Top 20 Roper RT21AKXKQ Top Freezer Refrigerator Questions & Answers

first thing to do if it is continually tripping is to replace the gfci. they do go bad over time. Shut the breaker off to it. remove and note which wires go to which screw. if it gets wired wrong because going by memory. tis not fun trying to figure it out. Best of luck hope this helps and solves it. It should, if not call a tech for the fridge. or post model and make and we can go from there.

this may help you. https://www.repairclinic.com/RepairHelp/How-To-Fix-A-Refrigerator/53---/Refrigerator-ice-maker-not-working hope it helps a little

Defrost drain under evaporator in freezer. Inside back wall of freezer has to be removed to access drain

Good morning Mark. There are a few general things that can underlie a cooling problem: A couple of things to think about?

1. Are both the refrigerator and freezer having trouble, or just one of them? The refrigerator section is usually cooled by circulating air from the freezer into the fridge compartment, using a variable slide vent to manage how much or little air is passed to the fridge part. (This is why sometimes you'll have stuff in one section that seems to get frozen at times - it's sitting right next to the vent). If this vent gets stuck, especially in the closed or mostly closed position, the fridge compartment won't cool enough. the culprit is often that ice has frozen into the mechanism for the vent movement. You'll want to look up a DIY on checking that out. Here is one aimed at Kenmore/Sears/Whirlpool, but it'll no doubt overlap over 90% with your Roper.

Freezer to refrigerator vent frozen 1 There is also a site I can point you to that talks a bit more on possible culprits (with parts for sale, of course) Roper Refrigerator Freezer is Cold But Refrigerator is Warm If everything is warm, fridge and freezer both, then you're generally looking for either a dead/worn out / dirty thermostat, that may think the fridge is cooler than it really is, or possibly an issue with the compressor. Also, if the freezer area is clogged with ice, this can influence the thermostat, and also impair the ability of the coolant to pull heat out of the system - (you have to flow the heat through a big layer of ice, which makes the system less efficient). You can also look to see if you have a tribe of dust bunnies that have taken up residence on the cooling coils. If so, dust them off with a soft brush or some compressed canned air (or a vacuum cleaner wand) Last thought - if the cooling fan for the compressor has stopped, failed, or gotten jammed, that will significantly reduce the compressor capability, and burn it out before long. Make sure the fan is spinning when the fridge is plugged in. Hoping this helps. If you go do any defrosting, avoid doing it with sharp objects, and use some patience. One tiny pinhole in a freezer coil and you're looking at a repair that will almost certainly cost more than the fridge is worth. Good Luck! D

This is usually caused by Ice building up and then melting. If you have a unit where there is ice building up you may have to leave the unit to completely defrost.

Remove bolts that hold both doors, make sure to remember order, bolts for doors should be universal, but hinges need to go in same place just turned around. On the other side of fridge you need to remove plugs where bolts from otherside go. Install as reverse of removal, leave bolts loose to leave for adjustment. Install refrigerator door before freezer. Then move handles, small covers hide the screws on face of doors others should be exposed. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/frankie_091f536560a54e12

Unplug your fridge and let it sit for about 5 minutes. Also you may turn the temperature dial to "0", then turned back on. The problem may also lay on the actual fan located in the center column that joints the top freezer with the lower part of the fridge. If the fan is not turning you may need to replaced that. Good Luck!

Hi Marcus,It appears from your issue stated you have a defrost problem. You will need to gain access into the freezer compartment, remove all the ice, and most likely replace the thermostat located on the inlet tubbing within the freezer section. Of course if all the ice is in the evaporator only. If only on the bottom of the freezer, you would need to only clear the ice away, and use hot water to clear the drain system.Good luck, feel free to ask more questions, glad to assist if needed. I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gere_bf68e6055dd61249

That can be normal from internal defrost cycle.

You will need to replace the "bimetal defrost element" and the "defrost heater".Here is a link to the bimetal defrost.Here is a link to the heater.You will need to empty the unit of food and leave the doors open for 24 hours so that all the ice buildup on the coils defrost before you can replace the parts.Take a look at this video.

The problem is a no defrost.Open the fridge door and look at the control box where the thermostat is located.Look from the underside of the box you will see two small screws and a small hole , Use a flat screwdriver and turn the small cog on the defrost timer till the fridge shuts off.Wait 15 min and tell me if the coils start to thawCustom Headlights For Audi

The first thing you want to do is open the freezer and see if the fan inside there is running. The reason is the freezer cools the refrigerator side by circulating air from the freezer. If the fan is running then your problem is one or more parts of the defrost system is malfunctioned and in return your problem arises. There are three parts to the system, the defrost timer or in some cases control board, defrost thermostat also known as a bi-metal, and the defrost heater. The defrost system is set up to operate as so. The defrost timer or control board will turn the machine off, in some cases every 8 hours, some 12. During this time period the defrost heaters, located behind the freezer wall and rest underneath the evaporator, yet wires to them run up the side of it, are energized and emit heat that raises upward to melt the ice that has formed on the evaporator coils. The bi-metal or defrost thermostat is at the top of the evaporator. When the heat from the heater starts to reach the bi-metal, it breaks the circuit turning the heater off. The whole purpose of this is because the freezer cool the refridgerator side by drawing air across the coils and blowing to the other side via the evap fan motor. In my opinion, if you change one part of the defrost system change them all because usually when one part fails another will follow, so save yourself the time and the food loss, the cost difference is minute. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_4570d45317834dd3

NOTE: This
is a multi-solution answer since I don't have all the tech from your question to pinpoint your problem
But the solution is in here generically, if you read and study the solutions very,very carefully.

Sounds like the cold control has stuck . Unplug the two wires from the cold control and plug them together. Turn one wire over and plug it into the other. away from the cold control.
The cold control is the knob in the ref that turns it on and off and has numbers on it. (Thermostat)
If it runs then that cold control (Thernostat) is the problem.
If that doesn't work DO THIS:
The relay on the compressor may need replaced
A relay starts the compressor with a higher voltage and then quickly kicks out
Thats what is happening with yours
Its best for a tech to replace The relay but you can do it
Take your model number to your Local Appliance parts store they will have a diagram
showing you how to install the relay. Its called a hard start relay
also try hooking the two wires together on the cold control to route around the cold control.
Be sure the BACK COVER is in place and hasnt been accidently removed.

If you need more help GO HERE:

http://www.applianceaid.com/procedures.html

For more of my tips GO HERE:

https://www.fixya.com/SSL/myprofile.aspx#my-tips#my-tips

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Hello,The problem is going to be a failure of the auto defrost cycle(thats why it worked for a short time after defrosting it before) this tip i wrote expalins what to check in the defrost system to see what exact component is defective. http://www.fixya.com/support/r10097882-wrong_when_freezer_frosted_refrig_warmGENE

Hi,

Many times a freezer and/or refrigeratordo not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...there are also many otherthings that can go wrong. If you are hearing a clicking or buzzing thencheck out the last two tips.

If your refrigerator is running but warm, then...

Check out these tips that I wrote about that... it is a great place to starttrouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then callinga repair person to do a simple thing for you...

Refrigerator Condenser Coil Cleaning Refrigerator Repair

Refrigerator Troubleshooting Refrigerator Compressor

Refrigerator Compressor Start Capacitor and Start Relay
Refrigerator or Freezer not Cooling or Getting Cold

heatman101

=-=-=-

NOTE: This
is a multi-solution answer since I don't have all the tech from your question to pinpoint your problem
But the solution is in here generically, if you read and study the solutions very,very carefully.
First I would check cold control. Thats where you turn it off, if your temp is not warm. it can
be defective and not shutting off. If your temp is warm proceed with the following.
I would check the fan in the freezer. Listen to see if it is running
It moves air to the ref from the freezer
Then check to see if FREEZER CONTROL is turned WARMER WHICH MAKES THE REF COLDER AND VICE-VERSA. SEE?
The ref. temp should be about 33-35
The Freezer temp should be 0 to 10 Any thing below these temps is overkill and a waste of elect
The higher the number you turn it up to is the coldest
But is probably a common defrost problem The ice build up
is not being melted by the defrost system.The fan can't blow through the coils into the fridge.
Take out back panel of freezer to check for ice buildup. The coils should be clean.
There are three components to a defrost system- a heater,heater thermostat, and a timer unless you have a defrost electronic card.
Its best handled by a Technician but you could possibly do it by taking your model number to the nearest appliance parts store and asking for the parts. They are mostly located in freezer ,behind back panel on freezer coils.except the card which is usually located in ref The parts store will have info
Also check fan undernearh Ref in the rear
Clean condenser coils underneath
Make sure back cover is on the fridge. Some take them off and throw them away.
make one out of cardboard if its gone, using the holes of the old one.
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If you need more help go here:

http://www.applianceaid.com/procedures.html

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WATER SPLASHING IN FREEZER AT ICEMAKER
THE FILL TUBE IN BACK OF REFRIGERATOR CAN SLIP
AGAINST THE FILL RESERVOIR CAUSING A PARTIAL BLOCKAGE
OR BECOME CLOGGED WITH ICE.
REMOVE THE ICEMAKER AND INSPECT THE FILL TUBE.
RUN WATER IN TUBE TO ELININATE BLOCKAGE AND CHECK
TEMP IN FREEZER. IF TEMP IS BELOW 0 DEGREES, THATS
OVERKILL AND USUALLY A WASTE OF ELECTRICITY TO KEEP IT THAT COLD, NOT TO MENTION THE FILL TUBE FREEZING UP
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Hi,

Check out these tips...they can help you figure out what is going wrong withyour refrigerator

Refrigeratornot Cooling or Fridge not Cooling

How to Defrost Refrigerator DefrostTimer Problem

WaterRunning in refrigerator from Freezer

Refrigeratoror Freezer not Cooling or Getting Cold
heatman101

NOTE: This
is a multi-solution answer since I don't have all the tech from your question to pinpoint your problem
But the solution is in here generically, if you read and study the solutions very,very carefully.

Sounds like the cold control has stuck . Unplug the two wires from the cold control and plug them together. Turn one wire over and plug it into the other. away from the cold control.
The cold control is the knob in the ref that turns it on and off and has numbers on it. (Thermostat)
If it runs then that cold control (Thernostat) is the problem.
If that doesn't work DO THIS:
The relay on the compressor may need replaced
A relay starts the compressor with a higher voltage and then quickly kicks out
Thats what is happening with yours
Its best for a tech to replace The relay but you can do it
Take your model number to your Local Appliance parts store they will have a diagram
showing you how to install the relay. Its called a hard start relay
also try hooking the two wires together on the cold control to route around the cold control.

If you need more help GO HERE:

http://www.applianceaid.com/procedures.html


---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
.I'm including my article on Refrigerator Repair for your help and convenience.;
Please click or copy and paste into browser for Article
http://www.fixya.com/support/r5816737-fix_refrigerator_psychologically
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
MORE TRICKS:
STOP PAYING FOR EXPENSIVE WATER FILTERS FOR YOUR REF. DO THIS____
http://www.fixya.com/support/r9962087-stop_paying_high_price_refrigerator
Thanks for using fixya
Leo Ponder
imufo2
Please VOTE FOR ME IF THIS WAS HELPFUL
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Most overlooked dryer energy saving problem EVER!
http://www.fixya.com/support/r5739846-most_overlooked_dryer_energy_savingr
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REF THERMOMETERS TIPS

http://www.fixya.com/support/r10177561-second_biggest_refrigerator_energy

Thank you for using fixya
Leo Ponder
PLEASE VOTE FOR ME IF THIS WAS HELPFUL

Hello James; It sounds like you have a couple of problems. One with the defrost circuit which is made up of the defrost heater, defrost thermostat and the defrost timer. Since it is a Roper it could be any of these items. You can check the heater and thermostat with a multimeter and if you have no resistance on on the heater it is good, the thermostat will have a very low resistance (28 ohms is normal), and it both are good then it is the timer. Now for the main problem, since you say the fan is operational and the cooling tubes are open then I would suggest you run a wire (14 gauge or guitar string) down the drain on the refrigerator side and clear the blockage. I know this doesn't make much sense, but although the fan is pushing air out of the freezer into the refrigerator section (at least somewhat) it has to have air ciculation so either your drain is blocked or the lower cooling tube is blocked preventing a complete circulation path. BTW if you have had cooling tube blockages in the past you can use a strand of wire (14 gauge) hooked over the defrost heater and down the top cooling tube to keep frost from building up.

I have a fridge (different from yours) that had the same problem. It defrosts ok, but the drain tube eventually freezes over, and can't melt - resulting in ice on the freezer floor and water dripping down into the fresh food compartment. This makes a real mess of the fridge.

Here's what I did: I took a couple of 8 inch long copper wires (#12 or #10 gauge) and bent a hook on one end of them to hang from the defroster heating element and let the other end hang down into the drain tube. My fridge allowed about 4 inches of the 8" wire to hang into the tube (adjust the length of your wire as needed). The copper wire conducts heat very well, so during the defrost cycle, the heat follows the copper into the drain tube preventing ice that may be trying to form. You can probably get away with aluminum (not as good as copper for heat transfer) or even steel coat hanger wire (but it will rust) if you must - I'm an electrician and had plenty of scrap copper so it was easy for me. It's worked like a charm for me - maybe it'll work for you too.

Good luck!