LG SteamWasher WM2650H 27" Front-Load Washer with 3.6 cu. ft. Capacity, 9 Wash Cycles, 9 Options, Steam Option, Load Size Sensing, ColdWash Technology and Dual LED Display - Page 2 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

open door and see if the drum can be moved up and down or side to side a lot. if it can, then you need a new bearing most likely. this would most likely only happen on a older washer that has been used quite a bit. repairclinic.com and appliancepartspros.com both have very good videos to show how the bearing can be replaced. takes some time and work, but if everything else on the washer is good, it could be worth the trouble. good luck.

The botten is durty which you feel when you fitst start and now, i am sour .

YOU NEED TO REPLACE THE THERMISTER.

No agitation or spin? try these: WATER PRESSURE SWITCH: This switch keeps your washer from overflowing. It is responsible for shutting off the power to the fill valve and redirects the power to the timer to start the washing machine running once the correct water level has been reached. Meter check ur water pressure switch? You can test it with a meter and with a manual test? ( first locate it in the panel, it has a plastic clear tube hose going into it, remove that tube from its connection, now put another small tube or hose into the slot where it was and have the machine set to wash cycle with water in it. Blow into the other end of the tube. If the machine starts to wash. the pressure switch is more than likely good ( No wash starts - then THE DIAPHRAGM IS BAD AND SWITCH HAS TO BE REPLACED) another test u can do is Remove the hose and submerge in water. Seal one end and blow air into the other end and look for bubbles. Check for an obstruction in the hose as well. Or take the original hose tube and plug one end and blow into it AT the other end, it should be hard and have pressure, if it is easy to blow and u dont feel any pressure and it feels like the air is going out ? Sometimes they get busted open or a pin hole and release air causing the water switch diaphragm to not open. Motor Coupling If the washer won't spin or agitate the motor coupling might have failed. The motor coupling connects the motor to the washer transmission. It is designed to fail if the washer is overloaded in order to protect both the motor and Drive Belt If the washer won't spin or agitate, check the drive belt. If the belt is broken or if it isn't tight on the pulleys the washer won't spin or agitate properly. Drive Motor If the washer won't spin or agitate the drive motor might be defective. This is not common. Check all of the other related parts to this symptom before replacing the motor. If the motor is visibly burned out or physically damaged, replace it. Stator Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the stator assembly might be burned out. The stator is essentially one half of a motor, it interacts with the tub by creating a strong electro-magnet. If the stator burns out the washer won't spin or agitate. Check the stator for continuity. This part is often misdiagnosed. Transmission or clutch assembly not engaging due to going out or slipping. Door or Lid Latch Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the lid switch assembly might be defective. This is a very common problem. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any electrical switches with an Ohm meter for continuity. The switches should have continuity according to their design. Door Lock Motor and Switch Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the door lock assembly should be checked. The door lock can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any switches on the door lock with an Ohm meter. The switches should have continuity according to their design. Motor Control Board If the washer won't spin or agitate the motor control board might be defective. The motor control board provides power to the motor as well as direction and force. If the motor control board is defective the washer may not work at all or function properly. CHECK THE CAM DOGS INSIDE THE AGITATOR, AS THEY WILL HINDER THE AGITATION PROCESS. However in G.E models the cam dogs are replaced with what is called an agitator coupler. (located at bottom of tub) Remember to check the agitator spline as well for worn broken teeth. By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!

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check pump for blockage

The FE code is an excessive water supply if the water is continuously running into the machine it may be due to a failing inlet valve or stuck float switch since you mentioned the drain pump filter being changed it could be that the old filter was restricting the flow.

dry bearings probly

No agitation? first use a meter and check ur water pressure switch? that is what sends the machine the message to start wash cycle? You can test it with a meter and with a manual test? ( first locate it in the panel, it has a plastic clear tube hose going into it, remove that tube from its connection, now put another small tube or hose into the slot where it was and have the machine set to wash cycle with water in it. Blow into the other end of the tube. If the machine starts to wash. the pressure switch is more than likely good. now take the original hose tube and plug one end and blow into it the other end, it should be hard and have pressure, if it is easy to blow and u dont feel any pressure and it feels like the air is going out ? sometimes they get busted open or a pin hole and release air causing the water switch diaphram to not open. If both check ok then next CHECK the motor coupler or belt if belt driven.check with a multi meter for continuity the door switch, and if there is a little movement on wash cycle in 1 direction only then check the cam dogs in agitator. No spin, try these: Using a multi meter check for continuity the door switch, which when bad may not allow agitation or spin. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Check the clutch, brake assembly and transmission, one way to check for slipping is to get under the machine after a spin cycle ( this is if u get a lil spin but not much leaving clothes still wet) mix in a spray bottle a lil water and some dish detergent, then spray it on the clutch assembly ( the metal round pc. Connected to the tranny) if it sizzles and steams up then u know its bad and slipping. Another way to check clutch if u get no spin at all? Is to take it out and use ur hand to try and turn the inner spring assembly pushing it around the inside? If its very easy, it BAD should be hard to push by hand. Next check the motor coupler which engages the tub and tranny to the motor. ( if its bad u usually get no wash or spin or very little of either) Next check for a loose, worn or broken belt if belt driven.

its called the water inlet valve. they should have a rubber washer in each end of the hose and if they go bad , u get leaks.

first try unplugging and waiting a minute and then plug in and see if that resets it. if it does not try unplugging, wait a minute, hold power button in for 15 secs and then plug back in and see if that resets it. and finally, try the second one and continue to hold power button in while plugging back in. all are different ways of resetting some washer models. one might work for you and cannot hurt to try. good luck

Any error codes?

try jimmie,s on e bay

think logic stuff made in turkie

drum has to b removed then split

The dE error or fault code indicates that the door is not latching properly. Check the lid or door operation to be sure it's not binding and that the door alignment is correct. Also, check the door/lid hinges to be sure they're not binding. Finally, make sure the door catch is in place and not broken. You may need to replace the door hook/catch or the door lock assembly.

According to page 21 of the owner's manual, the following are known error codes: IE= Water Inlet Error, OE=Drain Error, UE=Unbalance Error, dE=Door Error, tE=Thermistor Error, FE=Overfill due to Faulty Water Valve, PE=Water Level Sensor Error, CE and LE=different Motor Errors, and PF=Power Failure. its a motor error check the brushes

The PDF Owner's Manual from Product Support contains error codes. It is not the exact same model but frequently the same product line uses similar components with similar error codes. Its worth a look anyway. Hope this helps.

The control panel has a problem, check it or replace it

Tell me what exact model and brand you carry