or clogged valve would probably buzz, but a burned-out valve solenoid would be silent. The timer is waiting for a signal from the water level sensor switch, so if no water is coming in, it'll wait all day.
If that isn't it, check the terminals on the wires going to the lid switch for corrosion. Next, check the power switch (operated by pulling the knob out) at the controller/timer unit. (I assume that since you replaced the lid switch you know to unplug the machine before digging into it.) You'll want an ohmmeter to test continuity and contact resistance, or at least a continuity tester. Also check the power wiring where it goes between the washer and dryer sections.
The problems of buying 'Universal'. Some need the correct OEM part because of the mountings.
Google
Maytag (model number) parts
Those simple three words will find you suppliers and within their model page search 'water inlet valve'.
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