20 Most Recent Miele Novotronic Premier 500 Front Load Washer Questions & Answers

3 dashes (or bars) in our Miele W1119 washer display. Beeping. All lights are off and machine is not working. Miele service call: the light bulb in the drum was loose! He pushed it back in and the machine worked fine again. This solution is nowhere to be found. Only in the service manual according to the service tech.

We had the same problem on a Premier 500 and solved it by tilting the machine forward. Some more water ran out and the lights went off.

Hi,

The only Miele spare parts are direct from Miele or through a Miele service agent. Have a look on the Miele website for your nearest Miele branch or service agent in your country.
I work for Miele and they only sell parts this way. if you call the Miele spare parts number off the website and tell them what model washing machine you have and they will be able to mail one to you or advise a service technician to have a look at it.

Hope this helps.

Mine did it and it was the water heater relay which had ‘welded’ it’s contacts. I cleaned them up and away it went. Some years later the relay then occasionally stopped working so I replaced it with a second hand spare and machine continues to run well.

Hello mc2739,
It's been awhile for me since I have done this so I searched on the internet and found the following. The instructions are pretty detailed. You may want to contact Miele if any problems

1. Open the machine door.
2. Turn the main power off and unplug the machine from the wall.
3. Completely remove the powder dispenser drawer (it will come out so far (and stop), then there is a small button at the rear of the dispenser which you need to depress to remove it fully, you'll see this button once you've withdrawn the drawer to its stop position.
5. Undo and remove the 3 x hexagonal head bolts surrounding the door seal (they are at approximately the 2, 6 and 10 o'clock positions). Note these bolts actually secure the front panel to the machine chassis, they do not retain the door seal. Don't worry the front will not drop off.
6. Now look at the aperture of the powder dispenser drawer (you have of course removed the actual drawer earlier). Locate the lower left hand corner of the aperture, and you'll see a recessed philips head screw in a hole. Undo and remove that screw.
7. Now, you'll need to get on your hands and knees. You DO NOT need to tilt, or lift up the washing machine to do the next bit. Locate the underside of the front panel right at the bottom. You'll notice that it sticks out about half an inch or so and is proud of what I would call the kick plate which extends right down to the floor. You need to look on the underside of the front panel, about an inch or so in from the left hand edge. There you will see a spring loaded clip which when closed is located within a slot on the underside of the front panel. Using a flat bladed screwdriver, you need to carefully lever the spring clip open whilst gently pulling the whole front panel (from the left side) ajar. It will just suddenly pop out once you've done it.
8. Open the pump access door lower left hand side of the front panel) and unclip the drain tube from its plastic retaining clip.
9. Now carefully swing open the whole front panel, it opens like a door (hinged on the right hand side). It might be a little stiff as there are a whost of leads attached to it, but it is designed to open fully (with the leads attached) to about 90 degrees.
10. Next, unseat the rubber door seal from around the door opening area (on the chassis, not the front panel, obvioulsy), so that the seal the flops away from the chassis and lies just inside the machine.
11. You will notice that there is a thin steel band holding the door seal in place around the drum. On the right hand side (at about the 3 o'clock position), you'ss see a tensioning screw for the band. With a flat bladed screwdriver undo this completely and remove the screw (it is accessible from above with a long screwdriver). Be aware that there is 1 x washer and 1 x 'nut' type fitting that will fall out when you remove the screw. Locate these and retain them for later.
12. Now extend the steel band to its maximum opening (by moving the 2 x lugs apart where the now removed screw was).
13. You can now remove the steel band. Then pull it out through the hole/door aperture in the chassis.
14. Locate the small rubber tag at about the 12 o'clock position where the seal is attached to the drum and tug it. The seal will then come away from the drum. Remove the old seal completely.
15. Using your new seal, place this correctly around the drum (there is a lip on the seal and this has to go over the lip on the drum. Remember, the seal goes on the OUTSIDE of the drum. Ensure the 'tag' is at the 12 o'clock position.
16. Reassembly is then the reverse of removal.
17. Make sure that you do up the retaining steel band sufficiently and that you correctly locate the sela on the chassis front panel (there is a groove in the seal which will locate the seal in the aperture).
18. Finally, once you're done, put the machine through a few rinse cycles (where the water level is high) and look for leaks. If you have a leak, it is likely that your door seal has a rip/tear, or that it has not been correctly located around the drum - in which case you'll need to investigate.

The flood protection device has activated. This is caused by a leak in the machine. It can also be caused if you are not careful when checking the drain pump,water may have gone back into appliance and activated flood protection device. If this is the case Tip machine forward,water in base of appliance will run out, and appliance will work.

Just wanted to mention mine was retaining the fabric softener and skiping steps in the cycle and intake red light was flashing too. Once
I cleaned the draw and used a toothbrush to unblock the holes in the ceiling its working again perfectly. Miele Novatronic W 828.

the only way to do this is to take the top off and push the drum to the rear of the machine and use a stubby screwdriver to loosen the two or only one of the metal clips that keep the flange in place retighten and bobs your uncle it should be done without an expensive engineer callout charge eric

in the user manual there should be a section on advancing the programs on and or in the section of trouble shooting I would take the water outlet pipe and lay it near the ground to drain the water out into a bucket and then as the machine is not plugged in you should be able to open the door in a not on position eric

Hi it seems that one of the machine motors have burnt out, normally its the waste water pump that has got debris stuck in it, unplug the mains lead and remove the water inlet pipe after turning off the water isolation tap pull out and tilt the machine to access the smaller of the two motors if necessary replace please get an electrician to check the motor for you and reconnect hers hoping this small bit of advice helps you cheers eric

main wash and rinse lights both flashing together and machine stopped

Do you mean it blow the fuses in the house? Must be an electric problem with it. Something is overloading the unit perhaps electric shorting in a switch. Ask an electrician, that is safest if you do not have experience with electricity.

During rinse, water usually flows through the softener dispenser. The cup fills up and a small siphon tube triggers a siphon actionwhich pulls the softener and water into the washer. This siphon tube is probably blocked with crud. See if you can pull a small cap like part out of the softener dispenser area. Clean both the inside of the cap and the hole under it. This will allow the water to flow into washer instead of flooding.

Bearings are in bad shape ergo used up. Recycle it as repairing it is to expensive.

Check door latch spin switch I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/howard_977676954994c5b2

hope video link helps, check out pump draining problems press the helpful button How to Diagnose Washing Machine Drain and Pump Problems