20 Most Recent Kenwood KAC-9152D Car Audio Amplifier - Page 4 Questions & Answers

loose ground? shortage? overheat? sounds to me personally that problem with subs or wire touching ground...so signaling for asmp to enter protect mode?

the output transistors called hexfets are shorted.
i used to be a rockford fosgate warranty depot

sound like you have a a bad spkr connect the spk one by one to amp and play the system and you will know and make sure the spk can handle the load from the amp too''

Connect the remote wire to an accessory wire on your stereo.

Your amp is blowing fuses to protect your circuit. The type of 12V battery does not matter. For whatever reason you are over driving the amp. 2 Ohms sounds like a very low impedance for a car amplifier output. I am assuming you have the two 12" speakers wired in parallel. Most are rated at 4 Ohms which means you are pulling twice the current with the 2 Ohm load. Also, the bigger the speaker, the bigger the magnet, the bigger the coil, the larger the inductance, the heavier the load. Make sure these speakers are matched with your amp. A small amp driving large speakers will shut down at high volumes. Try putting them in different channels. Good Luck.

Hello, The problem your having is in the power supply section. If you want it repaired I will repair it for you. I own my own business. I install car audio/video systems in cars, trucks,etc. I also do amplifire repair. I am the cheapest repair business you will find. If your interested send me an e-mail at [email protected] if you have'nt allready had it fixed. I'll repair it for $40 you pay shipping. I have a website if you wanna check out but it's not even close to being finished. I got rid of my old page and server and I'm just trying different backgrounds and layouts. I'm just upgrading everything cause we are moving to a bigger facility. Again let me know. Good luck Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/mark_b53a7494531bf96d

First of all if everything is wired right then your amp is defective. If you have The B+ wire from amp to the fuse block then to the positive battery post, Then if you have a good solid ground going to the amp, and you have 12 volts running to the remote on the amp when you turn the head unit on or a switch for the remote turn on, then you should have no problems.For one, I would test the voltage at the amp with car off and key off. Take the probes of the meter and touch them to the amps ground and positive terminals and check those readings. If ok turn key on and do the same thing, leave head unit off. If ok turn on head unit and test voltage at the positive and remote terminals using the amps ground. If you have any problems before the last test I said to do then thats where you should start to find the problem. Otherwise if the power drops it maybe a bad ground or else you'd start burning up fuses. Let me know what you found out or if you figured it out. I would like to know what it was. I own a car audio/video install business as well as amp repair. Send me a message so I can find out what it was please. Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/mark_b53a7494531bf96d

What do you mean the RCA cables are'nt grounded? All RCA cable have a ground. What kind are you using? The round metal at the end of the RCA cable is the ground. The silver or outside of the line input on the amp is the ground for the RCA cables. Anyway, that would'nt stop your amp from coming on. I suggest you take a piece of wire and ground it to the amp and touch the metal piece on the RCA cable and see if you get sound. Even if the RCA cable is'nt grounded you would get some type of sound coming out of the amp maybe. If you do it will sound like it's cominf thru a long tunnel, like a reverb effect. I have never heard of an RCA cable not having a ground. ARE you sure you have RCA cables? Let me know and send me a pic if you can of the input of the amp so I can see how you have it hooked up. Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/mark_b53a7494531bf96d

Try checking the fuse. If no fuse then you probably have some power supply problem. Be sure the ground is well connected to the car also. If all that is fine it sounds like there are some shorted power trasistors. I do amp repair faor a living also I'm the cheapest business youll find. Let me know what you find out. Try disconecting your speakers. Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/mark_b53a7494531bf96d

I had a kenwood amp that did almost the same thing. Try checking you zener diodes. I found 2 bad ones and replaced them and amp works fine ever since. If your not to good at diagnosing, I have my own business installing car audio/video products as well as amp repairs. I gaet amps from all ove the place. If interested send me a message, I'll be glad to help. One more thing, I'm the cheapest person in amp repair. Good luck Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/mark_b53a7494531bf96d

only using one of the channels for audio and having the rest of the amp wired up as normal should work fine. for example just use the right channel and leave the left unwired.

If 12V is present
contact Kenwood repair for estimate of repair

Does it have a antenna connector to turn it on. this sometimes is a blue wire that comes from the radio. This normally turns the amp on when the radio is turned on. you should have a power (red) ground (green or black) and a power control wire they are right next to each other on the amp

either bad ohm load or over heat if the ohs on the speaker wires to the amp are lower than specified use in the manual it will act funny cause it is pusing harder than its meant to and if it gets too hot either bad location or bad amp you can try turning the gain down a little until the amp stays on constantly at high volume

Check the fuses-should be a pair of 30 amps on the side. use a paper clip and jump power from the power+ to the remote+ and see if that lights it up-if it does than your remote lead isnt giving it juice-

Sounds like its going into protect mode-try disconnecting the speakers from the amp entirely and turn the system on if it stays lit up- then ya know its the speakers (one of them at least) thats making your amp shut itself down. If thats the case look into replacing the speaker thats causing the problem.Also make sure that you have sufficient wiring to your amp - at least 8 gauge if you can. check all terminals /power/ground make sure everythings connected tight and not grounding out anywhere

I agree with the last answer- your amp has built in fuses that should be rated at 30 amperes each which should be sufficient as the amp only pulls 60 amperes at full power-however you may want to upgrade your power /ground wires to a good 4 gauge set if you dont already have it set up like that-throw an 80-100 amp fuse up front by the battery in case your running another amp for mids and highs just to cover the current draw of the amps combined. If the amp is still blowing fuses after that check to make sure that your subs are wired to no lower than a 2 ohm load as the amp is only stable to 2 ohms.

Hi there. It should definately be the far right and far left, no doubt. Ther should also be a awitch to drop the frequency to about 80htz. If not, the amp should drop the frequency by just connecting it the way you wanted to