20 Most Recent Canon EOS Rebel K2 35mm SLR Camera Questions & Answers

You may request a free copy of the manual here. You'll have to email the webmaster and specify the Canon Rebel 2K manual. The webmaster also requests a contribution, but that is optional.

It's probably too dark and the flash isn't powerful enough to assist the focus mechanism on far away objects (more than 10-15 feet).

If you will need to switch to manual focus and maybe manual exposure.

the shutter speed and the aperture are on the top of the lcd screen. y sorry by the image, but i take it with a cell phone

hello, maybe, you have the contacts of your lens or your camera with dust.
this make what the camera works wrong,

you have to clean the contacts of your camera an lens with a Rubber to erase, and the camera must be ok

Hi!

I couldn't find installation instructions for your specific camera model, but I've found this... I'm quite sure that the process in your case will be similar to the one belongs to the other EOS models!

In case of a problem or clarification or my solution was insufficient, don't hesitate to post me a reply before rejecting my answer.
If you are satisfied, rate my solution with the "thumbs" or (even better) add a testimonial.

Good luck & best regards,
Pelu.

Make sure the camera is finished with all the pictures and it has full rewound into the canister. This camera counts down so if it's showing a number in the finder then there is pictures left to take. If you don't want these frame put the lens cap on shift to manual focus and manual mode turn the camera on and release the shutter until the pictures are all finished. it will then auto load the canister and you can release the back with the little leaver on the back left side of the camera. Here is a diagram and loading instructions.

If the camera was working correctly before the old batteries ran out of power I'd suspect that the replacement batteries were installed incorrectly. The battery door/lid will show the correct way to install the new batteries.

Assuming the camera powers up normally and there is no low battery warning, then you have a faulty shutter assembly. As your camera was originally only designed to last a maximum of five years it's done pretty well.

If so, there is absolutely nothing you can do as the only fix is a new shutter assembly and spares are hard to obtain now. This is a professional repair only and it will be far cheaper to just replace your camera body. 35mm EOS 500/Rebel bodies are almost ten a penny these days as are the comparable Nikons of the same era. You can take a gamble on buying one, but I've never paid for a single one: all mine have come from my local FreeCycle/Freegle groups. They're all virtually worthless precisely because they have a lot which can go unrepairably wrong and because they almost always need the investment of fresh batteries and a couple of processed rolls of film to check that they actually work properly.

Sorry that your camera looks to be bound for the recycling box, but at least I hope that I've given you some realistic low cost ways around the problem. Please take a moment to rate my reply.

if the film drive cogs are all ok then its the film advance drive gears on the motor drive striped or slipping,,you could test this by opening the camera and genteelly holding the film advance cogs with your finger and pressing the shutter if the film advance cogs stop turning then the drive gears are slipping or striped? this could be caused by the after load censer in the camera not censing the end of film roll and trying to get another frame out of it? like it read a 24ex as a 36ex but the censor faled to stop the motor drive winding on and that striped the gears

Not really, no. Assuming you've already tried the obvious of new batteries and checking that the battery and camera contacts are clean then there's nothing more you can do.

Diagnosing any completely dead electronic device is difficult, time-consuming and needs specialised test equipment. If you had the skills and equipment you clearly wouldn't be asking here so that leaves you just the professional repair option, but any professional repair will be uneconomic given that 35mm Canon Rebel/EOS triple digit models are worthless these days.

It's not all doom and gloom though, because they are worthless it also means they're relatively easy to get for free from places like FreeCycle and Freegle or even just by asking friends and neighbours. As all surviving 35mm Rebels/triple digit units are long past their maximum design lifespan you'll probably find that many are faulty, but I've been lucky so far and the only faulty one I've had was just a broken zoom lens.

Have you tried taking just one more pic to see if that triggers the rewind? If that didn't work, most film cameras have a rewind button. Usually on the bottom of camera. If you still can't get your film to rewind, take camera to your nearest photo finisher. They should have a dark box; they can remove your film manually.

That's entirely correct and normal, but the battery drain caused by the film counter is absolutely insignificant: think how long digital watch batteries last and they have far less power than your camera battery.

If the battery drains rapidly when the camera is not being used then there is something else causing the problem. Make sure that the camera is kept with a lens cap on when stored and not in use and consider removing the battery, although doing so for extended periods means that the camera will lose it's memory.

Dirty contact in the battery compartment, bad power circuit, bad switch etc. Too many things to be able to fix in this forum. Send it in for service or buy another used one, that may cost a lot less than getting yours repaired.

Check the manual or download one online.
If the battery symbol is flashing it means not enough power in batt to operate camera. Put in a new battery, being sure to insert it correctly. Get a spare battery too.

I had same problem and found the hinge/bearing for the flash corroded, probably due to sea spray. Remove side arms on flash which limit the amount of travel BUT ENSURE YOU NOTE WHICH GOES ON WHICH SIDE AND WHICH WAY UP! (Not doing that cost me an afternoon of trial and error!) Remove the three screws (two short one long) which hold the cover on the flash and remove the cover (toward the front). Now you can ease out the bearing but not remove it totally because the flash wires go through it. (right hand side viewed from the front). Clean it (Iso-Propyl alcohol and cotton bud) then reassemble and check flash is VERY free to move. Note side arm screws have a shoulder on which the arms can swivel ensure they are correctly located or the flash will seize up when you tighten the screws. Good luck, do post if this works for you so others will know.

Yes it does. Check your manual. If you don't have a manual you can get a pdf download from canon. This link should get you there. http://www.usa.canon.com/consumer/controller?act=ModelInfoAct&tabact=SupportDetailTabAct&fcategoryid=214&modelid=9429#DownloadDetailAct

cudgegong said in another forum:

To resolve the annoying "change the batteries" problem. Goto menu, choose yellow menu, select
file No. reset to ON. Turn camera off and back on.

Voila fixed.

Your camera has a faulty shutter or shutter timer.

Given that you can buy a perfectly good Rebel S for anywhere between £1 to £25 on Ebay it's not economical to repair it.

The DC-DC converter which distributes the internal voltages within the camera could be at fault. Check to see if any of the pins in the CF card media bay are bent over, if so, this is the cause of the power supply failure. Good Luck Joe Weibel customelectronics.org