RCA D52W20 52" Rear Projection HDTV-Ready Television - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

it could indicate that the TV is in standby mode, waiting to be turned on. In this case, you should be able to turn on the TV by pressing the power button on the remote or on the TV itself. If the red light stays on even after attempting to turn on the TV, it could indicate a problem with the TV's power supply or circuitry. In this case, it's best to consult the TV's manual or contact LG customer support for assistance. Regarding the RCA D52W20 52" Rear Projection HDTV-Ready Television, if you're experiencing issues with this TV, it's best to provide more information about the specific problem you're encountering, such as error messages, distorted picture or sound, or issues with turning on or off. This information will help diagnose the problem and provide more targeted solutions.

I see this a lot at the shop. the front panel buttons have become damaged. The best coarse of action is to replace the front button circuit board assembly... **** there is a temporary fix until you get the part... remove the front panel and take button circuit board out...just use remote to control the tv. This is also a way to test to see if this is the problem.. if you remove the connector to the buttons and the problem goes away then the buttons are the problem. you get get this circuit board at union electronics. You have to get the extended model number off the back usually d52w20yx1 or yx2 or yx something...not to difficult a repair

Sounds like your power board has issues and needs repairing or replacing, if your tech savvy you can repair it but it might make more sense to order a new one, this board is known for issues in tvs like you have

sounds like dust collected on the internal parts which after enough time can cause it to stop working. either have tv repair specialists replace the mother board, or replace tv

• Debra try this to reset, do not use remote for this operation.
• With the TV powered on complete the following steps:
• Press and hold "Menu" button on the front of the TV
• Press and release the "Power" button on the front of the TV.
• Press and release the "Volume Down" button on the front of the TV.
• This should bring up the service menu.
• Using the buttons on the front of the TV, scroll down and select (Reset to Factory Defaults).

Check the attached links,instruction and guides, Good luck "I hope this helped you out, if so let me know by pressing the helpful button. Check out some of my other posts if you need more tips and info." Are You locked Out Questions Answers for RCA reset to factory settings Projection Televisions RCA D52W23 Troubleshooting Manual

Yes - it needs the special tuner to receive digital transmissions.

if it is the chassis im think it is you will have to take the back off looking at the chassis the very front right corner there is a board apporx. 6in. long 2,3 in wide look at the fuse if it's blown take the small board out make sure set is unplugged it just clips in around the edges with plastic clips there are a set of diodes toward the opposite end they make check shorted if so replace there is a part number on the side of the diodes call some shops or go to fry's online maybe







if it is not blown there are 2 wire cable that comes from that board all the way up to another board called the deflection but the easiest way to check it is your board at eye level to the right those wires go there also a brown and green or blue wire to the top left hand corner of that board check with a volt meter on D/C setting for 300 to 340 volts if you have those volteges you could have a problem on the deflection board

Just fixed it!!! Remove the back panel from the television, you will see a board where the input jacks are located. To the left you will notice a red power wire. Just up and to the right approx 7" or so you will see a [_] shaped metal shield surrounding a capacitor in the middle of it. The part # on the board is CP150. It is a green/gold 16v 2200uF capacitor. More than likely this capacitor is faulty. Run your finger over the top of the capacitor, if it is beveled rather than smooth you have a definite solution to your problem. You may need to remove the plastic piece that covers the transformer to the left of the capacitor to gain easy access. Good luck!!

Power supply failure. Now a boat anchor.

There are several possibilities. This model is based on CRT (picture tube) technology, and has a high voltage circuit. This circuit consists of three heavy wires, one from the side of each picture tube (red, green and blue) going to a single connection block. There is another heavy wire from this to the high voltage transformer on one of the circuit boards. First, unplug the set, and wait 20 minutes to make sure everything is cool and residual high voltage charge has drained away. Check the wires at the connection block to make sure they are not loose. There is usually some sort of retainer clip to lock the wires in place, make sure these are not broken or unlatched (sometimes they get brittle with heat and aging). Frequently these are covered with a thick layer of dust held on by electrostatic attraction; gently vacuum this off. If all looks good, plug in the set, and wait until it's dark outside. Turn on the set with the room lights off, and look at the high voltage parts. If you see a blue corona glow or sparking, that part has an insulation breakdown problem or a bad connection. It is normal to see an orange glow at the bottom of each picture tube, and you would also see the three colors of the picture coming out of the tops of the picture tube. WARNING: do not touch the interior of the set while it is on, especially not in the dark. Another probable cause is a cracked solder connection on the power/deflection board (the one with the high voltage transformer on it). If the flickering is one color rather than white or a momentary darkening, the problem is in one picture tube circuit (yellow -> blue dropout; ->cyan -> red dropout; magenta -> green dropout). The picture tube circuit includes not only the high voltage (second anode) section, but also the picture tube drive connection on the base of the tube all the way back to the video processor and switching circuits.

Have you taken the back off to see what is visible to you ? it could be a high voltage transformer or bad connections on the bottom of the SMPS deflection board being the board on the left looking in to the back of set. or a you should be able to see something burnt or a smell of the area some times helps to locate what you don't notice . but most likely the problem in on that circuit board .

Use the focus button.

Good Morning if you remove the signal either being HDMI or Av Cables from the source are the bars still there ? if they are id suspect a signal board problem . if there not try unplugging your signal source for 5 min's and then do a restart if problem still exists then contact your service provider for further assistance .

have you checked in your audio menu on the set to make sure the balance is not turned to one side . the next thing to check would be your input signal if your using av cables or HDMI port . if your using av cables try switching the red and white cable around and see if you have corrected your problem . if not then it starts to look as if its a TV problem you could ohm out the speakers there usually pretty tough but its not impossible to have one that failed . if the speakers check out ok then its going to be on the main board in the set and would require further trouble shooting to determine if the audio output iC has failed or where the problem is located on the board from a coupling cap to iC or associated components . but id check at the signal going in first and work my way back to isolate the problem .

The DVI cable was the early HDMI cable . all later sets have the HDMI port . when you had it hooked to a DVI source did you select that port with the remote ? if it did not function the port may be damaged . as to picture it should give you a HD quality picture that your cable box is broadcasting .

My sony did the same thing and worked fine after replacing the bulb. A pop sounds followed by a squeal is what I heard during and after the bulb blowing out. I hope this helps. And the red light flashed similarly.

you could have a bad flyback usually they will make a sort of a hiss as there is a short internal and even the after market replacement flybacks can be new and defective .. or loss of horizontal drive . also the two chemical ribbons that jumper over from the signal board to the smps /deflection board the white ribbon connectors can cause problems also if you have the black one's there probably alright . or a shorted crt could send it into a shutdown . there are a few things to check and it appears your on the right track you have changed the caps on the deflection pwr board . let me know how it goes please

Yes it has a stand by light and it is red . once the power on is started it checks the rest of the command lines from micro and starts the initialization process once all are satisfied it un mutes the picture . however it appears your fighting a one problem and possibly compounding the problems now .

FX transmitter If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/richard_b59056c0c62ecb00