20 Most Recent Roper RT21AKXKQ Top Freezer Refrigerator - Page 7 Questions & Answers

when the compressor is running unplug the ref. and if you hear the noise coming from the compressor then
a ballance spring may be broken inside the compressor.

The compressor will run normally with a broken spring it will just be annoying when it shuts down.

my roper ref top freezer is leaking water into the bottom fridge

usually a broken mounting spring inside the compressor. does not affect the ref cooling however the noise can be very annoying. repair would be to replace the compressor which is usually expensive to do.

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Good Luck,
Gilshultz

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The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.

If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.

If the defrost thermostat is bad it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.

The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.

If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.

See if you can hear the evaporator fan motor running in the freezer, if not, you need to replace it because it forces the cold air from the freezer into the fridge section to keep it cold.

5 reasons for fridge and/or freezer getting warm: 1- the evaporator coils are icing up and won?t let air circulate. 2- the evaporator fan is not working to circulate air. 3- there is no refrigerant in the system. 4- no power to fridge or compressor. 5- the condenser coils have no air circulation check under the fridge behind the vent. if it is too dusty or the fan isn?t working, it is not getting enough airflow to cool down. replace fan and/or vacuum out the dust. if there is no power to the fridge, the light will be off. if the compressor is not running, there is a defrost timer that cuts the power temporarily to the compressor to melt ice on the coils. it?s located under the fridge behind the bottom vent. If the timer is off and the compressor is not going, the compressor or the main board is bad and needs replacing. there is also a temperature sensor on the evaporator coils that tells the defrost coil to turn on and when to turn off. if the defrost timer is on but the coil is not heating up, replace the sensor. if it still won?t heat up, it?s the timer or the coil. the easiest way to tell if there is no refrigerant- the freezer wall is warm and the compressor is loud. if there is no refrigerant, it may be more cost effective to replace the fridge. if you feel no air coming from the freezer vent, the fan needs replacing. If you feel air moving in the freezer but not the fridge, the channel from freezer to fridge is blocked. if the freezer has air and the rear freezer wall has frost on it, the evaporator coils are iced up and need defrosting. causes: 1. low refrigerant 2. no fan 3. too much humid air in fridge/freezer due to door open or bad door seals 4. the condensate drain tube is clogged 5. defrost cycle not functioning properly if the seal around the door is ripped or not completely sealing, or there is condensation at the bottom or the walls of the fridge, replace the seal(s). no air, no fan. Replace if the refrigerant is low, it just needs a top off. but you need to be certified by the epa to move refrigerant, so get a professional.

Check to see if the fan motor is running in the freezer when the machine is running. If not, remove back panel, inspect and replace if needed.
If frost is appearing on that panel then the defrost system failed.
The defrost system is made up of 3 parts. 1.The defrost control (either standard style timer or electronic control) located in the fresh food compartment. 2. behind the freezer panel in the freezer, the main heater, which is a calrod unit similar to the bake element in an electric range, and 3. The defrost thermostat which is mounted near the top (usually left side) of the evaporator coil often called a terminator.
These components except for the defrost control can be checked with a VOM meter, if you have a working knowledge of electrical.
If not, you can remove the main heater, and with the model number in hand, go to your local appliance parts house and they will be glad to check it. If it checks O.K. replace the limiter and defrost control at one time.
Note: this machine has been known to have other problems. One is where the limiter plugs in, the plug terminals corode and fail to make a good electrical connection.
As well if there is no frost on the evaporator coil, the supply and return shutes have been known to ice. up. Shutting the machine down and doors open is the only correct way to solve this problem. Must be off for 24 hours.
Lastly, on occasion the lights do not go off when the door is closed. Either a bad light switch, or the door needs aligned to hit the switch properly. Check this first.

Your refrigerator has a drain that leads to the exterior drain pan beneath the refrigerator. Occasionally this drain can become clogged resulting in standing water inside your refrigerator. A similar drain exists in the freezer, which when clogged results in ice build up on the floor of the freezer.

The drain is located either on the floor of the refrigerator, beneath the vegetable crisper, or in the wall behind a drain funnel.

Clear the drain by forcing a solution of water and bleach or water and baking soda into it with a basting syringe. If the solution will not flow through, slide a length of ¼ inch flexible tubing into the drain tube to push the clog through to the drain pan. Remove the tubing after clearing the clog.

NOTE-(This may be a leveling issue as well)

It is important for the refrigerator to be level. If it is not level, doors may not open or close properly and may not seal tightly. Also, drainage from the defrost cycle might be impaired as might the ice making cycle. The appliance was engineered based on it being installed in a level position. While there may be some tolerance for out-of-level installation, the appliance will operate at its best when properly leveled.

Place a level on top of the refrigerator near the front. Do not put it on the door because the door may not be aligned with the refrigerator case. Check that the refrigerator is level from side to side. Next turn the level to check that it is level from front to back.

If it is not level, adjust one or more of the adjustable leveling feet until it is level. The feet are bolts that can be turned to raise or lower the refrigerator. If they cannot be adjusted with your fingers, use a crescent wrench or pliers.

If you have an ice-maker, it should also be checked for level after first leveling the refrigerator. An ice-maker that is out of level will spill water into the ice bin or into the freezer. It can be repositioned by loosening the mounting screws, adjusting it for level and then re-tightening the screws.

you have a clogged drain tube in the freezer compartment. it is frozen with ice and as the unit goes in to a defrost cycle the water has no place to go. you can fix it the easy way, just unplug the unit and let it defrost. this will take care of your issue.

Hello, this sounds like you have a blockage in the drain tube, remove panel back/bottom of freezer..you may see ice build up...melt ice with hair dryer/heat gun...you will see a pan below evaporator...melt ice in pan...dry water up in pan with paper towel...now you should see a hole in pan that leads to drain tube...pour some hot water in pan..wait a couple minutes..mop up water and repeat this step 2-3 times....once you have done this find some flexible curtain wire or electrical wire..poke down the hole until you see the water drain..now it is clear..put back panel back and you are good to go. The reason you see water in the fridge is because the water has been leaking into the freezer and down the vent into the fridge instead of running into the drain hole...Please feel free to comment again if you have any other question. Mike

i would replace the relay assembly..this is most likely the problem..its possible the compressor is defective and if the relay does not start the compressor..you most likely have defective one.
Bruce

Unplug the power to the Fridge, take the items out of the freezer. There is a bottom tray that's inside the freezer that has 2 or 4 screws, remove the screws that holds the floor to the freezer and lift it out. You will probably see a sheet of ice on the bottom of the freezer. You may have to take off the back cover which is inside the freezer, it covers the evaporator. Then you will want to defrost the ice, do not use a heat gun it will melt the inside of the freezer. Best way to thaw it is leave the power off and melt it with hot water (not boiling). Either wet vac out the water as it melts or use a hand towel to mop it up. Sometimes a turkey baster will work to squeegee it out. There is a drain hole in the back that you will see as the ice begins to melt. That needs to be clear and the only way to clear it is to cover it with hot water. You will know that it clears and working when you see the water drain out thru the drain hole in the back of the inside of the freezer. By the way the drain drains thru a pipe thru a tray that's on top of your compressor. That's what heats it and makes it evaporate. Be advised that as you see that it is clearing, you can stop dumping water down there as some may get on the floor as the pan may overflow and dump water on the floor. If that happens, just mop up the water from the floor. Now put it back together again and plug it back in and you should have no further problems.

That water is coming from your freezer during the defrost cycle. Normally there is a drain in your freezer that goes to a cup in your refrigerator and through the back of your refrigerator through a drain tube which extends down to a drip pan. If this tube gets plugged up, water will overflow in the cup and leak at the back wall of your refrigerator and through the holes that lead to the crisper's floor area. If you can remove the cup and using a wire dislodge anything blocking the drain, clean the cup of any debris and check your freezer drain for any obstruction causing water backing up and leaking !

I do not have info specifically on a Roper fridge, but:

Pull the unit out so you can get to the rear, bottom section. Unplug the unit. There should be a panel at the bottom that can be removed by removing several screws and lifting the panel away.

You should be able to see the (black) compressor and "behind" that are the coils.

Most likely your defrost condensate drain in the rear of your freeze is frozen over. I have put together a long page on the link below. Little too much about leaks in refrigerators and how to solve the problem to fit this page. Choose the part that applies most to your situation and let me know how I may help you resolve yours. I'll be here if you need so click on the link below, Thanks, Sea Breeze
HOW TO FIX A DRAIN LEAK INSIDE REFRIGERATOR AND FREEZER PART 2

Your auto defrost system has failed. This consists of the defrost heater and defrost thermostat located behind the back panel inside the freezer. Take the panel off to see. The third part is the defrost timer. Part 4 on this diagram is your timer. Turn it till the freezer cuts off and then check the heater. It should be hot now. If it is, replace the timer. If it's not the heater is probably bad unless the defrost thermostat clamped to the coils is bad. You can bypass it to see if it's the problem.

Check your drip pan and the nozzle of the line and see if it is dry. If it is dry you got a clog like I did.

I solved my own is the line from freezer to the drip pan was clogged with ice. Just remove the two back screws in the freezer section and melt the ice using hot water from the tap and maybe use a light pump could be a small foot pump nothing to powerful to put in the hole and pump until you see the water come through. I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jonathan_46ad2263e7b26101

You want a long, flexible brush without sharp points or edges.

Here's an example of one at amazon, but you can get one at any reasonable appliance store or hardware store.