Fisher and Paykel GWL11 Top Load Washer - Page 4 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

What kind of capacitor is c455? IT should be marked with something that tells what it is. Also it might just be the capacitor failed. They do that a lot now with the cut rate capacitors on the market.

What lights come on? If it is a constant beep then may need a new mother board

sounds like code 130 position sensor in motor ,probably won't spin either

take clothes out,check the hose for is it blocked or kinked put a clothes hanger in hose and see if you can un-snake any thing out,then put draino-max jel in washer and let it set for about 2-3hrs,see there may be hair blocking the pump were it drains,this stuff work great for front-loader so let it sit.then try putting on drain it may take a few times,the when it drains,run washer on full cycle no clothes hot-water let it go through a full wash cycle etc.

Your pump and drain pipe could be blocked. Check for squashed drain pipe. Switch off power and water taps Bail out all water you can with cup move machine out from wall tilt machine back on a wall to look under to find pump. push white pump retainer clip outwards and turn pump anticlockwise to remove. and check for item in the impeller.

Water Valve Test When in Diagnostic Mode, the WASH TEMP UP button turns the hot water valve on. The Hot LED is on when the hot valve is on. The WASH TEMP DOWN button turns the cold water valve on. The Cold LED is on when the cold valve is on. DIAGNOSTIC MODE Turn the power on at the power point but off at the machine. Press and hold the WASH TEMP DOWN button and then the POWER button until the machine gives 2 short beeps and lights up. Release buttons when the beeps indicate diagnostic mode has been entered. There maybe up to 3 filters cold water line. There is sometimes 1 at each end of the water hose itself and also in the valve which can be removed with pliers. (see picture) Undo the 2 screws at the back of the buttons panel Undo the connection of the valve If you are good with a multimeter check that there is about 65 ohms resistance across the terminals of the valve. If not, then replace the valve. Also sometimes the workings inside the valve can jam shut so replace the valve.

DON'T try as there is more to it than the average person can do......there are a couple of specialized tools needed.

strawberry plant

http://www.jordansmanuals.com/ServiceManuals/FP/Service%20Info/Washing%20Machine/smartdrive-ph6-series-11-servi.pdf

Turn of hot tap and disconnect hot water hose from inlet solenoid, using long nose pliers pull out filter from solenoid. The problem may well be the solenoid needs replacing as they do tend to fail occasionally.

check the manufacturer's website for a manual and review the diagrams to see what holds the tub in place. clearly that part is no longer in the correct position. alternatively, you could open up the machine and look for the part that is out of place. there should be similar parts on the other side (there must be at least three or four of them and probably only one or two are broken, so you should be able to spot what looks different). once you've found the part that, you can try to determine why it's not where it belongs - maybe a screw came out, maybe it broke, etc. - and determine what you need to replace in order to get everything working properly again.

THERMISANCE IS BAD AJUSTEMENT NEEDED BY QUALIFIED PERSONNAL LIKE IRON TEMPERATUR CONTROLLER

your drain pump coil is corroded and the pump is probably leaking a tiny bit, after it runs for a while like on the spin cycle it will overheat and the thermal cutoff will cut power to it, you will probably also smell a hot metal kind of welding type smell which is your pump cooking then after it cools it will come on again (DO NOT KEEP TRYING TO USE IT AS IT WILL EVENTUALLY BLOW UP THE CONTROL BOARD TO!) you will need to replace the drain pump about 100 bucks in australia they are very simple to change you simply lift a small tab and twist the pump and it comes off

sounds like it isnt draining, can you tell me which lights are on reading from right to left e.g. 1,3,6

I would suspect that your lid lock switch is faulty, or maybe it has come unplugged from the motor controller module. You can access this by removing the whole top moulding but I cannot remember now how to do this now. But it wasn't difficult. Hunt around and download a copy of the service manual and the IPB.

Sounds like a,the water inlet solenoid/s are jammed open.

Take the back off your washer and find the cold water solenoid valve, tap it with a screw driver and it might close. In any case it is probably bad Shut the water off and pull the electric plug then remove the solenoid and get the model number off the unit and go to the parts store and get a new one. Best of luck. Hope this helps.

Hi, I have exactly the same issue, which first appeared yesterday. Following your advice, the lights that are lit are 3rd, 5th, 7th and 8th. The SLOW & HOLD spin speed lights are lit, along with constant beeping :)

Check the water pump under the machine. These pumps fail, but are easy to replace. Ours was short circuited and actually sparked when the power button was pushed. Same no lights, no power. We had a GWL10 model, but I'm sure the GWL11 is similar.

GO TO SEARS REPAIR SERVICE & PARTS WEBSITE.