Top 20 Hotpoint Aquarius WMA42 Front Load Washer - Page 4 Questions & Answers

Disconnect the machine from the power and water supply and open the access panel on the back. You'll see a drive belt engaging onto a large wheel which is bolted to the drum. Turn the machine by hand (watch your fingers!) and check for loose parts.

If that's all OK then the the drum bearings have likely failed. The parts are relatively cheap, but unless you are an experienced mechanic it's definitely not a DIY job. Even for a pro it's a bit of a pig, as the old bearing does not come out easily and removing or refitting can ruin the outer drum. If the shaft seal is damaged the machine will leak, and whilst repairing the machine it's easy to break the cast alloy drum spider.

Customers tend not to be pleased when the job goes wrong or entails extra work for reasons beyond the control of the repairer, and professional repairers have a high chance of a non-paying recall if the machine leaks afterwards or if the new bearing didn't go in perfectly squarely. Officially the answer is to fit a complete new drum assembly which is not cheap.

On Merloni Group appliances like yours, the bearings tend to only just last the expected 5 year maximum design lifespan (4 years or less for 1200 spin speed models), and when they fail you can usually expect many other components to be worn out and waiting to fail. Replacement bearings don't last anywhere near as long, typically about 9 months to 2 years at best.

Your machine is likely about 7 years old now, so the best option is to chuck it away and buy another. Preferably not Merloni Group (Hotpoint, Cannon, Indesit, Creda) as they're all unreliable. German machines are generally very good, as are Samsung, although in recent years Bosch are no longer anywhere near as reliable as they once were, although the closely-related Siemens machines which use most of the same parts are still good as are AEG and Miele.

Merloni might be relatively cheap, but you end up buying them twice as often as machines which don't cost twice as much.

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,

It is unable to drain and many machines will not even go to rinse or spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor/pump lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters.

Following are my complete and hopefully 'coverall' pre-typed guidance notes for checking both the drain motor filter and the drain motor ;-0)

REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT (alternatively use a wet vac as sensibly suggested by VinnyB1234!)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!). These panels are either held on by (plasic) screws or will just pull off. Most filters are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play.
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning.

If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C

This sound like the main control board has blown and this is due to the motor shorting out, if you isolate the power supply and remove the control panel you will be able to remove the pcb/module and inspect it for signs of burning or split tracks if you find this is the case usually it is cheaper to replace the machine than purchase a pcb and motor.

Regards

Ian

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,

That's often what happens- one wash perfectly OK with no signs of trouble THEN the fault/problem occurs. Normal!

I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor/pump lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not even go to rinse or spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
Following are my complete and hopefully 'coverall' pre-typed guidance notes for checking both the drain motor filter and the drain motor ;-0)
REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT (alternatively use a wet vac as sensibly suggested by VinnyB1234!)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!). These panels are either held on by (plasic) screws or will just pull off. Most filters are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play.
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning.

If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C

when you say pipe i believe your refering to drain that washer drain hose fits into?
if that is the case their is nothing wrong with the machine yet the drain pipe is clogged or othewise restricted and needs liquid plumber or a snake to run throught it to clear blockage

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
If the door is not locking there is likely to be a problem with either the door solenoid/lock or the 'door closed' sensor. Both require a service engineer's attention I suggest ;-0(
However if the door is not unlocking at the end of the cycle I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor/pump lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not even go to spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
Here are my complete and generic guidance notes for checking both the drain motor filter and the drain motor ;-0)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!). These panels are either held on by (plasic) screws or will just pull off. Most filters are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play.

REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT (alternatively use a wet vac as sensibly suggested by VinnyB1234!)
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning


If this has assisted and/or clarified the situation for you please consider a 4 thumbs up on our rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C

Hi Roger from retired Englishman in SW France,

Sorry but with such a fault it is virtually impossible for anybody on this forum to remotely guess what is wrong with your washer.
It could be internal wiring/plugs sockets, control panel switches, control PCB, water inlet control valves, door solenoid as primary suspects. Secondary suspects could be main motor, drain motor.
I fear that your only real option is a service call as the engineer will have the right equipment to safely diagnose what is wrong.

If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C

Hi.

Check the drain hose at the back and access the drain filter located at the bottom side of the appliance.

Please click here to read an article showing how to fix common drain problems.

Regards.

Ginko

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,

Check its balance first!
It is necessary to ensure absolutely that the machine has all 4 feet very firmly on the floor, and I mean firmly ;-0)
Doesn't matter whether it is empty or not but switch it off then-
very firmly push one front corner diagonally into the centre of the machine and see if the machine moves or rocks AT ALL, even the slightest. If it does you will need the open-ended spanner which came with the (new) machine........which of course went missing a long time ago?!! An adjustable spanner will suffice.
Adjust the foot under that corner downwards until it is very firmly- almost pushing- against the floor but not so far that the corner lifts up!
If this corner did not rock do the same to the other.
Once you cannot rock the machine the slightest little bit, screw the locking nuts up tight to the underside of the machine so that they will not move. Ideally the rear feet should also be locked.

(If this has not cured the problem it is possible that the internal suspension is malfunctioning but we cannot judge whether it would be possible for you to fix. If you're confident/competent have a look and see. That's probably how many of us started so go for it!)

If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C

http://www.espares.co.uk/advice/washing-machines/a/7/1296/how-to-fix-a-broken-washing-machine-door-hing.html

Hi go to the above espares page where you will find a video on how to replace a door hinge, should show you enough to enable you to replace the door. There are other videos on how to replace the door interlock and release mechanisms as well.

Hope this helps, if it does please remember to rate me

Check the machine filter, clean it and this problem might go away. Use manual for locating the filter.

Obviously it sounds like the water inlet valve is leaking slightly. You have two possible solutions to try.

1. turn the water off & remove the valve to check if there are foreign matter that may have gone past the filters keeping it slightly open hence the leak.
2. You may have to replace.

You will need to use a Y-piece on the cold water valve, any hardware store will have them

• 

Then simply run 2 hoses to the machine from the 1 valve.

Will it not power up at all?
No lights etc?
If there is a power problem I would not recomend touching it yourself at all, pretty dangerous

I think you have gone through all the basic points. But before the work did the machine work perfectly except for the noise? If so I would advice that you must start to check all the points mentioned once again.
Check with the program controller unit. Make sure that the connections to the water level sensors, the door switch , the drain and inlet valves are with good contact. Remove and reconnect. Also check individually the inlet valve for good flow, the drain valve for good flushing , the water level sensor settings must be rechecked-- it is possible a low setting can produce this fault.
If none of the other sections indicate any fault the possible reason can only be that the program controller has errors. Remove off power plug, drain off all voltage from the power board- push down the start/stop to drain residual voltage so as to reset the processor.
I am sure that if the machine worked prior to the work there is possible careless resetting that caused this fault and so you need to go through the circuit ...check for wire damage, door switch fault.

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
The decode for Hotpoint (Indesit) 'f12' is 'communications failure', and is often caused by poor contacts between plugs, cables and the control board. It sounds drastic but is as often cured by re-seating (unplugging and re-plugging) the plugs and cables. Sorry but unfortunately this entails an engineer call ;-0(
Sorry again and good luck,
John C

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,

Sorry but with such a major fault it is virtually impossible for anybody on this forum to remotely guess what is wrong with your washer. We would need to know exactly at what point in the programs it does it ;-0(
It could be internal wiring/plugs sockets, control panel switches, control PCB, water inlet control valves, door solenoid as primary suspects. Secondary suspects could be main motor, drain motor.
I fear that your only real option is a service call as the engineer will have the right equipment to safely diagnose what is wrong.
Also as a help for the future there is no need to change a fuse if it hasn't blown ;-0)
Sorry again and good luck,
John C

Rebecca, try unplugging it and plugging it back in. Your looking for a reset. If that doesn't work, let me know.

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
This sounds very much like the belt is broken or the motor is malfunctioning.
Belt first.
Belts are not expensive- sorry I do not know how much yours would cost- and are easy to be changed by a competent person:-
REMOVE POWER FROM THE MACHINE AND REMOVE THE BACK.
The motor support bolts should be loosened and the old belt removed. Often putting the new belt on is a bit of a struggle, even with the motor 'loose', because it is new and smaller!
Once on it should be tensioned by pulling the motor against the belt firmly- but not over tight- and the motor support bolts tightened.
ON NO ACCOUNT SHOULD ANY FORM OF LEVERAGE BE USED TO TENSION THE BELT. THAT COULD LEAD TO DAMAGE TO THE BELT, MOTOR AND BEARINGS- EXPENSIVE!
If it turns out to be the motor, it is false economy to just have the brushes changed although financially very attractive. Experience of others is that the brushes may only last months unless, that is, the motor is totally refurbished at the same time. It depends on how old the motor is and how much wear the commutator has had. New motors are not cheap, though. Ours for a Bosch cost GBP250- but it's your choice!

If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C

(and again!) Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,

For most Hotpoint (and other named) models 'F07' means 'heater relay (possibly) stuck'. 'Check power supply connections to the heater, wiring and module (i.e. PCB) connections' (apparently poor PCB connections are often the cause)
Good luck,
John C