20 Most Recent Fisher and Paykel Fisher & Paykel Washer - Page 6 Questions & Answers

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
???
Manual
You will need to type into your search engine/web browser '(make model number) washer manual' and you should be presented with a number of sources from which you can either download for free or have to pay a nominal amount.
You could also try the manufacturer's web site direct ;-0)

If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C.

Hi - are these particles kinda ash grey black in colour? if they are then the bellows have sprung a leak.. unfortunartely the only way is to replace the inner stainless drum.

Inspect the top of the bowl for any signs of structural damage along the grey plastic housing as it contains very fine sand used to counter balance the inner bowl.. on rare ocassions these leaks and give you the particle effect similar to what you've described..

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
Absolutely no promises but it's worth carrying this out anyway!

I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor/pump lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not even go to rinse or spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
Following are my complete and generic guidance notes for checking both the drain motor filter and the drain motor ;-0)
REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT (alternatively use a wet vac as sensibly suggested by VinnyB1234!)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!). These panels are either held on by (plasic) screws or will just pull off. Most filters are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play.
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning.

If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C

It is definitely not a belt noise since this machine a direct drive one, meaning no belt. The noise is likely coming from the drain pump, recirculation pump, or the diverter valve. Unplug the machine or disconnect power and lay the machine's front on a padded surface to access the pumps and the diverter valve at the bottom of the tub. Remove the pump's inlet and outlet hoses then check and clear from any debris that may blocking the impeller resulting in the whirring noise. Check the impeller for any damage or restriction.

Check the diverter valve for the same condition as the pump described above. The diverter valve is where the drain pump and the recirculation pump inlet hoses are attached from. Make sure the valve is in the drain position while the drain pump is working. Replace the drain pump and/or the diverter valve if deemed necessary.

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It sounds like the drain pump or the diverter valve is restricted. Check to make sure that the drain hose is clear then disconnect power and lay the machine's front on a padded surface to access the drain pump and the diverter valve at the bottom of the tub. Remove the pump's inlet and outlet hoses then check and clear from any debris that may prevent water from draining out. Check the impeller for any damage or restriction.

Check the diverter valve for the same condition as the pump described above. The diverter valve is where the drain pump and the recirculation pump inlet hoses are attached from. Make sure the valve is in the drain position while the drain pump is working. Replace the drain pump and/or the diverter valve if deemed necessary.

When the LID is opened the machine will shut down the drum as a safety feature and so is not a fault. But you need to check if this shutting down is the motor or the drum. If the drum is not revolving then the belt can be faulty , check at the rear bottom to see the motor and drive belts.

Please check the link below for support:

http://www.espares.co.uk/advice/washing-machines/a/7

Please also check the link below:

http://www.repairclinic.com/Washing-Machine-Troubleshooting?red=Washing-Machine-Repair-Help

I would first try restricted water pump. Unplug machine ,locate pump underneath it has a couple of wires connected to it. remove the 2 wires and the pump is held in place by a catch. Hold it down and turn the water pump to remove. Check for clothing or debris

Hmmmmm - I think you may actually have a faulty controller module - without a working module it generally means no power on etc for Smartdrive washers..

These were manufactured in 1999 or 2000.

Hi - this sounds more likely to be a faulty motor control module, its overheating and a electronic component is failing. Only way is to fit a new control module to eliminate the possibilty, another probable cause may well be the RPS sensor failing as it goes into spin mode.

Really need to do a few tests with a multi-meter, see if the motor/stator windings are ok, a faulty RPS at times will give a similar head ache..

Kate - firstly the windings of the stator when measured is 32 Ohms, earlier models was a lot lower between B-Y-R.

The washer will pump - rest pump (Cycles) during the spin cycle, if however it overheats then water will not be fully pumped out. A possibilty is the hose into the drain or sink is too high, or blocked somewhere.

In most cases the washer will indicate an error code.

The LEDS 1st & 4th from the right im assumming 10010000 = Fault code 144 - either you have a loose connection under the display/push buttons panel or you have a faulty motor control module

I believe the lid switch is faulty, for the later modules the microswitch is mounted inside the door lock mechanism, others under the lid/top left side.

The ambulance is just saying to call for help....

Hi - Fisher & Paykels does not come with heaters fitted, the two hot/cold inlets are used in prortion to the settings of the wash cycle in use.

So with a cold tap only you would expect cold wash functions only, if you accidently chose a warm wash the machine will start beeping as there is nothing to bring the temp level to the expected setting.

Hope this helps you choose..

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
(no promises but try this!)
I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor/pump lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not even go to spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
Here are my complete and generic guidance notes for checking both the drain motor filter and the drain motor ;-0)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!). These panels are either held on by (plasic) screws or will just pull off. Most filters are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play.

REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT.
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning.
If these actions have not cured the problem, it could be the control board OR the main motor. Motors will show weaknesses when commanded to spin.

If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C

This is fault code (130).the lights that are on are added together,il explain how below
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
128 64 32 16 8 4 2 1 This is The Rotor Position Sensor located in the motor underneath the machine.from underneath undo the pig plastic nut & take off the big round cover with the magnets in it.undo 4 bolts in centre of motor.The rotor Position Sensor has the plug with about 5 wires on it.

Hi just read your posting.Why do you think the machine needs to be reset?Is the machine working?Please reply with additional information and I am sure I can help you.Looking forward to your reply.

I have a model 11, but I believe they are the same. The end at he outlet of the pump actually has tabs on it. Just twist and pull. Make sure the tabs are ligned up with the slots before you pull too hard.

Thanks for choosing FixYa and welcome. That is a hot/cold valve error code. The first thing to check on your Fisher Paykel washer are the screens on the back where the hoses connect. Every now and then, the hoses get clogged and do not let water into the washer. If the screens are clear, the valve would need to be replaced. The error codes your are getting on you're washing machine is for a valve. The tech sheet says it cold be the hot or the cold.

Thanks for choosing FixYa and welcome. If your washer doesn't drain or spin, you may read and learn what parts may cause this. First, you will want to check your water pump. You need to make sure it is working. Make sure you check the belt on the pump. Make sure it is not broken or loose. Also, make sure your pulley is not stuck in place. Sometimes, they will stick or barely turn at all. If this is the case, you will need to replace it. If the pump, pulley, and belt are working, make sure your motor is working. You should be able to hear it if it is. If it isn't, check your lid switch. The lid switch can cause the motor to not work. It may need adjusted. If not, go ahead and change it. A bad lid switch may cause the washer to not work at all. Now, if your pump is pumping and the washer still won't spin, you will want to check your belt and clutch. Once again, the belt may be broke or loose. Check to make sure your clutch is not worn also. This may be a case of a bad lid switch again as well. You could have a bad drive motor. This is what controls spinning, draining, and agitation. You could have a broken motor coupler. Over time, they will go bad and need replaced. It is possible that your transmission is slipping or damaged. And lastly, you could have a bad basket drive ir spin bearing. This is what allows the inner tub to move. If this is the case, you will probably hear loud sounds or loud banging. I want to thank you for reading and I hope this helps you