20 Most Recent Xerox Phaser 8200 Laser Printer - Page 6 Questions & Answers

ckeck out if ant powder leaked from the toner at some particular area of the roller from where the paper moves.that powder must be stuck up there so the mark at same place in all the copies.b;low air in the printer for sometime in all the areas the dust gets cleaned.

The drum heaters are out. They are 2, 150 watt halogen lamps that go bad.
That is exactly your problem. I can tell you how to replace them. Not real difficult, takes an hour to an hour and a half.

The yellow ink sticks are jammed.
Open the ink loader and ensure that the yellow ink sticks are able to slide in the ink loading chute. Remove any broken of partial ink sticks.

Somehow your question was posted twice, I am just responding to remove this message from the queue

Drum heater lamps are out. They are 2,,,, 150 watt halogen bulbs that you can purchase anywhere they sell light bulbs. The way you can tell if they are bad is turn off the lights in the office or room the printer is in. Turn the printer on and look inside the right side fan exaust vent. You should see a glow inside the machine if they are working, I doubt you will see anything. One or both have burnt out, replace both to repair it.
To skip the if you want to I will send you instructions, I will send them now.
First of all you will need Torx bits or drivers to remove the covers etc. I think mostly you will need a number 10 and 15 size.
First off you want to remove both side covers, there is one screw on the top back of the covers, and another on both covers, top front, you have to open the front paper path door to access the front screws. Then about the middle of the covers pull up and outward, they will kind of pop off, but thats fine, they have tabs on the bottom that can be pesky.
Remove the paper tray, the green maintenance tray and set aside.
Now remove the 2 green rails that the maintenance kit rides on. They both are held in by one screw. It will take some manupilating to get them out, but basically you push them sliightly back, inward and twist slightly until they come out. TAKE NOTE of how the leaf springs are on the rails, A hint when putting them back in, is to take some scotch tape and tape them on the side to keep them in place, You will see what I mean when you remove them. But its much easier to get the rails back in when those springs are taped to the side. And no worry about removing the tape afterward, I will have no affect on the machine if its left in.
Next, you look up and you will see a stainless steel curved plate. About 10 inches long and 3 inches high. There are 2 screws on the top of it that must be removed. There are 2 tabs on bottom, Once the screws are removed it just lifts out.
Now about midway up the paper path is the registration rollers. First, you have to go, ( looking from the front of the machine) to the left side of the machine, You will see a electromech clutch on a shaft with a 2 inch black gear with a belt attached. Remove the clip that holds the clutch on, slide off the gear and just let the belt drop in place.
Now, return to the front,The assembly is stainless steel, you will see a couple of rollers on it and some paper path actuators. There is one screw on the right side of that assembly that you need to remove, and on the left side, just by the bearing there is an "E" clip holding the bearing against the frame. remove the screw and the clip, Then move that transport CAREFULLY to the left and out. Be very careful to keep the 2 pieces together, there is a switch actuator that can be easily broken. So please take caution. On the right side, there will be a bearing that WILL fall out, and drop down into the paper feed area. Trust me it will do that. Just locate it and pick it up. When replacing that transport. I suggest, ( unless your considering suicide LOL) Put some white out or a little glue on the outside of that bearing when you press it back into the frame. Otherwise, IT WILL keep falling out and really try your patience. Just trust me on that one.
Now, look in the front , just above where the maintenance tray would go. You will see 2 screws, about 10 inches apart, They will be surounded by a beige/brownish plastic. Remove those 2 screws, they hold in the heater assembly you want to repair. When you remove those screws it will not yet come out, wiggle it a bit and look on the right side so you can easily determine the conectors, plugs you need to remove. Some have 1 some have 2.
Once you do that, slide that heater assembly downward and out. You will see the 2 lamps in there.
Take those little spring metal clips out,, replace BOTH lamps. Use some emery cloth to clean the contacts. Clean the reflector behind those lamps before replacing . That will make the heat transfer more efficient.
Once those are in , in reverse order reassamble. Just be cautious replacing that registration assembly so you dont break the black actuator.
It's really not hard, just takes some time. Give yourself an hour to an hour and a half. But that is your problem I guarantee it.

One of the halogen lamps that heats the drum has gone bad.
You can tell by shutting the machine off, and easiest if you turn the office or room lights off.
Once you shut the machine down, on the right side cover,( looking from the front its the right) there is a vented area, some rectangular slots where the exhaust fan blows outward. As you power on the machine look into the machine via those slots. In a 1-2 minutes you should see a pretty decent glow inside the machine, IF those lamps are working, I very seriously doubt you will see any light inside the machine. If you don't, you know one or both of the lamps are bad.
They are simply 120 volt , 150 watt halogen lamps, The 4 inch length lamps. They can be purchased at any Lowes, Home Depot etc. If you want to try replacing those yourself let me know and post me your E-mail address and I will send you the directions. Should cost you less than $20 to fix. Xerox will want about $250 to just show up and close to another $300 for the heater assembly which you DO NOT need.

Yeah. What most likely has happened is that the switch actuator in the registration transport you removed snapped. It is on that metal transport you remove on the upper part of the machine.
The actuator is located on the left side of that transport. It has a black plastic shaft on it about 6 or so inches long. The actuator sticks up through an opening . There is a flag that is about a half an inch high and maybe 1/4 of an inch deep that has snapped off. That is the most likely cause.
OTHER things to look at are this. 1 Did you remember to plug the electromechanical clutch back in? 2, Did you get the clutch mounted correctly, there is a fork on the clutch that has to be slipped through a metal tab to be sure the clutch does not spin when it is engaged. # Did you get the black drive belt back on behind the clutch?
Before removing that transoort again and seeing if that actuator is broken, remove the left side cover and see if any of the issues with the clutch are the problem. Then look at the actuator.

There are 2 -150 watt halogen lamps in the machine that heat the drum. One or both are blown out.
Turn the lights off in the room with the printer then turn the printer on. Look on the right side cover, you will see an exaust fan vent, look in there and after a minute or 2 see if you see lamps gloging inside the machine,( I seriously doubt you will). If not, those are bad. They are not real hard to replace, just take some time and patience to do.
Let me know if you want to try it.
They should cost less than 15 dollars at Lowes, home depot, or anywhere that sells halogen lamps.

There is a set of 2 Halogen lamps in the machine that heat up the drum. They are 150 watt halogens, one or both have burned out.
The way you determine it is turn the lights out in the room the machine is in and then turn on the printer. Look on the right side of the printer, there is an exaust fan vent there. Look inside for lamps glowing, I very seriously doubt they will be glowing. If not the lamps are bad, When one goes out neither will work.
If you want to attempt replacing those, let me know I can forward you some instructions.

First of all you will need Torx bits or drivers to remove the covers etc. I think mostly you will need a number 10 and 15 size.
First off you want to remove both side covers, there is one screw on the top back of the covers, and another on both covers, top front, you have to open the front paper path door to access the front screws. Then about the middle of the covers pull up and outward, they will kind of pop off, but thats fine, they have tabs on the bottom that can be pesky.
Remove the paper tray, the green maintenance tray and set aside.
Now remove the 2 green rails that the maintenance kit rides on. They both are held in by one screw. It will take some manupilating to get them out, but basically you push them sliightly back, inward and twist slightly until they come out. TAKE NOTE of how the leaf springs are on the rails, A hint when putting them back in, is to take some scotch tape and tape them on the side to keep them in place, You will see what I mean when you remove them. But its much easier to get the rails back in when those springs are taped to the side. And no worry about removing the tape afterward, I will have no affect on the machine if its left in.
Next, you look up and you will see a stainless steel curved plate. About 10 inches long and 3 inches high. There are 2 screws on the top of it that must be removed. There are 2 tabs on bottom, Once the screws are removed it just lifts out.
Now about midway up the paper path is the registration rollers. First, you have to go, ( looking from the front of the machine) to the left side of the machine, You will see a electromech clutch on a shaft with a 2 inch black gear with a belt attached. Remove the clip that holds the clutch on, slide off the gear and just let the belt drop in place.
Now, return to the front,The assembly is stainless steel, you will see a couple of rollers on it and some paper path actuators. There is one screw on the right side of that assembly that you need to remove, and on the left side, just by the bearing there is an "E" clip holding the bearing against the frame. remove the screw and the clip, Then move that transport CAREFULLY to the left and out. Be very careful to keep the 2 pieces together, there is a switch actuator that can be easily broken. So please take caution. On the right side, there will be a bearing that WILL fall out, and drop down into the paper feed area. Trust me it will do that. Just locate it and pick it up. When replacing that transport. I suggest, ( unless your considering suicide LOL) Put some white out or a little glue on the outside of that bearing when you press it back into the frame. Otherwise, IT WILL keep falling out and really try your patience. Just trust me on that one.
Now, look in the front , just above where the maintenance tray would go. You will see 2 screws, about 10 inches apart, They will be surounded by a beige/brownish plastic. Remove those 2 screws, they hold in the heater assembly you want to repair. When you remove those screws it will not yet come out, wiggle it a bit and look on the right side so you can easily determine the conectors, plugs you need to remove. Some have 1 some have 2.
Once you do that, slide that heater assembly downward and out. You will see the 2 lamps in there.
Take those little spring metal clips out,, replace BOTH lamps. Use some emery cloth to clean the contacts. Clean the reflector behind those lamps before replacing . That will make the heat transfer more efficient.
Once those are in , in reverse order reassamble. Just be cautious replacing that registration assembly so you dont break the black actuator.
It's really not hard, just takes some time. Give yourself an hour to an hour and a half. But that is your problem I guarantee it.

That normally is a print head issue and replacing the print head is the only resolution I have had that resolves that problem. Sometimes the red will be almost maroon, other times it will be orange.
But is should normally be a pure red.

Are you referring to the upper roller in the front of the machine ? Under the stainless steel assembly? If so, it is very likely you snapped the black actuator in the registration assembly. You have to order then entire assembly to repair it.
Believe me, it happens, Oh yeah, it happens, its easy to break without realizing you have.

I think this link will be helpful to you

http://www.fixya.com/support/t1031288-xerox_phaser_8200_error_code

Solution by tryit expert will work

Thanks for using Fixya

it is my pleasure. I am glad you sent me a seperate post outside of the other one.
I really am trying to help, and i could care less about the payment thing they have going.
of all of the answers i have been providing, I think this is the only "premium" one, and only because I honestly thought I might be able to give you some insight.

Had I seen this post from you a few minutes ago, I would have put my latest suggestions to you here.

Please really read and digest my last post that I just sent.

I am looking at this whole situation from a technical point of view, NOT a xerox phaser point of view.

At this point something that "shouldn't be wrong" is wrong. I am a Senior CE for my company. I have taught Lexmark and Dell training classes, and I still am called in to fix things after others get stuck. ( but i still make mistakes sometimes too... lol ). But one of the reasons I am successful is because i am like Fox Mulder... lol, the truth is out there and it may not be what you think it is :)

Two weeks ago I fixed a Lexmark Printer at Patrick AFB after one of our other techs got stuck on it. He had already changed a bunch of parts, and ordered a few more.

20 minutes after I got there I had the unit repaired and tested with no parts used.

the problem... they were getting a constant paper jam, and the had to tape the side door closed or the interlock kept saying the door was open.

the solution.... I took the printer off of the table it was sitting on ( which was just a tiny bit too small ) and set it on the floor which was perfectly level.

reason... the printer was actually being bowed, just enough that the door interlock was not closing. The table was just a hair to small, and at one point sitting back just a little more then when the problem arose. someone probably bumped into the printer and shifted it on the table enough that the weight of the printer itself was causing this bow effect.

Anyway.. enough rambling for now. I guess I just want you to know i am offering up some ideas to try to stimulate positive troubleshooting, and know it isnt just to try to earn a buck.

Does it diaplay a fault code? It may take 20-30 minutes to display. I suspect if you leave it on long enough it will come up with a 15,004.xxx code.
I suspect you have bad drum heaters, but please leave it on for an extended period of time and see what fault code comes up.
Thanks.

SOund more to me like you have worn out feed wheels. They are slipping when trying to feed, therefore you get a paper jam indication, but no paper has been fed. Check the feed roller texture. If it is slick replace the roller.
I will state that first. You could have a sticking sensor, but that is less likely if you say it feeds paper.
The second most likely problem is the paper feed or paper registration clutch failing. Those are electromechanical clutches that are located on the loerf front section of the frame. You would need to remove the left side cover ( looking from the front). The clutches are round and silver, about an inch and a half thick with black gears on them. If the clutch faces are slipping, the rolllers will not drive and result in a jam.
The more I think about what your describing, the more I believe one of your clutches is bad.

Yep. The drum heaters are burnt out.
There are 2,,, 150 watt Halogen lamps that heat the drum.
The way to see if they are working or not is to turn off the lights in the office or room the printer is in. Turn the machine on and look through the fan slots on the right side of the machine. GIve it a minute or two and you should see lamps glowing inside, ( I seriously doubt you will see them comming on).
That is a very common problem, You can purchase those lamps at Lowes, Home Depot or anywhere you can purchase halogen lamps. They cost about 12 dollars for a good pair.
Replace both .. If you want to try and do it yourself. Let me know I will send you directions.

I understand your issue now, but as a tech we have to go through certain steps to assure the problem is be isolated to the obvious fault. I do not wish to insult or make this harder, but with all of these yahoos going to the silly websites and trying to decifer their answers from forums makes it hard, because we do not eliminate rthe issues in the order necessary. I would love to help you and have great success reparing these, but I cannot go back and check each post from other people and that will only serve to frustrate you. Let me know if you want to move forward and I will go to the next step, which is pull off the side panels. This way you can access the interior gearing and x-axis.

Are you asking about a Phaser printer. Like a Phaser 8200, 860 ?? Just want to be clear on what info I am sending. But I would be glad to send you the directions.