Top 20 Miele WT945 Front Load Washer / Dryer Questions & Answers

Hi dear. It is very complicated work. I can suggest you should not involve doing that but if you know what you are doing try that out. See if it helps. Common problem: Stuck drying air fan shaft. 1- Unplug machine from power. Remove top cover. 2- RHS at the back,on outer drum horizontally mounted motor,drives a belt. 3- Try to rotate motor shaft (impeller) by hand, see if it's hard to rotate. Try to make it free to rotate. 3- If you have a capacitance meter, check value of capacitor should be in range of 2.5 uF if not replace capacitor. Beyond that you need to get tech. to assist your machine. I hope that helps so far. Thanks.

is water coming out of the hose or the plastic housing? if the hose then it has a hole or tear, if the housing then the pump needs replacement

I think you will find it could be the circuit board. Have a look on line for a replacement because it should be easy to fit and save your self a fortune for a repair man!

It means the NTC sensor reading is not what is expected. This is my experience when it happened on my machine when for some reason (still not known) the thermal cutout on the dryer tripped. This could have been due to an uneven load causing excessive shaking as I recall doing a towel wash recently.The next time a drying cycle was done there was no heat to the drum and the machine thinks there may be a fault with the NTC senser that reads the temperature of the drum, as its not reading as high as it would normally. This causes it to flash the Washing light, and store an F3 error code in memory.As this code relates to the temperature sensor the machine can't trust it to regulate the wash temperature so it effectively disables the water heater. The next wash cycle will be too cold. Again the machine will see the unexpected temperature and flash the Washing light.In my case the code is F3 as the sensor isn't short (F1) or open (F2) just reading an unexpected value (F3).At this stage this looks like a heater fault but I seem to be lucky because there is no fault with the NTC sensor (it correctly measures 13KOhms at room temperature (24 degrees)), no fault with the heater element (reads about 24 Ohms), no fault with the heater relay and no obvious problem with the control board. If any of these are faulty they would need to be replaced. I don't know anything about the thermal breaker at this point. It seems like the control board might be faulty because it doesn't even try to turn on the water heater relay, but I think it behaves this way as a safety measure because it has a temperature sensor related fault stored and so it would be unsafe to turn on the heater. There is no obvious way of seeing the error code, I wonder if a number of these control boards have been replaced when they only required the code cleared.To Read/Clear the error code, you go to service mode:( ) Turn off machine( ) both dials to 12 o'clock( ) Close door( ) press and hold Soak and Water Plus buttons ( ) Power on machine( ) Release buttons when the LEDs on the right wake up.Now turn the Washing knob anti-clockwise one step to Rinse out fluff position. If the display shows "c" then there are no faults (ie 'c'orrect) otherwise it shows F, then the code. Turn off the machine now to clear it. Then go back into service mode and verify there are no faults (c)The machine is now caplable of washing, but it failed again when asked to dry. After finding and resetting the thermal cutout breaker at the top of the machine and clearing the code again, it now drys properly as well..If the breaker trips again (try it with extra dry setting perhaps) maybe need to replace it, and/or defluff the dryer? It seems OK so far.

Water input normally moves powder. Was there water going in?

Clean the filter!

clean the filter Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_2f6e03df6c124197

you may try cleaning the inlet screen by removing the fill hose.then pry the ccreen out with a small screwdriver. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dude_653d05454b389bba

This happened after we cleaned the filter, and it was because it's easy to put it back crookedly and the threads cross. Make sure you are pointing it down a bit and don't force it for the first 3 turns so you know the threads are correctly engaged. You have to use a bit of welly after - when it's right the cap is inside the housing by a few mm all around its circumference

take the back off the heater has 1 10m nut in the middle and 2 wires on it take off wires undo 10m nut prize off the heater it is compressed in a rubber it might take a bit of force the best thing to do before this is to test the heater with a multi meter 1st if there is no reading across the two terminals the heater has gone get a new heater and have a look at it you will see what holds it in

Hi Dear. As I know,your machine does not have replaceable fuse in it. Thanks.

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
No- there should be no water left after each cycle- wash, rinse, spin. Musty smell is probably coming from the (wrongly) remaining waste water.

(the following is pre-typed- I cannot type that fast!)

I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor/pump lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not even go to rinse or spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
Following are my complete and generic guidance notes for checking both the drain motor filter and the drain motor ;-0)

REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT (alternatively use a wet vac as sensibly suggested by VinnyB1234!)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!). These panels are either held on by (plasic) screws or will just pull off. Most filters are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play.
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning.

If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,

I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor/pump lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not even go to rinse or spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
Following are my complete and generic guidance notes for checking both the drain motor filter and the drain motor ;-0)
REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT (alternatively use a wet vac as sensibly suggested by VinnyB1234!)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!). These panels are either held on by (plasic) screws or will just pull off. Most filters are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play.

It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning.

If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,

Sounds as if it is not screwed in correctly possibly due to limescale in and particularly around the thread for the cap. If you have not unscrewed the cap to clear/clean the filter before, it would be a good idea to do so. I have included the whole procedure after the cap removal bit BUT PLEASE READ THROUGH ABSOLUTELY ALL OF THESE NOTES FIRST ;-0)
(By the way the following are pre-typed 'cos I cannot type that fast!)

Cap removal
Suggestions-
pour anticalc/limescale fluid into any gap there is around the cap. Empty the machine and you can switch it off providing the door is open! Then pour the contents of at least 2 sachets of proprietary anticalc powder/liquid into the drum direct together with a kettle full of boiling water. Leave overnight at the very least. The following day run just a spin cycle as then there will be no water diluting the mix. This mix will go through the filter and motor and is likely to help release the filter/cap. If you feel like it, do the overnight again. If nothing else it will ensure that the heater element is clean!
I had to spend a couple of hours gently turning the cap back and forth until it finally released its hold- but the filter did not remain attached to the cap by its rubber ring. More patience, anticalc fluid and all was revealed!
I now run an anticalc clean regularly............which reminds me..............!
Filter
Following are my complete and hopefully 'coverall' pre-typed guidance notes for checking both the drain motor filter and the drain motor ;-0)
REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT (alternatively use a wet vac as sensibly suggested by VinnyB1234!)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!). These panels are either held on by (plasic) screws or will just pull off. Most filters are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play.
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning.

If these have assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not even go to spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
Here are my complete guidance notes for checking both the drain motor filter and the drain motor ;-0)
-------------------------------------

If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!) and most are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play!

REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT!
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. If it doesn't work then the motor is malfunctioning!

Hope the filter is the problem and good luck!
John C

Open the door manually.
Open the drain flap on front left bottom
The door release can be seen hanging, pull the cord, the door will open.
Close and open the door 2 or 3 times and your machine will work ok.

S. Datta
Bickley

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,

Sorry but I do not know your particular machine BUT I would suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor lint tray/filter.
Here are my complete, general pre-typed guidance notes for checking filters and motors ;-0)
-------------------------------------
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!) and held in by a round cover/knob.

REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT!

It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. If it doesn't work then the motor is malfunctioning!

Hope the filter is the problem and good luck!
John C

Two small screws at the back and one on either side (behind little covers)

There are two hinges at the back, so lift off from the front up.

I've published some 'Tips' on the WT945's dryer problems. Hope these help, particularly stage 2 - you may have a buildup of fluff inside the dryer fan, which reduces drying power, even if the fan itself is still turning properly.

http://www.fixya.com/support/r4177912-miele_wt945_dryer_problems_stage_stage

http://www.fixya.com/support/r4177920-miele_wt945_dryer_problems_stage_1_fix

http://www.fixya.com/support/r4177928-miele_wt945_dryer_problems_stage_2_fix

http://www.fixya.com/support/r4177934-miele_wt945_dryer_problems_stage_3_4_fix