20 Most Recent Hoover U6437-900 / U6439-900 Windtunnel Bagged Upright Vacuum - Page 8 Questions & Answers

remove the floor plate and pop out the brush wheel -- make sur ethat there is no strings or hair or carpet threads twisted around the brush wheel bearings. clean the best that you can and put the brush wheel back into the inserts on the vacuum and see if the brush wheel turns freely,, if it does turn freely then put the belt back on and re-assemble the plate and test the machine. also make sure that the height setting is correct for your carpet length.
if when you put the brush wheel back in the vacuum it does not spin -- and there is no hair or carpet threads twisted in it -- then it could need some lube for the bearings or one of the bearings could be bad and need to be replaced.
if you are still having troubles and you have more questions about this problem -- please feel free to write me back here and I will do my best to walk you through the steps needed to fix.

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It certainly sounds as though the belt needs replacement. (Part # 38528035) If the belt has stretched, it will slip, causing a burning rubber odor. Get a new belt and compare it to the used one.

It's probably the power switch. My switch was dicey for a couple years, finally gave out. Easy to replace.

Remove the two screws just above the WARNING on the rear of the upper handle assembly, then slide the whole assembly to the rear of the vacuum.

Remove the dust bag cover. You will see two holes just above the upper corners of the dust bag. Remove the screws from these recessed screw holes.

Open the furniture cleaner cover and remove the cleaner attachment. Remove the single screw that was hidden behind the attachment. Then remove the attachment housing by pulling it towards the front of the vacuum.

Inside you will see the rear of the power switch. Pull off the power wires (don't worry, easy on/off male/female connectors, no soldering).

The switch is held in by tension bars at the upper and lower rear of the switch. Firmly press down on one of both of the upper/lower tension bars, and push the switch through the housing from the rear of the switch.

Replacement part number is 28161067, about $2.50. Shop will charge about $85 to repair it themselves.

Hello,

It sounds like your thermal reset switch inside of your Hoover may have gone bad. When a vacuum cleaner doesn't turn on it, it's either caused by one of four things.

1. Electrical Short in your Cord.
2. Plug has gone bad.
3. Motor of your vacuum is faulty
4. The On / Off Switch has gone bad, and/or your Thermal Reset Switch has gone bad

Since this happened while you were vacuuming, I would guess that this is either your electrical plug that's shorted out, or that your thermal reset switch has shorted out. Your model Hoover was built with a protection system that is supposed to automatically shut down your machine if it senses any excessive heat. This mechanism is controlled by a Thermal reset switch which is located in motor compartment. This part is notoroious for failing, even when there's no overheating that's occured.

Before you disassemble the entire machine to check this part though, I would try testing the On / Off switch in your machine, as well as testing the electrical cord, which will also let you know if your plug has gone bad.

Here's a link to a solution I've done here on FixYa explaining how to check the On / Off switch;
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4530569-replace_off_switch_hoover_windtunnel

While you have this apart, you can use the same electrical tester to test your cord. Simply put one end of the test into the terminal from the switch, and the other end of the test on one of the metal prongs that plugs into the wall. See if you have continuity here, if not, switch to the other prong of the plug and see if this helps.

If not continuity, this means your plug, or your cord has failed. If you do have continuity, this means that it's either the On / off switch, or the Thermal Reset Switch that's gone bad.

Here's a link to the solution that I've done on here showing how to replace the Thermal Reset Switch on your vacuum cleaner:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r4999778-replace_thermal_overload_switch_hoover

If you'd like some more help diagnosing this vacuum, please feel free to just use the comment field on the bottom of this page. I'm always happy to help you do some more advanced diagnosing, or answer any questions you may have.

If you found this solution helpful, please be so kind and rate this repair helpful, or leave feedback for me. This is greatly appreciated by the FixYa community. Thanks so much,

Chris Jones
GoVacuum.com

How to Change Actuator on Hoover Self-Propel vacuum Cleaner - Step by Step This is a notorious problem for the Hoover WindTunnel Self-Propelled Models. What happpens is that the handle of the vacuum that controls the transmission is controlled by an actuator arm that is attached to a cable that runs down through the machine. The poor design of this self propelled system is design in such a way that if you pick up the vacuum using the handle (this is natural way to do it, I'm guilty of this as well), it puts too much strain on the actuator arm that controls the self-propelled mechanism, and causes the nut, washer, and screw to strip right out of the actuator arm. This explains why your handle is so loose. You may verify this by looking at the gap between the upright body, and the lower agitator housing, right where the vacuum pivots when you step on the handle release pedal. You should see when you move the handle up and down that the cable and nut are the only parts moving, and you should be able to see where the nut did sit inside of the actuator arm before it was stripped. The good news is that this is a relatively inexpensive part, and the repair is really not that difficult.

I will explain step by step, and include pictures so that you may see how to replace the part that's broken.
Always be sure your vacuum is unplugged from the electrical outlet before performing any kind of service!
Tools and materials:
Torx bit or driver size T-25
Flat blade screwdriver
Phillips screwdriver
Actuator arm – Hoover part number 43143046

Here's the picture of the part that probably needs to be replaced.

Step 1. Place your vacuum cleaner upside down with handle resting on the floor and brush roll housing resting on a work bench.
Remove 4 screws from rug plate and set rug plate aside.

Step 2.
Remove power drive belt, brush roll belt and brush roll.


Step 4.
Remove 6 screws as shown. Also remove duct hose cover and small plastic section that was under brush roll in upper left corner.


Step 5.
Place vacuum right side up on top of work bench with handle all the way back. Using a flat blade screwdriver; gently pry the top cover away from the bottom housing in the area shown by(#1) arrows. Leave the 2 adjustment knobs(#2) in place.


Step 6. If the self-propel adjustment cable HAS NOT broken away from the actuator arm, proceed as follows; mark the position of the cable(#1) in relation to the cable retainer with a black magic marker to avoid having to readjust the cable position. Remove the screw(#2) (usually a Torx T-25 size screw) and cable retainer. Next, using a flat blade screwdriver; slide the ‘C’ ring (#3) off the metal post. Bend the metal bracket up off the post just enough so you can lift the damaged actuator up and off the post. Slide your new actuator arm back over the metal post. Slide the ‘C’ ring back over the post.Lock the self- propel cable back in place with screw and retainer. Test to ensure the power drive is adjusted correctly; CAUTION, YOU ARE ABOUT TO COME VERY CLOSE TO MOVING MACHINERY, NO NECKTIES, NECKLACES, LOOSE SHIRT TAILS,UNACCOUNTED FOR TOOLS OR CLUMSY FINGERS ARE ALLOWED FOR THIS NEXT STEP!!! Reinstall the power drive belt, plug your vacuum cleaner back in and turn it on. Check to make sure the handle is in the neutral position; observe that the power drive is NOT moving. Push the handle slightly forward. You should see the power drive wheels move in the forward position. Pull the handle back, you should see the power drive wheels move in the reverse position. Some finer adjustment may be necessary.
If the power drive cable has broken away from the old actuator; just try to get the new actuator arm as straight as possible. Using the handle and while observing the cable moving back and forth through the retainer area; move the cable all the way forward, then pull it all the back, try to gauge where the middle of the forward and reverse position would be and lock the cable down. Perform testing procedure as in previous paragraph. Again, some fine readjustment may be necessary.


I hope that this was helpful. I'm am 99% sure that this will fix your problem, but if for any reason it doesn't, please feel free to use the Clarification Request Form here on Fixya, and explain why this didn't work. Please feel free to logon to our website, http://www.govacuum.com/ if you need any parts for your Windtunnel.
If you can't find a particular part, more then likely we have it, just feel free to give us a call.

If this repair was hepful to you please be sure to rate the repair as helpful by clicking the Thumbs Up Icons in the top right hand corner.

Thanks again,

Chris J.
GoVacuum

This procedure worked for replacing the cord on my Hoover U6425-900. At a minimum, you will need a number 2 Phillips screwdriver, wire cutter, and two electrical wire nuts and electrical tape. Remove the accessory tools from the storage compartment. Remove two screws, these are recessed. Remove the cover from the bag compartment, remove two screws located at top corners of bag compartment. You may have to open the side filter door but the accessory tool storage compartment should be free at this point and can be removed. You should see the power cord and related wiring. If you have a digital camera you could take a photo at this point in case you need a point of reference. Make note of the power cord strain relief routing and length of wire. Too much wire will make reattaching the storage compartment difficult and the routing prevents the cord from being pulled out.
On my model the wiring colors were purple, orange and white. My replacement cord had black and white wires. The orange wire will not be involved in cord replacement. Using the wire cutters clip the purple wire about three inches back from the existing terminal. If present, clip the two nylon wire ties and discard. The white wire will have a crimped on wire connector. Clip the white wire about three inches back from the existing wire connector. The old power cord can be removed by pulling it out from the rear, it should just slide out of the rubber insulating boot. If not use a set of pliers and crimp the boot from the wiring side and push it outside the vacuum housing. If you have to do this make sure you slip the boot over the replacement cord before you insert the new cord back into the vacuum housing. Remove about a half inch of insulation from the purple and white wires and from your replacement cord unless it was supplied with insulation already removed. Use new wire nuts and connect the white wires. Use the other wire nut and connect the purple wire to the remaining new power cord wire. Use some electrical tape and wrap the nuts to the wires a couple of times so they won't loosen. Make sure you route the power cord around the posts as this is the strain relief and prevents the cord from being pulled out. Reassemble and test.

Why would you want to put in a broken belt?

Turn the machine upside down. There are two clamps that hold the sole plate on, un click then. This will reveal the 'belt alley' where the belt runs from the motor to the roller. Lift the roller out of the slots. Take this time to clean all the hair and threads off the roller.

Put the new belt over the wooden pulley on the roller and put it almost back in. Put the other end of the belt over the motor shaft. Stretch the belt by returning the roller to its slot. Put the sole plate back on - snap the clips - Presto.

Simple

Thanks for your question today.

HI There,

The part that raises and lowers the height adjustment goes underneath of the hood on the vacuum cleaner, and is held on by the carpet height adjustment know on the top of the hood.

I've done a repair below that explains how to get the hood off of the roller brush housing, and replace the knob next to it which is the rug/floor selector knob which is the one right next to the height adjustment part. The repair on your machine will be the exact same process however. Hope this helped you:

Hello,

If you've already changed the belts and the machine still won't run, it can really be only a few things.

The first thing you should check to make sure that the roller brush is good. You may do this by removing the bottom plate, and then taking the roller brush out of the vacuum. Hold the bar using just your fingertips on the very ends of the brush on the bearing caps. With just holding the bearing caps with your fingers, use your thumbs to try and spin the bar. Does it spin freely without any resistance? If no, then you'll need to replace the roller brush. Here's a direct link to the exact roller brush for your Hoover Windtunnel Self-Propelled:
Hoover Windtunnel Agitator Brush Part # 48414069

If the roller brush spins freely several times on each spin, then your machine may possibly have a bad Rug / Floor actuator arm. This part controls the internal pulley that stops the roller brush when you turn it from carpet to floor mode.

I'm guessing that this is probably a more likely cause of your brushes not spinning. Here's how you can check this part:

Step 1. Make sure that the vacuum is unplugged. Turn the machine upside down so that the brushes are facing upwards. I find the easiest way to do this is to put the brushes on top of a counter top or work bench with the handle of the vacuum resting on the floor. Remove the four screws that hold the bottom plate in place. Remove the bottom plate, both belts and then the roller brush from the machine:



Step 2. There are 3 screws that hold the top brush cover in place that need to be removed. On the right side the screw is down below the transmission to the right. There's also a screw in the agitator tray, in the middle that needs to be removed. NOTE: This small screw in the agitator tray is only present on some models, you's may or may not have this little screw, but all models will have all other screws circled. I have circled both screws that need to be removed:



The screws on the left side that need to be removed are also circled. One screw holds the upper brush cover on, and the other two screws secure the hose in place. Remove all three screws as well as the transparent hose cover:



Step 3. After all of these screws have been removed, there are two clips that are the last things holding the top brush cover onto the vacuum. Use a flat head screwdriver to push these clips off on both the left and right sides. The right side clip is near the pulley that the flat belt rides on, and the left side clip is next to the internal hose.



Step 4. Once both of these clips have been pushed so the unhook from the lower agitator housing, remove the top cover. On the top you'll see two selector knows, one for the height adjustment, the other that controls the rug / floor setting. Turn the cover over and look at the opposite side of the knob that controls the rug / floor selector. There should be an arm that extends out that looks like this:




Sometimes this arm will break off, which will prevent the actuator arm from activating the rug carpet setting. The machine basically will always be set to bare surface floor mode. Is this arm broken off on yours? If yes, then here's how you can remove it from the machine.

Take your flathead screw driver, and place it underneath of the of selector knob on the top of the cover. Simply lightly pry upwards to separate the knob from the arm underneath:



Replace the actuator arm with a new one and see if this fixed your problem. If this was not the problem, there's really only one other possible thing it could be, but I rarely see this go bad. Please let me know if this fixed your problem, or if it is something else wrong. I'll be happy to then walk you through the last remaining possible problem.

I really hope that this repair was helpful to you. If you did find it to be helpful, help other Fixya users with the same problem find this repair by rating it helpful. You can do this by clicking on the thumbs up icons in the top of the repair.

Thank you very much,

Chris J.

Be sure the upper attachment hose is inserted firmly into the lower hose into the nozzle. Check for suction at the end of the hose, and if there is no suction there must be an obstruction in the hose, or the filter inside the bag compartment is plugged. Be sure the brush is turning when the handle is released.

Hello There,

Here's a video repair that I've shot on this model you've listed your question under. This should help you replace the belts, and preform maintenance on your machine.

Please feel free to ask any questions by using the comment field below.



If you found this repair helfpul, please be so kind and rate my repair helpful, or leave feedback for me. This is greatly appreciated by the Fixya community when a repair is helpful.

Thanks so much,

Chris Jones
GoVacuum.com

Sorry to read about your problem, I hope this helps you out.

you have a clog between the brush and bag

I tried to help you. Please help me and Rate/Vote on my response, thanks and good luck

The belt for this machine is very specific and only one size fits. It is not uncommon for vac shops to sell the wrong belt because the proper belt is not available from normal supply houses, so they will substitute something they think will work.

Also, assuming you do have the right belt, check the tension arm that drops down on the v-belt when the handle is brought back. This arm has a wheel/bearing with a plastic "tire" or trim that rolls on the belt to tighten it. Sometimes, this tire cracks and falls off and then the remaining bearing won't have the necessary tension to tighten up the belt.

If this is a "V" belt, make sure the small roller that tightens the belt is ok and not jammed up. It may have to be replaced. Also if the flat belt is stretched at all, it won't work either.

on some models there are hook/springs that hold the cover of the base snug.

Staring from the failure of the power cord,the main plug,the main switch each of the sections must be tested for continutiy before we can conclude.
SInce it is clear case of power failure the voltage must reach the motor,if not back trace to the point decribed above.
If voltage is at the motor without any reponse then the motor can be faulty.Checked also faulty surge protectors/capacitors, break in leads inside the unit. A continuity tester is an important tool here.