20 Most Recent Roper REX4634KQ Electric Dryer - Page 6 Questions & Answers

That would be a broken belt.







Service manual and videos are HERE If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Hello there and thank you for choosing fixya
If your dryer doesn't work at all, it could be because of problems with:
Power from the house Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? If you plug something else into the outlet, does it work? If not, check for a blown fuse or tripped circuit breaker. Door switch If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. To determine if the door switch has failed, watch the part testing video at the bottom of this page. Thermal fuse On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse (a heat-sensitive fuse that blows if the dryer overheats) mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse is about an inch long. It's usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing.

If the fuse has blown, it has no continuity. When this happens, your dryer either just stops heating, or it doesn't work at all. Be sure to inspect the venting/heating system before replacing the fuse to put the dryer back into operation. (You can't re-set this type of fuse.) To determine if the thermal fuse has blown out, watch the part testing video at the bottom of this page. Wiring Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. In this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block that it is attached too

Remove plug from wall socket.
Remove back from dryer.
On the right side you should see a sheet-metal duct/tube.
Label and disconnect wires to parts going into this duct.
Remove duct.
Heating element (coils) should be in lower portion of the duct.

Hi crystal 1979...
Here are a few things to check:
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape.
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse as it is faulty.
If you have an ohm meter then you can test the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse,
then you do not have to tape the wires together as described above.
To test your thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuseremove the wires from the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse and check for continuity, if you DO NOT have continuity then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse.
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST AS THIS COULD CAUSE A FIRE BECAUSE YOU HAVE REMOVED THE SAFETY.
Check your blower wheel to make sure it is secure to the shaft and not plugged with lint,socks,etc.
If the thermal fuse overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset.
You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, remove both wires from the thermal fuse and put the test probes to each of the ends of the thermal fuse, if no continuity then replace the thermal fuse.
A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace a generic element go to the following website:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
Please take time to rate me

IT COULD BE 1 OF 3 THINGS RIGHT OFF, 1) THE HEATING ELEMENT IS BAD, 2) the fuseable link is bad. 3) there may be a cracked porcilan insalater,whitch in turn can result in the first two problems, i would say the 1st is your problem, also not cleaning the dryer filter after each load and washing it regulary wil cause exsesive heat build up and cause a fire potential, also try not to use dryer sheets this causes wax buildup on the filters. the best way is to use a liquid fabric softner in the wash. and check the dryer exhaust hose and the exhaust hose outlet outside for any kind of blockage i.e. lint,or somthing setting in front of it ,good luck,

hello teraya37, this Mike. Your idea is very possible. You see, if there is a significant clog in the ductwork, the airflow is reduced (which is not good) and your dryer overheats as a result. If this is allowed to continue, you could easily have a fire on your hands. Now what's there to prevent this is what's called a THERMAL FUSE. I'm posting a link right below here that will have a diagram of your dryer's parts. The thermal fuse is part number 23.
http://www.partselect.com/MultiModels.aspx?ModelNum=rex4634kq&searchTerm=&RefineSearch=0

If you do have some airflow restriction, I would start right there with the thermal fuse. If you unplug the dryer and pull it from the wall. You usually have access to the fuse from the back. It will have two terminals with wires attached.
Now what you will need to do is go out and buy or borrow a continuity tester (if you dont already have one). Depending on the type of tester you have or get (you can just get a cheap one), you can touch the terminals of the fuse with the tester leads and see if there's continuity. If there's no continuity, you'll know the fuse is bad and needs to be replaced. They're not expensive at all.
Now most importantly, if the fuse is the problem; then the ducting of the dryer needs to be closely examined for clogs or blockages, or you'll end up with the same problem.

Now for the next thing that I would check would be the door swich.
http://www.partselect.com/PS346703-Whirlpool-3406105-Door-Switch.htm?SourceCode=5&ModelNum=rex4634kq here is the diagram for the switch and it's location. You will need to access the switch and test it for continuity as well. Just remove the wires from the terminal marking where they go after you're finished. test for continuity on the outer terminals (should be three). there should be continuity with the switch pressed (or door closed). If there is no continuity, the switch is bad and needs to be replaced. The dryer will not start if this switch is bad for safety reasons.
If you attempt any of these continuity tests, make sure you unplug the dryer before doing so.

Now these are the things that I would check FIRST.
If your problem still exists after this, and you need further assistance, I will be more than happy to help you out.
I hope that you find this helpful.
thanks,
Mike

Hi,

There can be many reasons why your dryer will not start or turn...

The most common causes are the belt breaking or jumping off, or the motor goingbad...

Here are a couple of tips that I wrote will help you to figure out why yourdryer will not run...

Dryer Repair - The Dryer is not Turning

Dryer Repair - The dryer will not start


heatman101

''; ' ;

Since this will be dealing with the electrical side of the appliance you will want to have someone qualified to check the power connection and the power connections inside the dryer all the way to the switch, it may be simply a loose wire, I would not advise doing this on your own as electricity is very dangerous and will cause injury if not handled by someone qualified.

First, I'm confused about your dryer cord change. The green ground wire should NOT be connected to the neutral terminal block - but rather stay connected to the dryer cabinet. Here's a detailed link the describes (with photos) how to change a dryer's 3 wire cord to a 4 wire cord. This work should be double-checked to make sure you've done it correctly and have a safe installation.

Since you're not getting the dryer to run (you didn't say if it spins but has no heat or if nothing works at all) and you've checked the components of the dryer; the only thing left is to make sure there is 240 volts at the dryer outlet.

Make sure the power is ON. You should have either a 2 pole 30 amp circuit breaker or two 30 amp fuses that provide power to this outlet. Make sure the fuses are good / circuit breaker is ON (not tripped).

Do not touch a metal probe at any time that one is connected to the outlet in the steps below.

With a meter set to 250 volts or higher range - or a wiggy tester, slip each of the probes into one of the two straight blade openings in the outlet (use of a test lamp is discouraged as there is not voltage reading provided - it should only be used to indicate the presence of power). You should have a 240 volt indication (an indication of anywhere between 220 and 250 volts is acceptable).

Remove one of the probes and press it into the ""L" shaped opening; leaving the other probe in the straight blade opening. A 120 volt indication should be present (an indication of anywhere between 110 and 125 volts is acceptable for this and the following 120 volt measurements).

Remove the probe from the "L" shaped opening and press into the "O" shaped opening. Again, 120 volts should be indicated.

With the probe kept in the "O" shaped opening, remove the other probe from the straight blade opening and insert into the other straight blade opening. A 120 volt indication should be present.

Remove the probe from the "O" shaped opening and press into the "L" shaped opening. Again, a 120 volt indication should be present.

Remove the probe from the straight blade opening and press into the "O" opening. There should be a zero volt indication. A value of one or two volts is acceptable - but zero is expected.

If you get results that deviate in any way from those listed above, there is a problem with the circuit. An electrician should be called if the circuit breaker can't be reset or if fuses blow. If the voltages are indicating correctly but dryer still won't operate, there may be an issue with cord wiring or internal controls or safety devices inside the dryer.

I hope this helps. Please rate this reply - thanks!

Are you needing just the operating manuel or technical manual Go to whirlpool.com thanks

you need to check for power to the machine itself, if you have power to the machine, remove the back panel and check the thermal fuse

Hi gmcrae1239...

Your being shocked because you do not have a ground wire hooked to your dryer...
I will send you to a webpage that has drawing of 3 and 4 wire with ground hookups that should solve your problem.
Please take time to rate me

http://www.selfhelpandmore.com/switch-outlet/dryer-circuit-wiring-and-hookup.php

Hi,
Here is a tip that will help you with changing your dryer plug. Dryer Cord and Wiring Dryer 3 Wire or 4 Wire



heatman101

This is very likely due to the thermal fuse being blow open as a result of a failed thermistor and/or clogged lint screen or restricted vent system. The thermal fuse is wired in series with the motor and cuts power to the latter when the former has blown. No dryer function works when the motor cannot run.

Disconnect power then clean the lint screen and the vent system if necessary. Remove the rear panel to access and replace the thermal fuse and the thermistor on the blower housing. Click on the link below for the troubleshooting and repair details.

Kenmore and Whirlpool Dryers Not Starting

Replace the belt,part number 8066065.

check this link for pics http://www.selfhelpandmore.com/switch-outlet/dryer-circuit-wiring-and-hookup.php

Hi, If you are having problems with your gas dryer not heatingthe most common problem is that the ignitor goes bad. Even though it glowssometimes it is still not working properly. if you dryer is gas check out this gas no heat tip.... If you have an electric dryer, you can have many differentthings that can go wrong causing the dryer not to heat. check outthis electric no heat tip...

heatman101

Hi candipaige1...
Here are a few things to check...

ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape.
If you have an ohm meter then you can test the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse,
then you do not have to tape the wires together as described above.
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse as it is faulty.
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST AS THIS COULD CAUSE A FIRE BECAUSE YOU HAVE REMOVED THE SAFETY.

If the thermal fuse overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset. A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat. You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, if no continuity, replace it)
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace a generic element go to the following website:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
This is a FREE answer, Please take time to rate me

If you are having dryer problems and you cannot even get the thing to start, then you might want to start going through this check list of possibilities. There are a number of things that can cause your dryer to not run.

A couple of the most common problems are the thermal fuse has blown or the door switch is not operating properly. On many dryers if the thermal fuse blows, the dryer will not run at all. This fuse can be checked with an ohm meter. It should show continuity if it is okay. If there is no continuity then you need to replace it and also find out what else failed. This is a safety device that usually blows because something else allowed the dryer to get too hot. It is usually located in the back of the dryer, on the blower housing. Some are oval in shape and others are rectangular, usually with two wires attached.

A defective door switch or a bent door switch lever can also cause you to have problems. If the lever is broken or bent it will not activate the switch. If the switch is broken, this also will not allow the dryer to be started.

The push (or turn) to start switch can go bad, but is unlikely. To check this, hold it in or turn it and then check to make sure you have continuity with an ohm meter.

If the dryer starts and then stops when the switch is released check the control board or the ?even heat? control on some model dryers. Some dryers have a belt break switch that can fail or your belt may be way loose or broken.

Check for burn marks or burnt wires at the terminal block on your dryer, poor connections can cause all kinds of problems. Also poor connections can cause fires.

A bad power cord also falls into this same category.

Of course, always check that you have the proper voltage to the outlet that you are plugging into.

http://www.fixya.com/support/r4312805-dryer_maintenance

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3866744-dryer_not_working_dryer_not_drying

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3907570-buy_appliance_parts_online

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3866345-dryer_troubleshooting_electric_dryer_won

http://www.fixya.com/support/r4496386-dryer_cord_wiring_dryer_3_wire_or_4_wire

http://www.fixya.com/support/r4416566-dryer_repair_squeaks_grinding_clicking

http://www.fixya.com/support/r4422207-dryer_repair_dryer_not_turning

http://www.fixya.com/support/r4460438-dryer_repair_dryer_will_not_start

http://www.fixya.com/support/r4398592-gas_dryer_not_working_gas_dryer_not

Hi 7jessin...

ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Sounds like your problem may be a broken belt, or the belt may have slipped off of the motor pulley, or idler arm pulley.
If you have to check/replace/repair your drum motor,drum seals,belt,rollers, etc.
If replacing drum seals be sure to use a good grade of weather proof cement to hold the seal/s in place, some seals are furnished with the cement to glue it in place.
Note: This method works for most front loading machines.
Remove the electrical console that holds the timer switch,start switch, etc. from the top of the dryer if necessary. Be real careful not to knock any of the wires off of the timer switch or other electrical connections.
Remove the lint filter and the two screws that hold the filter housing to the top of the dryer lid.
Then remove the top of the dryer by inserting a screwdriver between the top and frame on each side of the dryer to pop the lid up from the retaining clips.
Note: Some of the tops tilt backwards on a type of hinge and do not have to be removed completly.
Remove the front of the machine by disconnecting the door switch and removing the two screws located on either side of the dryer frame.
Move the door and front of machine forward to remove.
This will expose the belt,idler bracket and drum, remove the drum and belt and this will expose the drum rollers, idler arm bracket with pulley, and motor with pulley. Pay attention to the route of the belt, this will come in handy when you go to reinstall the belt and drum.
Sometimes the belt will slip off of the idler arm or motor causing the drum not to turn.
Note:The way the belt goes back on is, as the belt comes off the drum has to be doubled (pushed together to form a loop) and goes under the idler pulley then to the motor pulley.

While you have the drum out, I would recommend that you lubricate the drum rollers at the shaft of the roller with a good grade of machine oil like 3 in One oil or a vasoline type of lubricant. This will save you a problem later with the rollers getting noisy, also check your drum rollers for flat spots, if they have flat spots on them this will cause a thumping type noise. You will need to replace the drum rollers if they have flat spots on them.
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