20 Most Recent Roper RS25AEXLQ Side by Side Refrigerator - Page 9 Questions & Answers

0helpful
1answer

Ice Maker not receiving water past the valve? at the bottom of refrigerator.

tap gently on solenoid . it is probably stuck from corrosion. if that doesnt work you will need a new one. go to any appliance parts dealer they should be able to supply you with a aftermarket replacement water valve.
5/26/2012 9:31:53 PM • Roper... • Answered on May 26, 2012
0helpful
1answer

Trying to replace the start relay on my Roper refrigerator.

depending on the model and the part # of the ptc overload relay will tell you how to wire it back as was,on some ptc O/L's there are spaces on the component where you just plug it on piggyback to this ptc,if not then all you do is wire the capacitor in parallel to the 2 power pins on the compressor,the cap doesn't actually start or run the units compressor,its there to help suppress the arcs on the relay when it starts,the compressor will operate without this capacitor
5/8/2012 1:36:41 PM • Roper... • Answered on May 08, 2012
0answers

Rt14bkxk002

Be the first to answer 1/5/2012 7:48:28 PM • Roper... • Posted on Jan 05, 2012Be the first to answer
0helpful
1answer

I have a 6 year

Hi

See if the compressor motor is running. The compressor is at the back of the freezer near the bottom. If it's humming, or making a steady noise, and your freezer is still not cooling properly, there could be a problem with one or more various components. If it is running, but your freezer is still not cooling at all, there may be a problem with the condenser or evaporator coils. Sometimes you can hear a click-buzz-click sound coming from the compressor. This is the relay/overload at work. If you hear this, power is getting to the compressor. If you do, something is wrong with either the compressor or the compressor starting components.

Use a multi-meter to test the compressor. First unplug the refrigerator and remove the start relay off of the side of the compressor. Go to the single pin on the compressor and check to one of the pins that are side by side on the compressor. The run winding will read 1-5 ohms resistance. Then stay on the single pin and go to the other pin. The start winding will read 3-11 ohms resistance. If your readings are out of these ranges, then you have a bad compressor. If they are within these ranges, then you have a bad relay overload.

Also check this link to read the useful information related to your issue:-

http://www.repairclinic.com/Refrigerator-Troubleshooting?red=Refrigerator-Repair-Help#itsstoppedcompletely

Please get back to us if you have further query or else please accept the solution.

9/16/2011 5:17:31 PM • Roper... • Answered on Sep 16, 2011
0helpful
1answer

Food in main compartment is

Please VOTE FOR ME AND GIVE ME YOUR TESTIMONIAL IF POSSIBLE, IF THIS WAS HELPFUL
ITWILL BE MUCH APPRECIATED.
The cold control needs replacing. Thats the knob with the numbers that turn the Ref OFF and ON.
What I do is call my local Appliance Parts Store with my model no. They are extremely helpful .
Get freezer and ref thermometer. Ref is probably too cold.
Freezer should be 0 to 10 degrees. Ref 33 to 35
If you need more help, Go here:

http://www.applianceaid.com/procedures.html

I'm including my article on Refrigerator Repair for your help and convenience.;
Please click or copy and paste into browser for Article

http://www.fixya.com/support/r5816737-fix_refrigerator_psychologically

MORE TIPS AND TRICKS:
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
STOP PAYING FOR EXPENSIVE WATER FILTERS FOR YOUR REF. DO THIS====
http://www.fixya.com/support/r9962087-stop_paying_high_price_refrigerator
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
WATER SPLASHING IN FREEZER AT ICEMAKER
THE FILL TUBE IN BACK OF REFRIGERATOR CAN SLIP
AGAINST THE FILL RESERVOIR CAUSING A PARTIAL BLOCKAGE
OR BECOME CLOGGED WITH ICE.
REMOVE THE ICEMAKER AND INSPECT THE FILL TUBE.
RUN WATER IN TUBE TO ELININATE BLOCKAGE AND CHECK
TEMP IN FREEZER. IF TEMP IS BELOW 0 DEGREES, THATS
OVERKILL AND USUALLY A WASTE OF ELECTRICITY TO KEEP IT THAT COLD, NOT TO MENTION THE FILL TUBE FREEZING UP
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Thanks for using fixya
Leo Ponder
imufo2
Please VOTE FOR ME AND GIVE ME YOUR TESTIMONIAL IF POSSIBLE, IF THIS WAS HELPFUL
ITWILL BE MUCH APPRECIATED.
9/11/2011 8:34:26 PM • Roper... • Answered on Sep 11, 2011
0helpful
1answer

Never mind my previous question,

Hi,
You can post a question for free is you do it just as you did this statement..

heatman101
9/2/2011 12:52:46 PM • Roper... • Answered on Sep 02, 2011
0helpful
1answer

I have a Roper refrigerator

Is the fan on the back, by the condensor, blowing? You could use freecycle.org in your area and see if someone has a slightly used machine if you are willing to pick, you'd be surprised what you can find there.
9/1/2011 4:02:32 PM • Roper... • Answered on Sep 01, 2011
0helpful
1answer

How to restart refrigerator

NOTE: This
is a multi-solution answer since I don't have all the tech from your question to pinpoint your problem
But the solution is in here generically, if you read and study the solutions very,very carefully.

Sounds like the cold control has stuck . Unplug the two wires from the cold control and plug them together. Turn one wire over and plug it into the other. away from the cold control.
The cold control is the knob in the ref that turns it on and off and has numbers on it. (Thermostat)
If it runs then that cold control (Thernostat) is the problem.
If that doesn't work DO THIS:
The relay on the compressor may need replaced
A relay starts the compressor with a higher voltage and then quickly kicks out
Thats what is happening with yours
Its best for a tech to replace The relay but you can do it
Take your model number to your Local Appliance parts store they will have a diagram
showing you how to install the relay. Its called a hard start relay
also try hooking the two wires together on the cold control to route around the cold control.

If you need more help GO HERE:

http://www.applianceaid.com/procedures.html

Thank you for using fixya
Leo Ponder
PLEASE VOTE FOR ME IF THIS WAS HELPFUL
8/31/2011 12:52:58 AM • Roper... • Answered on Aug 31, 2011
0helpful
1answer

I have a side by

Hi,

Yes, you just caught it in defrost mode... a necessary operation....no worries...everything is okay...

heatman101
8/26/2011 1:49:52 AM • Roper... • Answered on Aug 26, 2011
0helpful
1answer

The motor and the fan

NOTE: This
is a multi-solution answer since I don't have all the tech from your question to pinpoint your problem
But the solution is in here generically, if you read and study the solutions very,very carefully.
First I would check cold control. Thats where you turn it off, if your temp is not warm. it can
be defective and not shutting off. If your temp is warm proceed with the following.
I would check the fan in the freezer. Listen to see if it is running
It moves air to the ref from the freezer
Then check to see if FREEZER CONTROL is turned WARMER WHICH MAKES THE REF COLDER AND VICE-VERSA. SEE?
The ref. temp should be about 33-35
The Freezer temp should be 0 to 10 Any thing below these temps is overkill and a waste of elect
The higher the number you turn it up to is the coldest
But is probably a common defrost problem The ice build up
is not being melted by the defrost system.The fan can't blow through the coils into the fridge.
Take out back panel of freezer to check for ice buildup. The coils should be clean.
There are three components to a defrost system- a heater,heater thermostat, and a timer unless you have a defrost electronic card.
Its best handled by a Technician but you could possibly do it by taking your model number to the nearest appliance parts store and asking for the parts. They are mostly located in freezer ,behind back panel on freezer coils.except the card which is usually located in ref The parts store will have info
Also check fan undernearh Ref in the rear
Clean condenser coils underneath
Make sure back cover is on the fridge. Some take them off and throw them away.
make one out of cardboard if its gone, using the holes of the old one.
.I'm including my article on Refrigerator Repair for your help and convenience.;
Please click or copy and paste into browser for Article

http://www.fixya.com/support/r5816737-fix_refrigerator_psychologically
If
you need more help go here:

http://www.applianceaid.com/procedures.html

MORE
TIPS AND TRICKS:
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
STOP PAYING FOR EXPENSIVE WATER FILTERS FOR YOUR REF. DO THIS====
http://www.fixya.com/support/r9962087-stop_paying_high_price_refrigerator
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
WATER SPLASHING IN FREEZER AT ICEMAKER
THE FILL TUBE IN BACK OF REFRIGERATOR CAN SLIP
AGAINST THE FILL RESERVOIR CAUSING A PARTIAL BLOCKAGE
OR BECOME CLOGGED WITH ICE.
REMOVE THE ICEMAKER AND INSPECT THE FILL TUBE.
RUN WATER IN TUBE TO ELININATE BLOCKAGE AND CHECK
TEMP IN FREEZER. IF TEMP IS BELOW 0 DEGREES, THATS
OVERKILL AND USUALLY A WASTE OF ELECTRICITY TO KEEP IT THAT COLD, NOT TO MENTION THE FILL TUBE FREEZING UP
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Thanks for using fixya
Leo Ponder
imufo2
Please VOTE FOR ME AND GIVE ME YOUR TESTIMONIAL IF POSSIBLE, IF THIS WAS HELPFUL
ITWILL BE MUCH APPRECIATED.
8/24/2011 1:53:38 AM • Roper... • Answered on Aug 24, 2011
0helpful
1answer

We got side by side

NOTE: This
is a multi-solution answer since I don't have all the tech from your question to pinpoint your problem
But the solution is in here generically, if you read and study the solutions very,very carefully.
Check Temp inside freezer. It has to be down to about 10 or 15 degrees
This can cause slow ice making if its too high even tho its freezing everything else at 25 degrees
The ref. temp should be about 33-35
The Freezer temp should be 0 to 10 Any thing below these temps is overkill and a waste of elect
The higher the number you turn it up to is the coldest
The icemaker is 110v
See if water is in icemaker.
Pour water in Ice Maker and wait to see if it ejects.
If it ejects thenyou need to replace water valve in rear bottom of fridge(Its the part that
attaches to water line out of wall)
If it doesn't eject then it is a faulty Ice Maker.
If its leaking or no water at icemaker or door either one, then the valve at the rear bottom of ref needs replacing
First I would check the fan in the freezer. Listen to see if it is running
It moves air to the ref from the freezer
Then check to see if freezer control is turned WARMER, which makes the Ref. colder
Also if it is getting drinking water to the door but not to the icemaker (or vice versa) Then you need to replace
the water valve at the bottom rear of the fridge. It is a double valve and one side is not working
Also this might be a common Defrost problem, Ice
is not being melted by the defrost system.The fan can't blow through the coils into the fridge.
Take out back panel of freezer to check for ice buildup. The coils should be clean.
There are three components to a defrost system- a heater,heater thermostat, and a timer unless you have a defrost electronic card.
Its best handled by a Technician but you could possibly do it by taking your model number to the nearest appliance parts store and asking for the parts. They are mostly located in freezer ,behind back panel on freezer coils.except the card which is usually located in ref The parts store will have info
Also check fan undernearh Ref in the rear
Clean condenser coils underneath
If you still have trouble GO HERE:

http://www.applianceaid.com/procedures.html

I'm
including my article on Refrigerator Repair for your help and convenience.;
Please click or copy and paste into browser for Article
http://www.fixya.com/support/r5816737-fix_refrigerator_psychologically
Thanks for using fixya
Leo Ponder
imufo2
PLEASE GIVE A TESTIMONIAL AND VOTE FOUR THUMBS UP IF THIS WAS HELPFUL
8/22/2011 2:16:00 PM • Roper... • Answered on Aug 22, 2011
0helpful
1answer

Roper Range error code message

F1 - E2 UL A/D error(s)

1. Disconnect power for at least 30 seconds.
2. Re-apply power and observe for at least one minute.
3. If code re-appears, replace control board (also called ERC or clock).
8/20/2011 5:31:15 PM • Roper... • Answered on Aug 20, 2011
0helpful
1answer

My refrigerator is plugged on

NOTE: This
is a multi-solution answer since I don't have all the tech from your question to pinpoint your problem
But the solution is in here generically, if you read and study the solutions very,very carefully.

Sounds like the cold control has stuck . Unplug the two wires from the cold control and plug them together. Turn one wire over and plug it into the other. away from the cold control.
The cold control is the knob in the ref that turns it on and off and has numbers on it. (Thermostat)
If it runs then that cold control (Thernostat) is the problem.
If that doesn't work DO THIS:
The relay on the compressor may need replaced
A relay starts the compressor with a higher voltage and then quickly kicks out
Thats what is happening with yours
Its best for a tech to replace The relay but you can do it
Take your model number to your Local Appliance parts store they will have a diagram
showing you how to install the relay. Its called a hard start relay
also try hooking the two wires together on the cold control to route around the cold control.

If you need more help GO HERE:

http://www.applianceaid.com/procedures.html

Thank you for using fixya
Leo Ponder
PLEASE VOTE FOR ME IF THIS WAS HELPFUL
8/20/2011 8:24:27 AM • Roper... • Answered on Aug 20, 2011
0helpful
1answer

How do I get the

Pull. It will come off.
8/10/2011 11:54:00 PM • Roper... • Answered on Aug 10, 2011
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