20 Most Recent Hotpoint Aquarius WF000 Front Load Washer - Page 6 Questions & Answers

Hi,
If you have a problem with your washeror dishwasher continuing to fillwith water after the valve has closed, then you this tip will help youunderstand why that is happening.

Here is a tip that will help you...

Washer orDishwasher Fills with Water when off
heatman101

unplug for 5 minutes

It is possible that the machine does not start off the cycle because there are errors or feedback from the inputs. For the program to start up the main program controller must initiate the INLET/MOTOR/DRAIN pump/ valve to open up and allow each function to be driven from the flow into the drum as also the drain valve to open to exit the water at the point of the program cycle. If this does not happen then the voltage at the valve/motor/pump must be checked or the fault relates to no voltage from the controller. This means the controller is a suspect.

If the water flows then the flow should be good, if not the inlet valve is bad or there is dirt in the filter. Also check the flow at the inlet of the water line. Once the water comes into the system the WATER LEVEL SENSOR - normally a pressure switch- must activate at the preset/chosen level to give the signal to the program controller to switch on the motor. What is most important for the motor to start functioning is that the door switch must be ON when the door is shut or this will be an error for starting the motor for rinse and wash.

Finally after the wash the drain valve will be activated, the water is allowed to come in to rinse and then finally the dry spin with the drain valve/pump activated so as to drain off all the water from the clothes during the spin.

Make sure that a fault in any of the cycle will relate to the specified action, so check the command from the program module and then the executing device be it the valve or motor or pump.

Please check the link below:

http://www.repairclinic.com/Washing-Machine-Troubleshooting?red=Washing-Machine-Repair-Help

Use a product called "AFFRESH".
You can also use white vinegar.
Pour in one quart and set the cycle to Wash.

There should be a flap or door on the bottom on the front of the machine. Open the flap or door and unscrew the filter.

For error codes and what they mean go to www.selfix-uk.co.uk

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
Start off by checking the machine's balance to ensure effective spinning.
It is necessary to ensure absolutely that the machine has all 4 feet very firmly on the floor, and I mean firmly ;-0)
Doesn't matter whether it is empty or not but switch it off then-
very firmly push one front corner diagonally into the centre of the machine and see if the machine moves or rocks AT ALL, even the slightest. If it does you will need the open-ended spanner which came with the (new) machine........which of course went missing a long time ago?!! An adjustable spanner will suffice.
Adjust the foot under that corner downwards until it is very firmly- almost pushing- against the floor but not so far that the corner lifts up!
If this corner did not rock do the same to the other.
Once you cannot rock the machine the slightest little bit, screw the locking nuts up tight to the underside of the machine so that they will not move. Ideally the rear feet should also be locked.

If this has not cured the problem it is possible that the internal suspension is malfunctioning.

If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
(nearly the same answer as bad smells! Probably ignore 1.)

Bad odours could be coming from a few places.

1. the plumbing u-bend or
2. the fact that there is 'foul' water being left in the drum.
3. No washes at 90 degree+ !

I would suggest checking the plumbing u-bend for trouble first, then following the notes on checking and cleaning the drain filter and the drain pump to ensure there is nothing 'obnoxious' hanging around the two of them! Finally run the occasional 90+ wash to kill bacteria.
Here are my complete and generic guidance notes for checking both the drain motor filter and the drain motor ;-0)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!). These panels are either held on by (plasic) screws or will just pull off. Most filters are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play.

REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT (alternatively use a wet vac as sensibly suggested by VinnyB1234!)
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning.

If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck,
John C

H20 means "Check tap and pressure of incoming water"

Basically, it thinks that you have turned off the water supply or that the water supply pressure is too low.

To fit the belt use a long screwdriver. First put the belt on motor pulley, then try to put the belt on drum wheel as far as you can while holding the belt on motor pulley to ensure that it does not come off. Put the screwdriver between the belt (sideways) and the drum wheel, lever the screwdriver to inside while moving the wheel in clockwise/anticlockwise slowly depending upon where you put the screwdriver at left/right side.

sonsunny

Yes, that's a classic sign of a failed drum bearing. It wi;ll continue to get noisier and may eventually cause a leak from the machine which may cause more expensive repairs if the water and highly corrosive washing solution damages other parts.

The bearing itself is available and can be replaced, but your machine is not designed with bearing replacements in mind. Replacing the bearing involves a near complete strip-down of the machine to completely remove the drum assembly. The outer polypropylene drum will often crack when the old bearing is removed or the new one is refitted and the job is very labour intensive.

The bearing is designed to last the life of the machine, and the machine is only expected to last about four to five years before other parts start to fail as well. If the bearing fails during the warranty then the usual fix is to replace the entire inner and outer drum assembly.

I can't give you a step by step guide, but drum replacement is not cost effective if you have to pay for the repair, and bearing replacement may be worth trying if you know an experienced DIY mechanic and appreciate the risks. The part is relatively cheap, but if the repair fails you've blown money which could have gone towards a new machine. Dismantling to replace the bearing is fairly straightforward and commensense, but on some models the spot welds on the rear of the casing need to be drilled out and they can be replaced with pop-rivets afterwards. A short length of scaffold pole or a large socket can be used to drift out the old bearing and press in the new one. It's also necessary to replace the drive-belt as well, but you can leave that extra cost until you're sure that the bearing replacement has been a success.

Haynes publish a washing machine repair manual; you can either buy it or will often find that it's available at your local public library and it's invaluable if you lack confidence with jobs like these.

If you need to buy another machine, then try to avoid Merloni Group products such as Hotpoint, Indesit, Candy, Ariston. They may be cheap, but they don't last. Brands like LG, Miele, Siemens and AEG don't cost twice as much but they do typically last more than twice as long. Bosch for some reason, definitely aren't as good lately, despite being part of the same group as Siemens. A good quality basic machine will usually serve you far better than a feature-packed Merloni piece of tat.

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
I suspect that it is the conditioner/softener tray which needs a thorough clean, paying particular attention to the sentences in BOLD ;-0)
-------------------------------------
Remove the complete drawer. To do this you will have to do one of the following-

• Top catch- push down the lip/catch at the middle rear and pull the drawer out (that's how our Bosch one is removed)
• release the catches underneath (our daughter's Indesit) or
• lift upwards on the tray as it is coming out to clear the lip underneath.

One of those should enable you remove it
Once out identify which tray is for the conditioner- the others are simply 'chutes' and open-ended.
It will normally have some sort of cover over it which you must remove to expose the little stuck up pipe/tube. On some models there is just a small individual cap over the tube. The tube is down which the conditioner and water should siphon. It is likely to be blocked by 'gunge'- a mix of powder and conditioner. The whole of the tray, particularly this pipe and the bit which fits over it, must be completely clean and clear for it to operate correctly. It is worthwhile checking fairly regularly.

If this does not work, pull out the dispenser drawer far enough to be able to just see the softener tray, select the (final?) rinse and check that water is entering the tray. If it isn't there is a fault with the water distribution and an engineer call is required ;-0(
If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.

Thanks and good luck!
John C

susan,

the way you describe it is typical of a faulty heating element.

remove rear inspection panel and if your lucky you will see a broken spade connection at the heating element.

if no wires are broken an element will be required, part number 1604486 or C00094715, price aprox £20-30

hope this helps

Changing the belt is easy. The reason for changing the belt is the question. If the belt keeps coming off on an aquaruis then it's usually a sign the bearings in the drum are shot. These things hardly ever need a new belt. That aside, I hope you have good reason to change the belt and there is the (Easy) way to do it.

UNPLUG FROM THE POWER SOURCE!!

Take the lid off. On this model I think you will fins a screw, hidden behind a little plastic prise-off cover, on either side of the lid about 2 inches back from the front of the machine.

Unscrew (Torque screws!!! but you MAY get away with a flat screwdriver that fits across the points of the star holes).

With the heel of your hand, strike the top front edge of the lid to make it slip baccwards about a half inch, this releases the clips that hold the back of the lid in place.

At the rear of the machine, at the bottom, there is an oval pannel about a foot wide and six inches deep held on by about 5 or 6 screws. Unscrew and remove the pannel. You can now see the drive spindle on the end of the motor.
Drop the new belt in from the top and hook over the drive spindle (you can see the position the old one was in on the slotted spindle because that portion of the spindle will be cleaner and shinier than the rest.
Now, holding part of the belt, guide it onto the main drum drive wheel (that huge wheel about 2 feet wide.
By turning the drum by hand slowly, you will be able to guide the belt onto the large wheel as you rotate the drum.

Tips:
Having someone spin the drum by opening the door and turning it for you slowly may help

ALWAYS start with the belt on the motor spindle and guide onto the drum wheel, not the other way. You will never get it on if you start with it on the big wheel.

Unless you know the reason for swapping the belt, start worrying.... Occasionally these belts snap. Usually there is an underlying cause if they just "slip off"

Return the program dial to a finished position. Power the machine off (Unplug it). Leave it 20 minutes and it SHOULD reset. Note, if there is water above the level of the door, it is a good idea to pull the machine out and tip it back slightly until the water is not against the door, then you can remove clothes and bail the tub out

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
Here are my complete and generic guidance notes for checking both the drain motor filter and the drain motor ;-0)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!). These panels are either held on by (plasic) screws or will just pull off. Most filters are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play.

REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT.
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning.

If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C

A lot of concerns have been raised about door bellows molding, mildewing, and/or ripping and needing replaced. A replacement bellow isn’t cheap (prices vary, but are around $75-80), so hopefully these helpful steps will eliminate the need to call a repair service and pay the additional labor charges. This is a repair of MODERATE difficulty. Just follow these steps:

1. Unplug the washer.
2. Remove the washer top panel by removing the three torx-type screws (or 7mm) where it attaches in the rear of the washer. The panel should slide back, and then lift off.
3. Remove the operator console by removing the dispenser and the scew(s) behind it. Take a putty knife and insert it under the console seam right above the door. If you push in slightly while pulling outwards the panel pops off. Use care not to pull or damage any of the wiring. You can leave the wires attached and simply lay the console across the top of the washer out of the way.
4. Locate the wire hoop retainer around the rubber door boot. It is located behind the rubber seam where it attaches to the door frame. Follow this hoop around to the bottom of the door opening and locate the wire tension spring. Gently pry this spring apart and pull the wire hoop from the groove. Pull the rubber boot from the frame and push it inside towards the wash tub. You will also have to remove the door boot from the fill tube on the left hand side of the door opening. There is a small wire clamp holding it in place.
5. Remove the three screws that hold the door latch assembly in place. This is on the right hand side of the door opening. You can leave the latch in place as long as you remove the screws and push it inside slightly to remove it from the front casing of the washer.
6. Remove the door by removing the screws holding the hinges in place. Use care to support the door hinges when loosening. They can bend. Set the door aside in a location where it will not get stepped on or broken.
7. Remove the lower kick panel under the door. There are 3 screws under the bottom edge holding it in place. Sometimes the panel can stick. A slight tap on either side will knock it free.
8. Remove the front washer casing by removing the four remaining screws that are holding it in place. There should be two at the top and two at the bottom. Set the front casing aside.
9. Remove the old door boot by locating the large clamp that attaches it to the wash tub. Loosen the 7mm nut and the boot will detach from the tub. Also remove the boot from the fill tube coming from the dispenser.
10. Install new door boot on the wash tub and install clamp. There should be instructions that come with the door boot with guide marks to ensure you align it correctly. Once you have the boot in place, tighten the clamp enough to where it is snug. DO NOT over-tighten or you may damage the tub and or clamp. In most cases the clamp will break.
11. Once you have the boot in place, re-install everything in the reverse order of how I explained to disassemble. Make sure you connect the door latch assembly BEFORE you re-install the outer portion of the door boot. Also, make sure you install the boot completely over the fill tube. There should be a ridge on the tube where to stop. Sometimes the tube is not inserted all way into the boot and water will leak behind it. The clamp is always difficult to get back in place. If you cannot get the clamp to go back over the tube, you can live without it. Some newer models do not have them installed. Just make sure it is a snug fit where the rubber boot fits ALL the way back to the plastic ridge on the tube.
12. When you get the point where you are ready to install the door boot back over the frame of the door opening ensure you fit it snugly all the way around the door. Beginning at the top of the door, start inserting the wire hoop back into the groove. Make sure to wire spring points towards the bottom. As you work your way around the door to the 4 and 8 o'clock positions, you will need to maintain some constant downward pressure while pulling the spring apart in order to snap it back into place. It would be advisable to use a second set of hands to hold the wire hoop in place while doing this as it has the tendency to want to come out of the groove.
13. Once the door boot is back in place, re-install the operator console and washer top.
14. At the operator console, select DRAIN SPIN, NO SPIN and press any button under OPTIONS 4 times (has to be the same button, though). This will place the washer in diagnostics mode. You should hear the door latch lock and "C00" will be displayed on the console. The washer will run through a series of tests filling the tub, tumbling, draining, and then a final spin. If you do not wish to wait for the test to complete you can press CANCEL at any time. The test checks out everything and takes about 15 minutes. Look for any leaks.


Step 6--Removing the door. After you remove the three screws in Step 5, there is only one screw to remove in step 6 on my model. It was hidden behind a plastic cover that makes the hinge look pretty. You'll see on the inside of the door that two plastic prongs/tabs extend into holes in the hinge. If you push on them laterally and pull out, the tabs will pop out. Outside the door on the left side of the machine, you'll see the plastic cover that is connected to those plastic tabs and is hiding the hinge. On the outside cover piece, there is a flat tab that extends up into the plastic housing above it. If you gently pull the cover downward and out the whole plastic cover will come off revealing the one screw that needs to be removed to take the door off.
Step 7--Removing the Kick Panel. The middle screw is more difficult to reach than the sides. You may need an extension for your screwdriver and/or shims or a helper to prop up the washer while you remove the middle screw.
Step 8--Removing the washer casing. The step says to remove the screws and set the casing aside. My model (2005-ish) has wires connected to it. Rather than being able to remove it, it swings open like a door with the wires as the hinge. I simply used a box to prop up the outside part of the door so it did not sag and stress the wires.
Step 9--After you remove the old rubber bellow, you will likely see a lot of dirt, mold, and junk where the bellow was. Clean that stuff off with a cloth sprayed with a gentle cleanser before installing the new bellow. We replaced our bellow because of mold and mildew and bad smelling stuff. That dirt and junk is part of the problem. Clean it up before you install the new clean bellow.

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

most of these machines all you do is to pull drawer out as far as it will come then holding by the sides and not the front of drawer push it in about an inch or so then quickly pull it forward it will come out ok good luck