20 Most Recent Zanussi ZWD1680W Front Load Washer / Dryer Questions & Answers

the first thing i would try is the pump..........if its not draining all the water out it will take longer to finish...........pump could be blocked......alst the hose from the pump........check both first..... cheers

Obviously you have set the timer and checked that the machine is plugged in ;-) Looks like the timer could be faulty or the door is not closing properly. Get in touch with local service representative to have the parts replaced or tightened.

With the symptoms you describe i would suspect a intermittent heater element fault as you are getting earth leakage current which is tripping the whole supply rather than a current overload which would just trip the socket circuit breaker. Get the heating element checked over first as this is the most likely cause.

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,

Try this, please.

I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor/pump lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not even go to rinse or spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
Following are my complete and hopefully 'coverall' pre-typed guidance notes for checking both the drain motor filter and the drain motor ;-0)
REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT (alternatively use a wet vac as sensibly suggested by VinnyB1234!)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!). These panels are either held on by (plasic) screws or will just pull off. Most filters are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play.
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning.

If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C

first dry ok second dry seems too hot then errors

Have you taken the filter out at the front of the washer and cleaned it. Mine wouldn't drain but once I did that it worked ok.

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,

Check that the washer supply is OK using another item - a kettle for instance. If it's not check your breakers/fuses. Reset/replace if necessary and if the same thing happens, or if there was nothing wrong with the breakers/fuses in the first place, sorry but with such a fault it is impossible for anybody on this forum to remotely guess what could be wrong with your washer. It could be internal wiring/plugs sockets, control panel switches, control PCB.

I fear that your only real option is a service call as the engineer will have the right equipment to safely diagnose what is wrong.

If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
Spares Suppliers
You will need to type into your search engine/web browser '(make model number) washer spares' and you should be presented with a number of sources from which you can order. Alternately you could try telephone directories for spares suppliers but I would think the former would be more successful.
For a service manual it is virtually the same!
You will need to type into your search engine/web browser '(make model number) washer service manual' and you may be presented with a number of sources from which you can either download for free or have to pay a nominal amount.
You could also try the manufacturer's web site direct BUT a number of manufacturers will only supply technical info to registered service agents ;-0(

If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C.

This means Childlock is on..Think you hold in for over 10 secs to switch off

Could well be the Door interlock switch, try a new one cost to buy £ 30 approx

no ..... whats wrong.

Hi you dont mention any error codes if there problems with draining e20 is displayed any blockage in the pump or drain passage can cause this . however you suggest the draining is ok so this is more likley to be a fault in the water level control. an easy fix would be if you found a blockage in the pressure chamber at the base of 2 x 8mm tubes(from pressure switches) located near the sump hose at the bottam of the drum. undissolved detergent is normally the culprit.jw

I think you need to have an engineer to look at it.
Something is seriously wrong with it and not safe to use.

I've just had a the same problem with this model, locking out with error code E20 ...but fixed it!, and i tell you what - it's not difficult. Give it a go and save yourself loads of money in the cost of professional service, repair or unnecessary replacement.
I've had the machine only about three years, but it's seen some heavy use with two small boys in the house ...so it's worn maybe more like double its real age (how i feel getting out of bed some mornings).
The lockout seems to be an overheat protection rather than anything broken.
The dryer works by sucking air out of the right hand side of the drum, through a clear(ish), flat plastic tube to a metal fan chamber at the top, the fan blowing air into the heater chamber (wrapped in tin foil across the top), from where the hot air passes back into the drum through the slot at the top of the front door.
Thing is, some of the fibres and fluff washed and tumbled off clothes collects and clogs in the clear tube on its way to the fan ...some of it dry and thin like old wallpaper, but most of it (after some time) thick and staying damp like paper mache. Of course, when the tube gets blocked and the fan can't **** up enough air to blow across the heaters, i guess the heaters get over hot (mine was scorchio when i took the lid off straight after the second time it failed) and an overheat thermostat is tripped. There might be other forms of protection like pressure switches and current sensors, but hey we don't need to know if there are.
All you have to do is remove the tube and poke and flush out the fibre mache.
Before you start though, for heavens sake UNPLUG THE MACHINE! If it's wired into the wall, then at least remove the fuse or flick off the circuit breaker at the fuse box.
Unscrew the two screws at the top and behind the lid. Slide the lid back and lift off. Looks daunting doesn't it? Honestly though, don't worry about it.
Find and remove all the screws holding on the back panel (there are four to the rear of the top cross bar and one hiding behind a white grommet down the bottom of each side). Unclip the tube /cable holder at the top and knock /slide the back panel rearwards.
Down the right hand side, you'll see the clear flat suction tube. Prise the small tube off the top and the fan up until the suction tube can be pulled out from the side. Unscrew the hoseclip around the black rubber drum tube on the inside face, then prise the suction tube out of the base frame with a screwdriver and some care.
You'll then be able to flush /poke out the fibre mache with a hose and a wire coat hanger.
Reassembly is reverse of the above. Bingo, you're done.
Oh and if it still doesn't work, what have you lost by trying?

get it on the net, i could not get it because it is very highly demanding and i neede to pay for it sorry : (