Refrigerant oil leak perhaps. You don’t want to breath that stuff in your home. Need to call licensed technician for inspection or repair. Could also be an old item in your fridge or freezer. Check that in detail before you call the service man.
Whatever sends power to compressor is the problem. Depending on model, either a thermostat or a control board is bad. If it is auto defrost, the defrost timer or control may be bad.
First, I'm not a Frigidaire representative.
*Check your warranty. You should call vendor for service.
* Note; Check as refrigerators usually have long warranty.
*** The following is for information only.**
* First check if the water faucet (valve) is turned on.
* first check if you have water from the water dispencer. No? then there is a clog. (note; older GE fridge) ; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cjShdHoiiJw
* He suggest checking filter then the water solenoid. (requires getting into the guts of box. (may void warranty.)
* Check if the filter is seated and locked. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9x4Q_k9czzU
* Change filter (if stuck); https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yeWmjDO-kZI
* Water okay? Then check Ice maker; Perform "Harvest Test"; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LQQHNHHM4QE
* Not "Harvesting"? (not running) ; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LQQHNHHM4QE
* Another "Replacement" of ice maker; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v0kh3RVcNZo
* Good example of "freeze up"; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KsV-Zno92Fk
*** For older models:
* I've had this problem a lot with my old fridge. Water line works but no ice.
* Check if the "Ice Full" leaver is in the down (no ice) position. Some ice makers will lock the leaver (a stiff wire) in the full position to manually shut off ice maker. Make sure it swings up and down when ice tray is empty.
* Sometimes when the tray is left full of ice for a week or more then the tube feeding water will freeze up. Defrosting the freezer on a regular basis will help. A quick fix is to pour warm water in the ice maker section (where the ice is formed). This will help melt the clogged pipe and also make some ice while your waiting. You may have to do this several times. But at least you have ice.
* This (freezing up) may also be caused by the freezer set too cold. The temperature dial should be in the middle. But turning it colder and colder over time will cause ice to build up and prevent foods from freezing properly (thus turning the dial down colder.) Once your maxed out on the dial. You will find the freezer gets warm and things get covered in frost crystals.
* Transfer food to another refrigerator and perform a complete defrost by leaving it unplugged and the door open (freezer section).
* Frequently check and dump water at bottom of fridge. Clean the dust on coils while down there.
* A fan blowing into the freezer section helps. (Do NOT use a heated fan as it will warp the plastic and over pressure the refrigerate.)
* Once defrosted (+4 hours). Power up the freezer and set the temperature dial to mid point and the freezer diverter to middle or normal setting. Don't put the food back in yet. Wait till the freezer gets down to normal freeze temp (about 0 to 10F)
* Move freezer back in place (if you moved it to access plug) then slowly put back the food. Try not to cram stuff in. Leave space for air to flow freely around items.
* Final, Call for service anyway and have them perform yearly service. Check your warranty.
Aloha, ukeboy57
Side-by-side refrigerators typically have a defrost system that automatically defrosts the freezer periodically. The freezer stops cooling to turn on the defrost heater, but should resume cooling after about an hour. If the timer fails, the freezer will never defrost and ice will continue to build up on the coils, stopping all air glow over the coils. This will prevent the freezer from cooling properly and it will give the impresdion that it's failing. Only the freezer cools, the air is circulated into the refrigerator and cools it (only less so) which gives thd appearance that it's working properly (except it's probably not cooling to the proper temperature of ~40° F.). The fix is to replace the defrost timer. If you can locate its location on your unit, it usually involves unscrewing and unplugging the old unit and installing the new one. You will need you brand and model number when you get a new one.
Damper between fridge and freezer may be open too much. If it’s manual, just adjust it. If it’s electronic, you made need to call for service. Also could be thermostat related.
Evaporator coils should have uniform frost pattern over whole coil. If there is a block of ice only at top, your unit most likely has a freon leak and is low on freon. If whole evaporator coil is a block of ice, then it’s a defrost problem.
The fan should run with the closed door switch. If you can get to it, does it freely spin? It was correctly reconnected when changed? You did check Voltage on motor? If it is there and motor doe not run, yes it would be bad. Diconected motor can be checked with Ohm meter setting, it should show a circuit.
