20 Most Recent
Hotpoint WF430 Front Load Washer Questions & Answers
The door is locked on my hotpoint wf430
the best thing you can do is remove the power lead the take the top panel off and push the drum to the rear and using a small screwdriver remove the lock and replace it from the manufactures website (you can switch off the machine at anytime and restart it by turning it back on and pressing start again depending on the type of machine of course) eric
How to take of front panel and side panel to get at drum
You dont...
Take of top cover, remove top front panel. Remove front, two screws top front, two screws bottom front, loosen the doorlock and door bellow. Disconnect everything on the drum, (motor, dampers, heater, water pressure switch hose ect. Lift the drum out. Good luck.
Door locked no light to say locked no washing
Brusheson motor will be worn. The door lock is in series with the motor so if brushes worn it interrupts the signal telling the board the door is locked. New brushes will likely be all it needs.
HOW DO I FIT NEW BELT TO HOTPOINT WF430 WASHING MACHINE
The easyest way to fit these belts is to locate it on the motor pulley
and as far onto the right hand side of the main pulley (viewed from the
front of the machine) as possible. Hold it on the main pulley with a
cable tie and rotate the drum anti clockwise by turning it from inside.
The belt will be drawn onto the pulley and the cable tie will snap as
it rotates. (Easy)
Hi, I have a Hotpoint
Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
(no promises but it's worth carrying this out anyway!)
I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor/pump lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not even go to rinse or spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
Following are my complete and generic guidance notes for checking both the drain motor filter and the drain motor ;-0)
REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT (alternatively use a wet vac as sensibly suggested by VinnyB1234!)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!). These panels are either held on by (plasic) screws or will just pull off. Most filters are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play.
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning.
If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C
The washer is washing the
Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
This sounds very much like the belt is slipping or the motor is malfunctioning.
Belt first.
Belts are not expensive- sorry I do not know how much yours would cost- and are easy to be changed by a competent person:-
REMOVE POWER FROM THE MACHINE AND REMOVE THE BACK.
The motor support bolts should be loosened and the old belt removed. Often putting the new belt on is a bit of a struggle, even with the motor 'loose', because it is new and smaller!
Once on it should be tensioned by pulling the motor against the belt firmly- but not over tight- and the motor support bolts tightened.
ON NO ACCOUNT SHOULD ANY FORM OF LEVERAGE BE USED TO TENSION THE BELT. THAT COULD LEAD TO DAMAGE TO THE BELT, MOTOR AND BEARINGS- EXPENSIVE!
If it turns out to be the motor, it is false economy to just have the brushes changed although financially very attractive. Experience of others is that the brushes may only last months unless, that is, the motor is totally refurbished at the same time. It depends on how old the motor is and how much wear the commutator has had. New motors are not cheap, though. It's your choice!
Good luck,
John C
Not finding what you are looking for?