20 Most Recent Fisher and Paykel DEGX1 Electric Dryer Questions & Answers


take the top loose on the dryer to acces the door switch. If it is the old style it should have a metal suround over the black switch. If the metal arm piece has broke, Ttake it off and tape the white button down to make it run.

Fisher and... | Answered on Aug 26, 2019


The most common cause for a clothes dryer drum to turn slowly or not start turning at all, is usually due to a faulty 'start capacitor'.
The capacitor stores electricity to help get everything turning from the stopped position. Once turning, less effort is required by the motor to keep everything turning.
Other components like a broken drive belt, burnt out electric motor, broken wire among other things etc also need to be considered.
Cheers

Fisher and... | Answered on May 01, 2019


Hi.

There is no reset circuit.

Parts that must be tested are high limit thermostat and timer board.
The timer board is replaced if it is visibly faulty, or if there is no problem elsewhere.
The high limit located near to the element is tested reading impedance with a multimeter set at Rx1. If there is no continuity , the thermostat must be replaced.

Before testing parts check the lint filter, and ensure that air ducts are clean.

Regards.

Fisher and... | Answered on Oct 20, 2018


add access to vent hose

Fisher and... | Answered on Mar 13, 2018


you need to replace the capactor which located near the motor in the back,easy to do

Fisher and... | Answered on Mar 06, 2018


If you have a 3 inch hose at 45 feet there is probably too much air pressure making the thermostat kick out because of the extra heat. If its possible to run a 4 inch pipe i feel it probably would work. Another thought. Are you using a plastic flex pipe. If so if you used an aluminum pipe you may have the additional air flow. A plastic flex is not a good pipe to use as it will bend and make less air flow hope I am reading this right.

Fisher and... | Answered on Mar 05, 2018


I've had this problem for 3+ years. There are possibly multiple reasons why your dryer trips the reset switch. My dryer has a design issue with the lint trap, in that it allows lint to build up around what I assume is the heat sensor / thermal switch. It's simple, the temperature is detected as too high in the dryer and trips the switch which cuts power to the heating element. The reset switch access as mentioned in other posts requires either tipping the dryer back or removing the front panel, at least partially, to access the switch. After the reset switch is pushed, you'll need to check if there's lint built up that's causing the reset issue. First, find the reset switch.

To access the switch, there are 4 Phillips head screws that need to be removed. For the first 2, lift the dryer lid and you'll see two half-moon shaped rubber inserts at each of the front corners of the machine. The inserts can be pulled out with your fingers or use a screwdriver, gently. There is 1 screw under each insert that needs to be removed. Once those screws are out, you can put the lid down and lift the plastic top of the dryer that the lid normally rests on. It's attached on the back of the dryer so don't worry, it won't come off...it will lift just like the dryer lid. Be careful of the sharp sheet metal edges. Now there are 2 smaller screws, 1 at each front corner, that attach the sheet metal pieces. Remove each of those screws. To get the front off requires a bit of finesse. You'll see that the front sheet metal panel of the dryer has bends in it to attach it to the sides of the dryer. Gently pull at the top corners, one at a time, to separate the front panel from the rest of the dryer. You'll see that there are u-shaped orange or red plastic pieces inserted into the sheet metal sides that align with holes in the front panel to hold the skin of the dryer together...the front should just pull away from those u-shaped pieces. There is a wire with a clip attached to the bottom of the front panel, probably a ground wire...if it pulls off when you remove the front panel, just reattach it when you put everything back together. The front sheet metal is also integral to the front feet of the dryer, so tilt the top of the front panel toward you and lift. The front panel should pull away. When you put the front back on the dryer, do it feet first by aligning the plastic foot pieces, then align the u-shaped side pieces, then worry about the top corners wrapping back around so the front fits flush.

The reset switch is in front at the bottom right of center and is probably orange. Just push it and you'll hear it click. I would vacuum out the lower part of the dryer at the point, but it's probably not what's causing your problem. I've gotten to the point where I use a yard stick or vacuum extension to push the switch without completely removing the front panel. Then I don't have to detach / reattach the ground wire. You'll see after you do it 3 or 4 times!

Now check to see if lint build up is causing your thermal switch to trip. Pull out the lint trap and you'll see 1 Phillips head screw behind where the lint trap normally sits. Remove the screw, and you'll feel the circular plastic piece the lint trap sits in become loose...pull this round piece out of the dryer from the bottom. If there is a lot of lint behind this circular plastic piece, that's probably what's tripping the heat sensor. Vac it out. Gently feel around the circumference of where you removed the piece to see if the fine mesh lint screen has any holes (if it does, it may be blowing lint into your exhaust and eventually clog the vent to the outside). If the mesh is torn, I assume that larger circular piece needs to be replaced at some point in whole or part. From what I can see, the design of the lint filter and trap is ....****. The system allows lint to enter the area where the heat sensor sits.

The short term fix is to vac out the sensor area regularly and that will keep the switch from tripping, if that is your actual problem. I believe F&P is aware of this issue and will probably remedy it for you. I called them once when this issue originally happened and had to wait for a tech to come out do what I described above. I haven't called them since, but have seen other posts regarding a new part or parts that F&P will provide...hopefully free! Good luck!

Fisher and... | Answered on Dec 11, 2017


hi roxy.
go to this link and see if its shows you where it goes.
Where to place green ground wire on 4 prong dryer Google Search

Fisher and... | Answered on Nov 18, 2017


Hot wire the motor to see if it runs. If so, module is at fault.

Fisher and... | Answered on Aug 31, 2017


I am going to make a long shot and say its the rollers are worn out.

Fisher and... | Answered on Jul 06, 2017


Does it have an error code? If so, what is it? I would like to help.

Fisher and... | Answered on Jun 26, 2017


Sounds to me like a frayed belt.

www.manualslib.com/manual/889801/Fisher-And-Paykel-Smartload-Degx1.html?page=15#manual

Fisher and... | Answered on Apr 02, 2017


I had this same problem with my Dryer. It is making the few quick beeps because it thinks the door is still open. Near the bottom of the opening to the dryer there is a sensor switch that gets pushed in when you shut the door. Try holding the switch in with a knife or something and then start the dryer with the door open to check if that is the problem.
After i did this, i closed the door and my dryer started as normal.

Fisher and... | Answered on Oct 18, 2016


Are you looking for wiring diagram? If so advise and I can lost pic

Fisher and... | Answered on Oct 02, 2016


It sounds like one or both of the bearings have failed. Go to http://fisherpaykelparts.net/techhelp/fisher-paykel-top-load-dryers-us-models/ This forum will work you through your problem

Fisher and... | Answered on Jul 22, 2016


if the clothes are damp then I would disconnect the vent tube, and dry a load of clothes. If they are dry then the vent needs to cleaned. Hope this helps Tim

Fisher and... | Answered on Apr 03, 2016

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