Candy DQW150 Front Load Washer / Dryer - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Syphon it or use a shop vac

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
Herewith my standard/generic guidance notes for such problems ;-0)
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Sorry but I do not know your particular machine BUT I would suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters. The motor is unable to drain all of the water in the allotted time.
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is normally behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!) and held in by a round cover/knob.

REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT!

It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. If it doesn't work then the motor is malfunctioning!
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Hope the filter is the problem and good luck!
John C

change your moisture control sencor

Hi,

Problems with a washing machine not spinning or not draining are often inter related..

If you are having a problem with your top load washer then check out this tip...

Washing Machine does not Pump or Spin


If you are having problems with your front load washing machine then checkout this tip...

Front Load Washing machine not draining and or not spinning


heatman101

to find if this is a cold fill machine only, just check the back and see how many hoses are fitted to it.I would assume it is cold fill and the problem is within the heater.

Find out where your filter is; it is at the end of the thick hose coming down from the bottom of your tub; open up and clean out. Another possibility is there could be something stuck in your drum, feel if you could locate it. Next clean out the hoses in machine. After all this flush out with a hot wash, without clothes.

Check The Ducting To Make Sure There Is No Obstructions Inside. Find The Outlet Outside Where The Duct Goes And See If Your Getting A lot Of Air. In Some Cases You May Have To Remove The Back Of The Dryer To Remove The Biggest Lint Ball In The World.
This Huge Lint Ball Builds Up Over Time And Quickly For Users Who Do Not Clean The Lint Trap On Every Cycle.

All Of The Above Will Cause The Dryer To Not Be Able To Get Good Air Flow Thus Causing The Machine To Have To Much Back Pressure.

Yes, you do have to lever it out, if you have removed the center nut completely, try and pull the metal plate as far forward as you can, this should expose the rubber seal, this is what is holding the heater in.
Lever round the edge of the seal, and try to force it out, be careful,as you can break the plastic moulding (expensive)
If this does not work, then try cutting through the seal with a stanley knife, and remove it piece by piece.
You will have no trouble getting the new one back in.
Plz rate my solution.
Thanks.

I seem to end up inside my DQW150 about once every three months with dryer problems.

With the symptoms you're describing, and working from easiest to fiddliest, I'd start with checking for a blockage in the drain pump and the hose down to it from the bottom of the tub (drying seems much more sensitive to pump trouble than draining and spinning on this machine).

Then I'd run it with the back off and see if I could see condensing water trickling down the inside of the condenser (translucent duct fitted on the back of the tub). If you can't, it's usually because the solenoid on the cold water valve has burnt out again (this also usually results in the clothes getting much hotter than usual).

EVERYTHING FROM THIS POINT IN NEEDS THE MACHINE DISCONNECTED FROM THE POWER SUPPLY

Next, I'd unscrew the top of the breather tube from the top right hand corner of the case (as you look at it from the back), ease it down so the end rests in a bowl on the floor, and give the corrugated hose that attaches it to the bottom of the condenser a good squeeze to see what comes out. If this breather or its hose get blocked with a slug of wet lint, the dryer becomes amazingly inefficient. If at all suspicious, unclip the hose from the bottom of the condenser and rinse the breather (tube and hose together) through under a warm tap until all the rubbish is gone.

Finally, if none of those things bring any joy, I'd wash the lint out the condenser. This is a slightly fiddly job - the best way I've found is to take off both top and rear panels, then remove the condenser and blower from the machine together out through the top of the machine. Once they are out, they can be split and the condenser can be flushed by running warm water through it. Make sure you've got a good socket set before you begin - Candy don't believe in standardisation, so you will want every size of socket there is from 5.5mm up to 10mm before you're finished. Before putting it back together, have a look at the inside of the blower and check for any evidence of the impeller having become distorted, or of it fouling on its housing. On reassembly, be careful the rubber seal between the blower and the heater duct fits correctly on all four sides (it's easy to get one flange tucked inside the duct), and mind your knuckles as you're replacing the lower of the two blower fixing bolts and the screw which secures the condenser near the top of the tub.

Between them, those things usually cover it.

A.

Check filter behind kick plate on bottom front of machine. Drain water out first by lowering drain hose into bowl or bucket.
Plz come back if further help required.

i think you amy have 2 faults. the elements for wash and dry are completely separate.

i'm guessing a bit but the part that was reset was probably a resetteble thermostat on top of the dryer air manifold. take top off machine and you will see stats mounted on top of the air duct. one or more will have a little buttonin the middle. press this button and you will hear a slight click and the dryer will then work.
however, if the problem is reoccuring, then there is probably a lint blockage in the air duct causing poor air flow

make sure both solenoids have a working supply (if two fitted) at rear.

washer dryer and dryer ony machines differ in a huge way. the big diff. is the drums on each are completly different sizes. the conventional dryer has the bigger, giving better air flow and tumble to clothes. the w/d has a smaller drum thus less air flow and less tumble between clothes. the best way to see this effect is remove half the clothes after a wash and then select a drying cycle. u will see that by giving the clothes more room to tumble free of each other rather than tumbling in a large ball will dry them. washer dryers are really only a marketing tool.
(ex main brand engineer)

The cold water feeds for condenser cooling and for wash cycle drum fill are controlled by separate solenoid valves (manifolded together at the cold water inlet hose union). When the solenoid on my condenser coolant valve failed a couple of years back, I got symptoms like yours. A new pair of valves isn't expensive to buy and is a trivial job to fit. If this is what has been happening, suggest you also inspect the insides of your dryer fan and of the pump - neither of mine took really kindly to having been cooked for hours on end. Alastair.

Candy Washing Machine

1. Push and hold the FIRST Option Button with LED top right.
2. Turn the Program's Selector Knob 2 clicks clockwise.
3. After about 5 seconds, release the FIRST Option Button.
4. If the previous procedure was correctly carried out, all LEDs are turned ON simultaneously.
5. Press the START/PAUSE Button to start the self test mode

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Ugge61yrHE Has to do with the motor

It sounds like there may be a problem with the control board or circuitry in your Candy Grand Evo 8123D washing machine. The ticking noise could be an indicator of a fault in the machine's control system. To troubleshoot the issue, you could try the following steps: Unplug the machine from the power outlet for a few minutes, and then plug it back in. This may reset the control board and solve the problem. Check the power supply to the machine. Make sure that the power outlet is working and the machine is receiving the proper voltage. Check the door lock. If the door is not properly closed or the lock is faulty, the machine may not start. Check the machine's control board and wiring for any signs of damage or corrosion. If none of these steps work, it may be best to call a professional appliance repair technician to diagnose and fix the issue