20 Most Recent Hotpoint WMA40 Front Load Washer Questions & Answers

normally, front loading machines have this bypass cables in case this things happens, if there is a small opening at the front to acces the drain filter, open it up then look for a small plastic pc with a ring at the end. this is the pull release cable of the door lock. pull it downwards and the door will be released.

if you do not have the small opening to access the drain filter, you can tilt the machine to its back, ( be carefull, its very heavy) then reach for the plastic ring underneath to pull to release the door lock.

tnx 4 using fixya..

drcool

check bearings and belt

check inlet valves

Best to watch this video on youtube which explains it in detail

the best way to do this is to lay the machine on its soap dish side on the floor ..the sump hose is the one from the tub to the pump

hi take the band of rubber just inside door take soap draw out take screws out holding panel this comes of dont pull wires of control panel or mark were they go take kick plate off you have screws holding bottom of panel top ones are under top panel take two screws holding catch out were door clips in push panel up you can get to front of drum to take off takes about 15 min oh sorry top off 1st hope this helps

Hotpoint WMA40 washing machine is leaking This video will show you how to find that leak on any front loading washing machine Please remember to subscribe to our YouTube channel for all appliance tutorials a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question. And don't forget to like us on facebook

I would guess something is blocking the drain pump. Collar stays are enemies with drain pumps, couldn't tell you how often I run into that.

Click on Brushes

For module configuration information on Hotpoint WMA range of machines go to www.selfix-uk.co.uk and click on the ERROR CODE link.

You will need to replace the carbon brushes. Take a look at this site.

that's your motor brushs need to replace them

Hi,
Here is a tip that I wrote about that...

Stop Washing Machine Smell, Mold, and Mildew
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3993813-stop_washing_machine_smell_mold_mildew

heatman101

They have to be stretched tight, so it will appear a little small. Put the belt over the motor spindle first, now guide it onto the large drive wheel of the drum, hold the belt in the correct place on the large wheel as you slowly spin it to draw it onto the wheel and it will fit. Easy.

Now then, the nasty nasty bit and I hope I'm completely wrong here!

I have once and only once ever come across a washing machine that needed a belt replaced because the belt was faulty. 99 times in a hundred, if the belt has "fallen off" and "keeps falling off" it's because of another problem. They can't simply fall off because they have nowhere to go except on the track they are set on. If your belt has fallen off, I would put good money on there being an underlying problem with the main bearings in the drum failing, allowing the inner drum to "flop about". and allowing sufficient latteral movement in the the large drive wheel for the wheel to wobble and allow the belt to slip off.

To test your bearings, open the door of the machine and by putting a little lifting pressure on the top of the inner drum, attempt to rock the stainless steel inner drum up and down.

The outer drum is mounted on springs and shock absorbers, so it will rock about (and it should do this) but the inner drum should not move up and down in relation to the outer drum. There should be ABSOLUTELY NO PLAY between the 2 drums, even the tiniest amount will mean the bearings have failed.

If the bearings are bad enough then other symptoms will typically include:

A clonking noise as you lift and release the inner drum (this is the inner drum rattling on its bearings and/or hitting the outer drum)

You will have become aware of the spin cycle becoming far noisier recently and possibly even a grinding crunching noise when the machine spins.

The drum may feel like something is crunching or stopping you turning it when you spin it by hand with the door open.

A leak from under the machine, which you will probably be able to trace to the back of the machine, coming from the centre of the drum. This is a result of the failing bearing allowing water to escape through the seal at the rear.

This is NOT a job for the uninitiated DIY enthusiast as it will mean stripping the machine and removing the drum from the chassis, splitting it, removing pressed in bearings and then sourcing and re-fitting new bearings.

To be frank, the cost of a bearing set (if they are replaceable, and most are) will be about £20 ($30) or so. But it's a long and horrible job if you haven't done it before. I know professionals who claim they can do a bearing change in under an hour, I've done a few and it takes me about 2 hours by the time I've ripped the machine apart and reassembled it after the bearing swap. A local repairer will probably attend and swap out your defective drum for a refurbished one and then take yours away so he can refurbish it and put it back in his stock. Sadly, this will take the price up to the point where you need to question if the expense is worth it or do you get a new machine instead.

Feel free to drop a comment back on this thread if I can provide more help.

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
(no promises but try this!)
I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor/pump lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not even go to rinse or spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
Here are my complete and generic guidance notes for checking both the drain motor filter and the drain motor ;-0)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!). These panels are either held on by (plasic) screws or will just pull off. Most filters are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play.

REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT (alternatively use a wet vac as sensibly suggested by VinnyB1234!)
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning.

If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C

This sound like the main control board has blown and this is due to the motor shorting out, if you isolate the power supply and remove the control panel you will be able to remove the pcb/module and inspect it for signs of burning or split tracks if you find this is the case usually it is cheaper to replace the machine than purchase a pcb and motor.

Regards

Ian

may have something stuck between the inner and outer drum...... socks tights and womens skimpies very easily slip down at the bottem door seal.... afraid the machine needs a total strip down if this is the case. remove the door and front panels, the drum has a front cover held on by a number of clips..... remove all clips take cover off....find said item and put back together shouldnt take more than an hour.. if it isnt that,.then rear bearing could be shot at,, sorry
cheers