20 Most Recent RCA HD61LPW42 61" Rear Projection HDTV Questions & Answers

http://www.riddledtv.com/forums/rca-tv-ite222-d61w20-chirps-3-times-no-power-t184.html

It's the light tunnel. The tunnel is a square tube made up of 4 mirrors glued together.

It looks like this from the side: |_| (with a piece on top too.)
When the glue breaks down, it shifts inside the little mirror holder. The shifted mirrors looks like this /_/ what you are seeing is the shadow of the tilted mirror tunnel.
ON the RCA's there's not a good fix.

RCA's response:
"Ok, well sadly they do not offer the light tunnel anymore, which is what you need. Sadly you would be rendered to get a whole new light engine assembly. That would be the D.N.D module, light tunnel,color wheel,optic spanner, and oci. mirror. Your best bet would be to search ebay for a broken engine and replace it that ways."

That is the ONLY response I got from them.

I took the set apart and found the 4 tiny mirrors. I will be attempting to epoxy them together. (The set is dead anyway, why not try?)

Ballast Board #261629 Ballast is what turns Lamp on, Also Check your Lamp Fan if it is defective Lamp will not Light!

Your cooling fan is dead get a new fan

if your tv has an hdmi conn, use that, if not, use a standard playstation to rca cord

I just had an issue with my rca hd61lpw42, I had replaced the lamp and got the same five blinks you described. I took out the ballast the smaller circuit board, its in front of the light and mounted to the front of the tv. To get to it you remove the back cover with the tv cooled down and unplugged of coarse. Be extremely careful when removing the ballast as it normally operates at about 336 volts dc. its basically no amps but it will still throw you across the living room. The being said I found another site that discussed our issue on the ballast going bad. It is not the whole board that is bad normally. There is a solder joint in the middle of the circuit board coming up off the bigger board and that solder joint normally goes bad and causes the issue. All I had to do was remove the board and resolder the connection and reinstall. But you can get them on ebay for $50. iif you have the money or no soldering experiance I would suggest that route. The site is http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p4712.m570.l1313&_nkw=%09+RCA+Ballast+Assembly+%28261629%29&_sacat=0Now I hope I can keep the light tunnel together :-)

RCA? does the power light/indicator come on and stay on?a general answer:I see so many here with no sound/nopicture issues:ISSUES: 1. IF sound main fuse/s are good.2. If no power or standby check main fuse, standby power supply and any signsof damage you can see---burnt parts etc.3. almost all these sets the troubleshooting involves checking voltages on the main power board to narrow down theproblem.4. Be safe and if you do not know what you are doing don't open the set.Answers to issues:1. RE:fuses---if a blown fuse is found get a good replacement(not the genericones like Radio Shack). Many fuses are special even aside from amperage--Don'tput a higher rated amperage fuse in the set for any reason.2. RE: power supply in set: if total dead aside from main fuse the set uses astandby power supply that runs 7/24 and a main supply (some are combined andsome not.Here aside from checking fuses you want to examine all the filter caps on thepower/standby to see if any are puffed up or buldged up in some fashion--Iattach a photo of a good one---top should be silver metal and PERFECTLY flatand have no brown material coming out on top or bottom.What happens in the standby area is they use caps with too low a voltage rating(saves money) which causes them to fail in a year or two---the standby runs7/24 and the heat dries out the caps and they fail.3. Trouble shooting consists of the above and then at some point you have tobuy and try a board to see if it fixes it or not.4. Safety first--no TV set is worth getting injured or even killed over.

Hello,

there is every possibility that the channel (ch - and ch +) button on the TV is stuck. This can make the TV channels change by itself. This also applies to the remote control (if any).

Turn off the TV, use your thumb to flip through the channel (ch - and ch +) button on the TV. This will free the stuck button. Also, check the channel (ch - and ch +) buttons on the remove and make sure it is also not stuck in.

If the above doesn't solve the problem, then it means fault is from the control board inside the TV. It maybe defective or needs servicing.

The board controls the buttons on the TV and it can be found on the position of the channel (ch - and ch +) inside the TV.

Note that TV stores a lot of current. So if you want to disassemble the TV to check the board allow the current to discharge by remove the TV plug from the wall and wait for about 1 hour before attempting to disassemble the TV.

Let me know if you need more assistance...

Regards.

Follow this steps:
1. Take the back panel off of your set, using your Phillips head screwdriver, to remove any screws. 2. Remove the projector lamp. You can reach the color wheel without doing it, but you are less likely to damage the projector lamp if you take it out. Loosen the screws at the base: depending on your DLP's brand, the screws may come out, or may just loosen. If they come out, set them in a safe place before removing the lamp. If not, just pull the entire lamp out, once the screws will not loosen further. 3. Take out the panel that is connected to the cable outlets, using the screwdriver to take out any screws. Pull the panel until the cables, attached from the inside, run out of slack.
4. Remove the screws at the bottom of the panel, in the center, and any screws connecting this panel to the outer case of your DLP. The number and location of these screws will vary depending on your DLP's brand.

3 Remove the projector lamp. You can reach the color wheel without doing it, but you are less likely to damage the projector lamp if you take it out. Loosen the screws at the base: depending on your DLP's brand, the screws may come out, or may just loosen. If they come out, set them in a safe place before removing the lamp. If not, just pull the entire lamp out, once the screws will not loosen further.

4 Take out the panel that is connected to the cable outlets, using the screwdriver to take out any screws. Pull the panel until the cables, attached from the inside, run out of slack.

5 Remove the screws at the bottom of the panel, in the center, and any screws connecting this panel to the outer case of your DLP. The number and location of these screws will vary depending on your DLP's brand.

6 Pull out the entire center unit, pulling gradually. Then, unplug the power cable from the main set (this is generally blue and brown). Remove the sensor switch and any cables joining the center unit to either side of the set.

7 Take out the plug from the cover of the color wheel. In most brands, it will have a black and blue wire connected to a green circuit board. Then, remove any cables coming out of the wheel. Depending on the brand, the screws may be small enough to require the jeweler's screwdriver.

8 Remove the screws holding the color wheel cover in place. Remove the cover, then take out the screws holding the wheel in place. If tape is holding the wheel, just pull on the wheel until it comes free.

9 Put the new wheel into the slot. You do not want to touch the wheel, or you will blemish it and leave impressions that will be visible when the light shines through it. Re-insert the screws. Then, replace the cover, making sure that the wire jacks are in the same places.

10 Reassemble the DLP television, then plug the set into the wall, and turn on the power.

Read more: How to Change a DLP Color Wheel ' eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_7697815_change-dlp-color-wheel.html#ixzz1VdDl2OQb

3 Remove the projector lamp. You can reach the color wheel without doing it, but you are less likely to damage the projector lamp if you take it out. Loosen the screws at the base: depending on your DLP's brand, the screws may come out, or may just loosen. If they come out, set them in a safe place before removing the lamp. If not, just pull the entire lamp out, once the screws will not loosen further.

4 Take out the panel that is connected to the cable outlets, using the screwdriver to take out any screws. Pull the panel until the cables, attached from the inside, run out of slack.

5 Remove the screws at the bottom of the panel, in the center, and any screws connecting this panel to the outer case of your DLP. The number and location of these screws will vary depending on your DLP's brand.

6 Pull out the entire center unit, pulling gradually. Then, unplug the power cable from the main set (this is generally blue and brown). Remove the sensor switch and any cables joining the center unit to either side of the set.

7 Take out the plug from the cover of the color wheel. In most brands, it will have a black and blue wire connected to a green circuit board. Then, remove any cables coming out of the wheel. Depending on the brand, the screws may be small enough to require the jeweler's screwdriver.

8 Remove the screws holding the color wheel cover in place. Remove the cover, then take out the screws holding the wheel in place. If tape is holding the wheel, just pull on the wheel until it comes free.

9 Put the new wheel into the slot. You do not want to touch the wheel, or you will blemish it and leave impressions that will be visible when the light shines through it. Re-insert the screws. Then, replace the cover, making sure that the wire jacks are in the same places.

10 Reassemble the DLP television, then plug the set into the wall, and turn on the power.

Read more: How to Change a DLP Color Wheel ' eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_7697815_change-dlp-color-wheel.html#ixzz1VdDl2OQb

I don't believe the mirrors are the problem. Your optical engine is bad and needs replaced. See my tip at http://www.fixya.com/support/r4251975-replace_dlp_light_engine for help with this problem.

Thanks for using FixYa and for the great rating.

hardrocko

Hello,
It's the problem of overheating in the power supply board of the TV.on the power supply board of the tv there are few capacitors and IC.any of this ic is got short or may be weak.so due to this when you start the TV the current passes from electric outlet to the power supply board of TV.but when the current passes from that weak/faulty part at that time current gets stopped or slow and the board overheats and TV shuts off. this is a common problem faced by many other users too.the possible option to solve this issue is to check the power supply board by a meter and continuity tester and replace the faulty component on the board which is short due to which power supply board is getting overheated.its bit technical job but yes its not at all a costly repair to do or get it done by the technician. for required parts it can be easily available from local electronic hardware shop.If otherwise power supply board is dead, u know basic electronics' and soldering? Most of the times, the power supply board just have dead leakages gases capacitors.These capacitors always bulges up on it top,or puff up on it top.Replaced these gases leakages capacitors will get your TV power stable,and work again.Or tries websites like Shopjimmy.com,Ebay.com to buy a whole refurbish power supply board for the replacement.
I hope this will help to solve the problem....