If the START / PAUSE button lights up red, the washing machine detects a malfunction. Now you should count how many times the START / PAUSE button lights up red and tell to us what kind of malfunction is being done.
Try to rapid reading of alarm codes when the appliance is in normal operating mode (e.g. during the execution of the washing
programme):
Press and hold down START/PAUSE and the nearest option button for at least two seconds: the LEDs initially switch off, and then display the flashing sequence indicating the last alarm.
LED indicator START / PAUSE with red light = indicates the first digit of the alarm code (family)
• LED indicator START / PAUSE with green light = indicates the second digit of the alarm code (internal number of the family)
Dado
water pressure or
This video will show you how to keep your soap draw clear
and how to service the parts
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HOW TO FIX ERROR 7 PROBLEM!
This problem is quite common on these machines, especially just after the machine has been moved. As a previous poster has said, Err 7 is a motor error. It is usually because the electrical connector has become detatched from the motor. Here is how to fix it.
First of all, PLEASE unplug the machine from the wall socket! And switch off the water supply too!
Pull the machine out from under the counter, and turn it so that you have access to the back of the machine.
Remove the 3 phillips screws that secure the back plate. You are only removing the small plate immediately behind the drum, not the whole back panel!
Look through the hole you have just created by removing the panel down towards the bottom of the machine. You will see the motor. Hopefully you will also see a 7 way connector not connected to anything, and a 7-way socket on the motor! (7 way means that it connects 7 different wires!)
Plug the connector back on to the motor. Don't worry, it will only go one way round, so you can't get it wrong. If the connector looks like it is connected, give it a little wiggle and a push to make sure it is fully home.
Replace the the small back panel, taking note that the top of the panel goes BEHIND the main back panel, and the bottom of it goes IN FRONT of the main panel. (This could be the other way round, I can't remember!)
Push the machine back under the counter, making sure that it is level (level it up by turning the 2 feet at the front of the machine until it doesn't wobble), reconnect the water and plug it in to the electricity supply.
Turn the machine on and attempt to operate the machine. (Top Tip: Select the wool or quick wash to test the machine, otherwise you will have to wait 3.5 hrs for the machine to go through a cotton/linen wash! Unplugging the machine won't help, because it remembers where it was when it gets a power cut!)
Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
As there is water still left in the drum the drain motor is not being able to empty the washer. I would suggest checking the operation of the motor itself by going through (again, sorry!) my (complete, general) guidance notes for checking both the drainfilter and the drain motor ;-0)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!) and most are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play!
REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT! It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. If it doesn't work then the motor is malfunctioning!
Hope the filter is the problem and good luck!
John C
Might be a blockage in the outlet . drain the pump trap filter and then check to see if all of the water is going out of the machine, if it does then the machine should spin fast. if not the motor brushes could be worn you will need help with this. Check that the drum turns freely when empty. good luck
Hello,you mean you have a door gasket. A good, step-by-step article on
this pesky concept of "panel-screw" gasket installation is found on
this handy page:
found out its the printed circuit board has burnt out behind the front panel two tracks on the panel leading to a green capacitor on the circuit board overheated so i resolded the tracks put the washing machine back together and so far its done several washes [touch wood its a sucess] the circuit board brand new from zanussi 135.00 pounds [so new washing machine if it fails] so hopefully theres a solution
Hi The grinding sound is because of damaged or broken bearings. You will have to see if the motor rotor bearing is damaged or the drum bearing before you change anything. Regards
Berry
-plug out the machine -take out the element at the back-just loosen the centre nut on the element-grab urself a wire clothes hanger and fish it out-make sure u put the element back the same way --test the drum by spining it by hand before turning it back on--gook luck
It doesn't pump or spin
If it doesn't pump water out or spin, check to see if the motor is running, then proceed as follows:
If the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley or a broken pump belt. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. If the pump belt is broken or looks quite worn, replace it--but be sure to check the pump pulley before you change the belt.
If the motor isn't running, the lid switch may be defective. If so, the washing machine can't spin and may not function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.
The lid switch may be defective. If it is, the washing machine doesn't spin. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.
The motor coupler may be broken. Many Whirlpool®-manufactured washers use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. You may need to replace it.
A belt may be broken. Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)
The clutch may be worn. If your washer is a GE, it may use a clutch to come up to the proper spin speed. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the unit from spinning well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician.
The drive motor may be defective. Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor.
The transmission may not be shifting properly. Older washers produced by Whirlpool® have a transmission with an electro-mechanical shifter. If the shifter becomes even partially defective, the unit may drain the water but not spin. This is a complex system, if your washer has a shifter problem, you may want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it.
The spin bearing or basket drive may be worn or seized. These components allow the inner tub to spin freely inside the outer tub. When this is the problem, you usually hear a loud sound during the spin cycle. Call a qualified appliance repair technician.
It spins only with the lid closed
For safety, washing machines are made so that they spin only with the lid closed. The lid switch prevents the spinning action when the lid is up.
First, make sure the lid is closed completely. Check to see that the power cord is ok and that it is getting power. If it is, the machine's overload protector may have tripped. In this case:
- Take out some of the articles to reduce the load and let the protector reset itself, then restart.
- If it doesn't help, Check whether the programmer/timer is linked to a controller board. Generally this is hidden away underneath and is difficult to see. This may have an intermittent fault or may be getting damp or there may be something amiss with the wiring.
- Check the switch contacts with a meter. Also check there isn't a
blockage in the 'spigot' that joins the hose to the drum (Poke a piece of wire up the hole if needed).
you will have to split the case u will find 6 8mm bolt under the lid remove the 2 rear looking from the front then down the sides u will see 2 round plastic covers remove them by putting a small screw driver in the centre of the lug there r another 8mm bolt in each side use a small screw driver to remove the mains and valve block now the cabinet will split u will need a 10mm socket to remove the heater and a claw hammer to get the heater out of its housing use the claw by caerfully placeing it under the terminal 1side @ a time and the heater will come out u will be able to get the bra wire out from there u may need a set of long nose plyers good luck and make sure u have unplugged the machine b4 u start any dissmanteling
