20 Most Recent Dell E173FP 17" LCD Flat Panel Monitor - Page 7 Questions & Answers

check the cable who comes from the cpu

Sorry not a solution - but I have started experiencing the exact same problem over the last month although sometimes, on switching on again, it will run for 10-15 minutes before the problem re-emerges. Initially I put it down to the v. hot weather in July but it still continues. So I would also appreciate any solutions!

I ended up fixing my problem, but I'm not sure what the solution is. I had some faulty electrical equipment that I was using to power the monitor (220V to 110V converter and a bad power strip) and I got rid of them. I was using the converter because I moved to Israel and I thought I needed to feed the monitor only 110V, but I now realize that the power cord for the monitor has a built-in converter that accepts 220V input. Now the monitor is plugged directly into the wall and is working fine. Try using a different power source (maybe the wiring or plug you're using is faulty). Good Luck!

All flat screens use a backlight (or sometimes 2 backlights). Going by the colours you mentioned, i'd asume it's those you are talking about.

If each of those 4 plugs is just 2 wires each, using small connections that can only fit one way round, then those are just your backlight wires, and you do not need to plug them into specific sockets, they are AC - avoid touching them while it's plugged in as they are hi-power. But you can plug them in any configuration. They will usually only reach as far as they need to - never pull or stretch them to get them to reach a different socket.

If your power light stays orange, it sounds like it may have more problems than that tho. It should come on, usually go green for a few seconds, they go orange when it finds no PC attached.

Typically, problems with TFT screens relate to either a complete mainboard failure, or more often, the 30 pin or 20 pin flat ribbon cable is not connecting properly. This is the part where the ribbon lays flat on the back of the actual screen. They are a stupid design, and prone to failure & random working even if the screen has not been moved or used. That is why they usually have so much strong securing tape over them - the manufacturers must have realised the flat connection fails too easily.

**This information is relevant to ALL TFT screens, including some laptop designs too**

Here is what I would try, uninstall the drivers that came with the monitor, go to dell's site and download the latest drivers for that monitor
Check all wiring make sure everything is in snug.
If none of that helps then I would look toward the video.
At least there are somethings to check before you put a shoe through the thing...be patient,
Hope this helps my friend, good luck, please leave rating, thank you kindly

How do I change the backlight

rtutt, First, before you start to tear apart the monitor any further, take pic's (close-ups) of screws, cables and their positions BEFORE detaching them from their board mounted jacks. Second, the fuse will be a small pigtail type soldered to the power supply board. It's the board that will have the connector on it that the line cord plugs into from outside the plastic cover. This is Pretty neat for you because if you forget where something goes, you can always open up another monitor. Well if you get the steel shield cover removed (BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO RIP OFF ANY CABLES OR MULTI CONDUCTOR RIBBON FLEX CABLES) the cables can then be popped off. you can probably catch a video of monitor tear-down on YOUTUBE.com by doin a search on LCD repair. Yes I have seen some that are 8 to 12min long on the tube. Also you will be visually checking all large electrolytic capacitors for SWOLLEN tops of their aluminum can. You will need a large magnifying glass to inspect the solder side of the board for circular hairline fractures around the leads of heavy and larger "through-hole components, that have been thermally/mechanically STRESSED over the years. they will need to be resoldered. Well any way, keep me posted of your progress. Im louie12fix or lmistyrel@ aol.com PS: I have dell and will take pic's of board!!

Does it turn off after a certain mount of time when it's not being used? Or does it turn off and on when your using it.

You can buy Power Outlets for Cars.

http://www.coolest-gadgets.com/20070417/real-power-outlets-in-your-car/

Check out this link http://www.lcdrepair.us/Installation.html
They have help videos on that model and sell repair kits as well as the whole board.

if it is under warranty send it back if not, open it up you can usually smell a bad component inside a TV or monitor. also look at the ends of the component if they are dark in color you can probably bet that this is a good place to start.

you can also get a LED and a battery and hand test each part (if it blinks) you may question, you can also use a volt meter.

Dell buys there parts from china and some of the Capacitors and Rectifiers are cheap.

you can order these parts off the net for mer pennys or pull them from other electronics always research the numbers on the actual parts.

AN EASIEST WAY IS HOLD THE CTRL AND ALT KEYS,AND CLICK THE "UP" KEY

Hi, First of all it is not advisable to open up monitors without proper tools as they contain hazardous elements. Dell monitors however do have a 3 year SEPARATE warranty. Check on the back of the monitor and look for the monitor serial number. is should start with CN-xxxxx-,, or JP-XXXXX-. give that to a dell tech and they should be able to replace that.

I have an E152FP and I was having the exact same problem...my fix was just to turn down the brightness below 60 and I have not had a problem since. Hope this helps...

My power button broke free and in case you're still trying, I was just successful with this hint on my 19" version of this monitor. I used two small screwdrivers, and with the monitor face-down on a pillow, I started with the left notch (near the kensington lock hole). The secret trick was to pry the notch with the first screw driver, hold it with my right hand, then take the second screwdriver and push in just to the left of that gap, and the first "catching-mechanism" popped free, releasing the whole corner. Continue working your way around, but pushing in to release the next catches, not so much twisting (less tearing up your monitor that way, too) - four across the top and bottom, three along the edges. Unfortunately, I do not have a way to post pictures.

Hi frecklesface,

Remember, when dealing with monitors, the process of elimination is the best. To elaborate this, it means, connect a similar monitor (if you can convince someone to lend you temporarily just to check if it works on your PC) if that works fine, then your monitor is faulty but if the other monitor behaves in the same manner as yours, then the fault could be in the Graphics section of your motherboard. (whether onboard or a graphics card whatever might be the case)

There is one more thing you might be missing out. Go to Display settings in your Control Panel and in that go to the Settings tag in that click on the Monitor Tag and in that check the frequency in Hertz that is selected. change that one by one and see if that helps. Only if your efforts here prove futile, then do as I told you earlier in this note.

If the monitor is found to be faulty, get it rectified by taking it to an authorised service center but if the motherboard's graphics section is faulty then ther are 2 options...
1.) If the graphics is an On-board one (which they normally are nowadays) then disable it from CMOS and add an external graphics card in either AGP or PCI (anyone you get from the market... depends on your requirements) restart and see if this helps. I feel its the best logical way it could be done.

These monitors are a pain to open up. The inverter circuit for the backlight is on the right side of the monitor when veiwed from the front, part is c5707(marked) or 2sc5707(actual part number) around $1, there are 4 of them, one or 2 usually fail. Sometimes this failure can cause damage to one or more of the corresponding transformers which can can be visibly be seen affecting(melted) the yellow wrap. Be sure to check for dry joints around the affected area as the boards are very badly made, primarily around these transistors and transformers or the fault could reoccur soon after the repair. The same fault occurs in the dell 19", part number is 2sc5706. I hope this helps you out.

Problem with Invertor board transistors,2SC5707.
Samir.

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