20 Most Recent Bosch Skil HD77 7-1/4 in. Worm Drive Skilsaw Questions & Answers

buy a bigger saw (91/2")

To fully test the armature you need to remove it and use a bit of kit called a 'growler'. Most powertool service shops (especially manufacturer approved ones) will have one of these. You can get a fair idea form a couple of visual inspections too though. It is best to remove the motor housing so you can see the rear of the armature clearly (the commutator). First of all though, before you completely remove the motor housing you will need to remove the brushes. The running faces of the brushes should be nice and smooth, if they are pitted and and rough looking across the entire running face then this shows that the motor has been sparking too much and the armature is most likely to be faulty. If the running faces of them is only pitted and dull halfway across this would indicate that the field coil is faulty and would need replacing. Once you have checked this, if you want to double check the armature, you should continue to remove the motor housing. the field coil will usually stay inside the housing when you remove it which is good as it means you don't have to disconnect any wires. You need to visually inspect the copper segments at the end of the armature (the commutator). All the segments should be of a similar colour and not too dark, although there will be carbon 'burnt' onto them. The gaps between each segment should be pretty much straight and all the same between each bar. If an armature is shorting out you will normally find a couple f the segments have started to raise slightly. These segments will have an abnormal gap between them and be darker or appear mire burned than the others. If they all seem fine, the only other check you can do on an armature is with a growler so you would have to get in touch with your nearest repair shop and see if they can help you.

This sounds like the Hand crank mechanism could be the problem. If it is going down in steps the gearing on the height adjuster could be slipping and 'jumping' teeth. When was the last time you gave the table saw really deep clean? Sometimes dirty and sawdust can get inside this machine. Sawdust can soak up oil and lightweight grease drying out areas that need the oil. Give it a really good clean and see if there is access to add a small amount of oil to the moving table lift parts.

Hi, Please rotate your locking collar clockwise in order to reverse the jam. Please review page 9 of your manual in part 1 of "installing the blade". You can also reference figure 3 on that page. Thank you.

It sounds like you are having difficulty tightening the blade on your Bosch 1587vs jigsaw. To resolve this issue, first unplug the tool and lift up on the knob and loosen the spindle lock. Then insert the blade and push up slightly while doing so and twist to align the blade with the roller. Make sure to turn past resistance until it clicks. If the issue persists, you may need to replace the "clic" assembly, part #2-602-025-901.

Hi, It sounds like you've called all 3rd party locations. Please call Bosch directly and request the part. And if they don't have it in the U.S. then you can request the phone number for their international locations. The U.S. phone number is 1-800-944-2904. Otherwise, I would search on ebay and alibaba to find the part that you've mentioned. Thank you.

you tighten arbor nut with lock up. try using nut wrench and rock the arbor back and forth.

Thanks your question. please see this video

Most electrical bench and table top tools have a part called a 'capacitor' fitted. These do occasionally fail. In simple terms it is a electrical component that stores a electrical charge. When you turn the table saw on the capacitor very quickly loads the motor with that charge boosting the power supply to get it up to speed. If you are doing this yourself wear RUBBER gloves to protect yourself from electrical shocks. They are usually quite simple to replace, However, Capacitors still hold a charge when the saw has NOT been used in a while AND when it is unplugged from the wall socket. They can give you quite a kick, some can actually kill you, if you aren't careful. The safest way to discharge a capacitor that I've found is to use a Capacitor Discharge pen, (often cheap to buy), or the bulb set up. Two short lengths of INSULATED wire with a bulb in the middle. With the table saw Unplugged and wearing rubber gloves touch one wire to one capacitor terminal and the other wire to the other terminal. Using a bulb it should light up then steadily fade. Once the bulb is totally off the capacitor should be safe to handle. BEFORE you remove the wires check the markings on the capacitor to make sure it isn't a directional flow of voltage. Some are and some are not.

Hi Rebecca, I hope this helps; BLADE INSTALLATION Set the blade orbit selector lever to position III. Push blade change button downward as far as it will go and turn the top handle three turns counterclockwise (viewed from the top of the tool). Insert the blade into blade plunger at a 90° angle to the cutting direction. With a slight upward pressure, turn the blade teeth forward (direction of cut) and guide the back of the blade into the groove in the center of blade roller guide. Pull gently down on the blade to seat the blade tabs in the plunger. With the blade in the proper position, turn top handle clockwise until a noticeable "Click" sound is heard, indicating that the blade is locked in place. Push blade change button upward to its original position (flush with the top of the top handle), and the saw is ready for use. Removing the blade is essentially the reverse of the installation procedure, however, take note that once the blade change button is loosened, gently push the blade upward to release the blade tabs from the plunger.

On the underside of the tool, on the same side as the trigger, there is a large button nearest the blade. I think it is yellow on that model. This will be a 'Push and hold' trigger to release the blade.

lift lock on side on the front of saw front

Hi. I've just changed the stop block on my GTS10XC using the instructions that I found here https://www.ereplacementparts.com/toothed-gear-p-47273.html i basically turned the machine on its right side and tilted the blade so that I could see the raise/lower mechanism. I then knocked out the two pins holding the gear and the stop block (using a roll pin punch), undid the two bolts on threaded shaft and then could slide the parts that I needed to replace off. Hope this helps - it's simple when you know how to get the pins out - they did need a good thwacking with a lump hammer mind.

WD40 is as good as anything, 'Plugas' is better. You can even use diesel fuel.

https://www.laserkerf.com/horizontal-way-tube-installation

kindly click thelink below to downloaf manual..

have it unplugged of course

restoration video in 10 parts here https://www.google.com/search?q=bosch+4100+replace+motor ..

!!! with power disconnected !!!! to saw check there is no fine timber lodged in saw between saw and saw bench. check the saw is locked on on trigger