20 Most Recent LG WM2350 3.7 CF Front Control Washer - Page 2 Questions & Answers

more often than not, this is a problem with a faulty heater in the machine not getting it up to temperatre (which help the powder dissolve). Put it on a 90 degree wash and keep checking the temperature, if it's not getting hot, then you need to swap out the heater. Ift IS getting hot, then it could be an empty pump problem. If the pump or waste pipe are blocked, the wash will take a very long time but it will be struggling to evacuate water and add fresh, which will also causse powder residue to be left behind. But I'd put my money on a heater fault

something is blocking the pump.unplug first.take drain hose and hold down at floor level with a container to catch water.it may be a coin or a wire from a bra,hair bobble etc feel in the pump to see if the impeller is free to move.if it is then suspect something in the hose between drum and pump like a sock.that restricts flow enough to put up fault code

machine needs to be level.so it cant rock side to side or front to back adj feet .when u load machine put half in and rotate drum half turn and put the rest of load in.that should balance load.dont overload.try running empty if it still showing ua

Hi Elaine258, you may need to take a look into it from the top, the soap, softener dispenser may be catching. Fairly straight forward to do, disconnect from the mains, two fasteners at the back hold the top on (if I remember right) lift top up from back and push forward, vvwalla. Hope this helps.

Hi Declan.....need to know which model machine you have.

open door and see if the drum can be moved up and down or side to side a lot. if it can, then you need a new bearing most likely. this would most likely only happen on a older washer that has been used quite a bit. repairclinic.com and appliancepartspros.com both have very good videos to show how the bearing can be replaced. takes some time and work, but if everything else on the washer is good, it could be worth the trouble. good luck.

The botten is durty which you feel when you fitst start and now, i am sour .

YOU NEED TO REPLACE THE THERMISTER.

No agitation or spin? try these: WATER PRESSURE SWITCH: This switch keeps your washer from overflowing. It is responsible for shutting off the power to the fill valve and redirects the power to the timer to start the washing machine running once the correct water level has been reached. Meter check ur water pressure switch? You can test it with a meter and with a manual test? ( first locate it in the panel, it has a plastic clear tube hose going into it, remove that tube from its connection, now put another small tube or hose into the slot where it was and have the machine set to wash cycle with water in it. Blow into the other end of the tube. If the machine starts to wash. the pressure switch is more than likely good ( No wash starts - then THE DIAPHRAGM IS BAD AND SWITCH HAS TO BE REPLACED) another test u can do is Remove the hose and submerge in water. Seal one end and blow air into the other end and look for bubbles. Check for an obstruction in the hose as well. Or take the original hose tube and plug one end and blow into it AT the other end, it should be hard and have pressure, if it is easy to blow and u dont feel any pressure and it feels like the air is going out ? Sometimes they get busted open or a pin hole and release air causing the water switch diaphragm to not open. Motor Coupling If the washer won't spin or agitate the motor coupling might have failed. The motor coupling connects the motor to the washer transmission. It is designed to fail if the washer is overloaded in order to protect both the motor and Drive Belt If the washer won't spin or agitate, check the drive belt. If the belt is broken or if it isn't tight on the pulleys the washer won't spin or agitate properly. Drive Motor If the washer won't spin or agitate the drive motor might be defective. This is not common. Check all of the other related parts to this symptom before replacing the motor. If the motor is visibly burned out or physically damaged, replace it. Stator Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the stator assembly might be burned out. The stator is essentially one half of a motor, it interacts with the tub by creating a strong electro-magnet. If the stator burns out the washer won't spin or agitate. Check the stator for continuity. This part is often misdiagnosed. Transmission or clutch assembly not engaging due to going out or slipping. Door or Lid Latch Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the lid switch assembly might be defective. This is a very common problem. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any electrical switches with an Ohm meter for continuity. The switches should have continuity according to their design. Door Lock Motor and Switch Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the door lock assembly should be checked. The door lock can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any switches on the door lock with an Ohm meter. The switches should have continuity according to their design. Motor Control Board If the washer won't spin or agitate the motor control board might be defective. The motor control board provides power to the motor as well as direction and force. If the motor control board is defective the washer may not work at all or function properly. CHECK THE CAM DOGS INSIDE THE AGITATOR, AS THEY WILL HINDER THE AGITATION PROCESS. However in G.E models the cam dogs are replaced with what is called an agitator coupler. (located at bottom of tub) Remember to check the agitator spline as well for worn broken teeth. By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!

The CL code stands for Child Lock. If you are unable to deselect the child lock function, then there could be a problem with the door latch assembly.

Check out this link http://www.fixya.com/support/t24120693-lg_front_loader_making_loud_deep_humming#sln_33139964

check pump for blockage

The FE code is an excessive water supply if the water is continuously running into the machine it may be due to a failing inlet valve or stuck float switch since you mentioned the drain pump filter being changed it could be that the old filter was restricting the flow.

dry bearings probly

No agitation? first use a meter and check ur water pressure switch? that is what sends the machine the message to start wash cycle? You can test it with a meter and with a manual test? ( first locate it in the panel, it has a plastic clear tube hose going into it, remove that tube from its connection, now put another small tube or hose into the slot where it was and have the machine set to wash cycle with water in it. Blow into the other end of the tube. If the machine starts to wash. the pressure switch is more than likely good. now take the original hose tube and plug one end and blow into it the other end, it should be hard and have pressure, if it is easy to blow and u dont feel any pressure and it feels like the air is going out ? sometimes they get busted open or a pin hole and release air causing the water switch diaphram to not open. If both check ok then next CHECK the motor coupler or belt if belt driven.check with a multi meter for continuity the door switch, and if there is a little movement on wash cycle in 1 direction only then check the cam dogs in agitator. No spin, try these: Using a multi meter check for continuity the door switch, which when bad may not allow agitation or spin. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Check the clutch, brake assembly and transmission, one way to check for slipping is to get under the machine after a spin cycle ( this is if u get a lil spin but not much leaving clothes still wet) mix in a spray bottle a lil water and some dish detergent, then spray it on the clutch assembly ( the metal round pc. Connected to the tranny) if it sizzles and steams up then u know its bad and slipping. Another way to check clutch if u get no spin at all? Is to take it out and use ur hand to try and turn the inner spring assembly pushing it around the inside? If its very easy, it BAD should be hard to push by hand. Next check the motor coupler which engages the tub and tranny to the motor. ( if its bad u usually get no wash or spin or very little of either) Next check for a loose, worn or broken belt if belt driven.

its called the water inlet valve. they should have a rubber washer in each end of the hose and if they go bad , u get leaks.

Any error codes?

try jimmie,s on e bay