20 Most Recent Nikon FM10 35mm SLR Camera - Page 6 Questions & Answers

Follow the illustrated instructions beginning on page 20 of the manual.

Unless the camera body is faulty (very common, the camera is long past its design life)then the FEE error occurs when you mount a lens which has a separate aperture ring (i.e.any non-G lens) and fail to set the aperture to it's smallest (highest number) setting.

As you haven't given any specific details regarding exactly how your camera is jamming then the only answer is that your camera needs a professional strip down and clean.

If you're lucky then the jam is simply due to the camera being old and gummed-up due to dried-out lubricant films, but it could also be due to parts failing due to wear and tear.

The F3 is definitely not suited to DIY repairs, and a freshly-serviced and functional F3 should be good for many more years of service. There are also plenty of them about, so repairers are familiar with them and will usually have a stock of new and used spare parts.

The only thing you can try is to see whether the jamming occurs with just one particular lens. If so then it's the lens which needs servicing/replacement rather than the camera, but a preventative CLA (Clean, Lubricate, Adjust) service on the F3 would still be advisable as they were intended to be regularly serviced. If the camera has its original foam light seals and mirror buffer then they will also be either decayed into sticky corrosive black goo by now or have gone further and dried-out and crumbled away. A routine CLA will usually include seal and buffer replacement as a one-off additional cost and as modern materials do not decay it should never need doing again.

I don't know this model but you can try this.Drop the film canister in and pull the film strip out and place on the film advance sprocket.Rotate the sprocket by hand/thumb until film is seated (1 turn). If the auto feed is working you will be OK. 2 other things ,1 of course load film in dark area, 2 check the batteries on the camera first, if they are week your film advance wont work ,Good Luck.

I'm not aware of any reason this should be an issue. The only time lenses should not be removed is during an exposure, any other time should be safe - power on or not.

Remove the lense, or the film if you're willing to waste it, and check to be sure the shutter blades aren't damaged. It'll be fairly evident if they are. If they are, the camera is pretty much now a paperweight. I hate to tell you that - but shutter replacements are VERY expensive and parts for most of these models no longer available from Nikon.

If that is not the issue, set the mode dial to M and try to take a shot. If that also doesn't work, either the batteries are exhausted or there is an internal issue in the camera. At this point, try new batteries. If that also gets you nowhere, you'll need to seek a reputable service tech, either through Nikon directly, locally if you can find one, or online/mail-order. If you have to go mail-order/online I'd recommend KEH Camera out of Atlanta, GA. They are very reasonable, have decent turn around, and do good work - but expect at least 1 month without your camera.

In M(anual) mode, be sure the lense is also set to M, via the switch on the front of the camera near the lense mount. You're not worrying about the quality of the image, only if the camera will take one. In manual mode, the light meter and other functions will have NO bearing on anything the camera does or doesn't do. At this point the meter reads out only for your information for you to set the settings yourself. The batteries do everything else - firing the shutter, driving the motor, etc.

Is it a power wind, or manual? Please clarify.

can you give me the specific model of the camera also how long have you owned it. First thing is to make sure there is no lens cap. A lot of times when all you get is a black picture it is a sign of a failed imaging sensor/CCD. This can be an expensive fix. If that is the case you would want to contact the manufacturer and/or some independent repair facilities and get estimates as to the cost of the repair. If you have any other questions please let me know.
Thank you,
Lee

Apparently you have a Nikon FM, serial number 2523207. You can check it against the manual available at
http://butkus.org/chinon/nikon/nikon_fm/nikon_fm.htm

google it

If the red light is steady on the minus sign even if you vary shutter and aperture settings and point the camera at different light exposures, then this is a metering problem. If the red light on the minus sign turns off when you have correct or over exposure, then it would mean your indicator lights for o and + are busted. Have your metering checked by a competent camera technician. In any case, since your camera is fully manual, you can use the 'sunny 16' rule and still shoot away.

http://butkus.org/chinon/nikon/nikon_f5/nikon_f5.htm

The Nikon F2 for me is the best mechanical film camera ever produced. The only electrical or battery- dependent part is its metering. Meaning to say, even without batteries, the F2 should work and take pictures on all shutter speeds. Most probably, the F2 that you bought has a non-working photomic meter finder due to a defective ring resistor, a part that is usually the first thing that would fail on this camera. What, then, are your options? One, have the meter fixed by a competent manual camera technician. Two, buy a working Photomic finder and replace what you have. Three, buy or use a handheld meter. Four (the least expensive), use the sunny 16 rule. As added reference, here's a link that might help enlighten you more about how the F2 metering works: http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonf2/prisms/dp11/index.htm

Cameras are a "use it or lose it" device, especially old ones like your N65.

It's most likely that the internal lubricant films have dried out and gummed up due to lack of use. On older mechanically operated models it's sometimes possible to free things off by leaving the camera in a very warm place for a good few hours and then gently forcing the controls against the softened grease or even by banging the camera against a firm surface. You have almost none of those options on the N65: it's an autofocus model with electronic controls, and the all plastic construction won't stand up to abuse. The only thing you can try is to leave it in a warm place and then try turning it on.

Camera servicing could solve the problem, but your camera is a consumer grade model designed for a five to six year maximum lifespan and was never intended to be serviced. The cost of servicing far exceeds the residual value of your N65 body (just a few dollars).

If you cannot get your camera working then it's time to bid it farewell. The good news is that the worthlessness of many 35mm SLR bodies (and many lenses) makes them easy to obtain for free/cheap. I've had dozens of them over the last few years from friends, neighbours and relatives just by asking and most of them have come from total strangers via my local FreeCycle and Freegle groups. On one day alone last year I picked up a boxed and virtually unused F75 (N75 in USA) with the 28-100mm kit lens and a freshly serviced Nikon N8008 with a Sigma 24mm AF and a Nikkor 300mm. Everything worked perfectly once i replaced the batteries. A week later I collected an Olympus OM1n kit for free and was offered an Olympus Pen FT plus lenses for just £10 (worth well over £200). None of this is intended as a boast, it's just to illustrate that you can get superb and possibly upgrade quality replacements for just the cost of fuel mileage and a set of batteries.

Good luck, I hope you manage to use this information to fix your camera, or at least are able to use the information to help decide whether to replace it with another.

The battery compartment is inside the mirror box, on the lower side. To change the battery, remove the lens, lock up the mirror, then push the lid to the left and lift it up.

You can download a copy of the manual from
http://butkus.org/chinon/nikon/nikkormat_el/nikkormat_el.htm

You can download a copy of the manual from
http://butkus.org/chinon/nikon/nikon_n2020af/nikon_n2020af.htm
and print it out yourself. It's a scan of the original paper manual so it's not as crisp as a pure digital manual would be, but considering the age of the camera...

You can download the manual from
http://support.nikonusa.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/16910/session/L2F2LzEvdGltZS8xMjk0ODU5OTY2L3NpZC9KOUVNX1Vqaw%3D%3D

If that link doesn't work, try
http://support.nikontech.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/13948

Try putting it the other end first, it needs go in with the contacts in first.

Hello,
You did not mention the version of the camera..I looked just the body for you..
Anyway,if it is a Nikon FM2/T FM-2 TITAN version it is about 700 USD
OR if it is a Nikon FM2/T Dog Edition is is 2500-3000 USD..
Please visit the eBay web site to find more on these cameras.
www.ebay.com
Regards and good luck..

Here it is in PDF format