20 Most Recent Asko W6461 Front Load Washer - Page 3 Questions & Answers

you can remove the toe panel ... remove the screw and pull the red release string... this will get your clothes out..

Don't need those bolts except for shipping the washer. They were supposed to have been removed a long time ago.

Hi,

in your model, there would be a Reset button. Refer to the manual for the location.

Hope i helped you.

Thanks for using ' Fixya ' and have a nice day!!

is the pump comming on look inside the pump with a tourch there may be somthing stuck behind the impeller

I am a technician for Asko in Australia.The blackness on the motor control unit(circuit board) is probably carbon dust from the carbon brushes in electric motor.Likely problem is motor brushes have totally worn the armiture in motor or the MCU needs replacing due to earth leakage or short.Purchasing the parts from Asko should be no problem, but if you purchase and install electrical componenents only to find problem unresolved, you can't return installed parts for a refund. Also the breather hose from the detergent dispensor to outer tank can leak from tank connection when spinning load , and result in water running down outer tank and onto the electric motor causing circuit breaker to trip.....possibly damaging motor too. Goodluck!!

hi Unlike a toaster, which performs the exact same function over and over, washing machines run through elaborate cycles with multiple settings. The devices that control these cycles can occasionally fail. Here's how to repair some of the common switches and timers.
Servicing the Lid Switch

The lid switch on a washer often serves as a safety switch. If the switch is not working, or if the switch opening in the lid is clogged with detergent, the machine will not run. To check and repair the lid switch:

Step 1: Unplug the machine. Clean out the lid switch port with a wood manicure stick or chopstick. Clean off any detergent buildup around the rim of the lid. Sometimes there's enough detergent encrusted on the metal to prevent the lid from closing tightly and keep the washer from operating.

Step 2: If cleaning doesn't help, remove the top of the cabinet to get at the switch. With the switch exposed, check the screws for looseness. Loose screws can cause the switch to move when the lid is closed or as the machine goes through its cycles. Check the terminals of the switch to make sure they're tight. Tighten the mounting screws after the switch is in alignment.

Step 3: Test the switch with a VOM set to the RX1 scale; procedures for using the VOM are detailedhere. Disconnect the power leads to the switch terminals and clip one probe of the VOM to each terminal. Close the lid of the washer. If the meter reads zero, the switch is working. If not, the switch is faulty and should be replaced.

Step 4: If necessary, replace the lid switch with a new one of the same type. Connect the new switch in exactly the same way the old one was connected.
Step 5: If the switch still doesn't work, it is probably misaligned. Realign the switch by repositioning the screws holding it in place, testing the switch as you go until it works properly.

It's probably the heater, or the thermostat. You must have a serviceman to fix that:)

ring the asko service number on the inside of your door,1300 002756 ask for spare parts

CHeck outlet filter, and draining system. Seems to be something that is stuck in the pump.

problem may be to with using very hot water which has dislodged sludge. fault may cure itself.at top of machine is a usually round device with 3 to 7 wires to it depending on type used. also connected is a small diameter hose. trace this hose to bottom of machine and it is connected into an air chamber. check air chamber is not clogged with sludge and if it is, clean it. remove small diameter hose and check not clogged as well and that there are no splits with it. there is really no need to clean appliance at all unless you are using liquid detergent which over time leaves a smell like drains. if you are, recommmend using powder

They never make these things easy. Help in the link https://www.google.com/search?q=Asko+dishwasher+D5634+drain+pump+replacement ..

Question edited for clarity. Duplicated question deleted. Refresh the page to see your question. When a machine stops mid cycle is usually because the pump is jammed with something that was in the wash or the pump has failed. If the board calls for the pump to run and it doesn't within 2 seconds or so, it will stop all actions. You can try a proper Power Reset. Disconnect over night, press and hold the power button for a full minute, then plug is back in. It may also be a Control Board fault. Ideas in the link. https://www.google.com/search?q=Asko+W6424W+washing+machine+froze+mid+cycle+ll+of+the+lights+flashing ..

No wash agitation or spin? try these: WATER PRESSURE SWITCH: This switch keeps your washer from overflowing. It is responsible for shutting off the power to the fill valve and redirects the power to the timer to start the washing machine running once the correct water level has been reached. Meter check ur water pressure switch? You can test it with a meter and with a manual test? ( first locate it in the panel, it has a plastic clear tube hose going into it, remove that tube from its connection, now put another small tube or hose into the slot where it was and have the machine set to wash cycle with water in it. Blow into the other end of the tube. If the machine starts to wash. the pressure switch is more than likely good ( No wash starts - then THE DIAPHRAGM IS BAD AND SWITCH HAS TO BE REPLACED) another test u can do is Remove the hose and submerge in water. Seal one end and blow air into the other end and look for bubbles. Check for an obstruction in the hose as well. Or take the original hose tube and plug one end and blow into it AT the other end, it should be hard and have pressure, if it is easy to blow and u dont feel any pressure and it feels like the air is going out ? Sometimes they get busted open or a pin hole and release air causing the water switch diaphragm to not open. Another test u can make with a multi meter is by testing the prongs individually. # 15,16,17 (don't worry to much bout the numbers IF U GET THEM WRONG) place ur meter prongs on both out side prongs or connectors of the switch. (where the wire plugs into) take note of weather it shows OHMS or infinity ( open or close circuit) ? Now place the meter on the left outside and the middle prong, take note agin what it shows. Now place meter prong on the right outside and the middle prong. Agin take note what reading u get. ( you should actually get a reading of infinity in 1 and a reading of continuity or ohms in the other 2? Now the tricky part. Agin place a small tube or hose into the switch and blow into it, using the meter do the same test agin on all prongs. But now keep the pressure on the switch when u blow into it, in other words use ur tongue on one end of tube to not allow air to escape. When u test it agin now one of the prongs that once read infinity should now show continuity or ohms, and 1 of the other prongs that read ohms should now read infinity or open. . Motor Coupling If the washer won't spin or agitate the motor coupling might have failed. The motor coupling connects the motor to the washer transmission. It is designed to fail if the washer is overloaded in order to protect both the motor and Drive Belt If the washer won't spin or agitate, check the drive belt. If the belt is broken or if it isn't tight on the pulleys the washer won't spin or agitate properly. mode shifter and or Drive Motor If the washer won't spin or agitate the drive motor might be defective. This is not common. Check all of the other related parts to this symptom before replacing the motor. If the motor is visibly burned out or physically damaged, replace it. Stator Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the stator assembly might be burned out. The stator is essentially one half of a motor, it interacts with the tub by creating a strong electro-magnet. If the stator burns out the washer won't spin or agitate. Check the stator for continuity. This part is often misdiagnosed. Transmission or clutch assembly not engaging due to going out or slipping. Door or Lid Latch Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the lid switch assembly might be defective. This is a very common problem. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any electrical switches with an Ohm meter for continuity. The switches should have continuity according to their design. Door Lock Motor and Switch Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the door lock assembly should be checked. The door lock can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any switches on the door lock with an Ohm meter. The switches should have continuity according to their design. Motor Control Board If the washer won't spin or agitate the motor control board might be defective. The motor control board provides power to the motor as well as direction and force. If the motor control board is defective the washer may not work at all or function properly. CHECK THE CAM DOGS INSIDE THE AGITATOR, AS THEY WILL HINDER THE AGITATION PROCESS. However in G.E models the cam dogs are replaced with what is called an agitator coupler. (located at bottom of tub) Remember to check the agitator spline as well for worn broken teeth.

Videos in this link https://www.google.com/search?q=inlet+valve+replacement+ASKO+D5544 Funny plastic clip shown removed in this link https://genuineapplianceparts.com.au/dishwasher-parts/441586-asko-dishwasher-inlet-valve.html ..

turning it off at the power source then back on again after 15 minutes Should be plugged in, possibly under your sink, or if you know what breaker it's on you can turn it off there. Best to you

It is so common that the washing machine can make terrible noise in many ways and is a common fault. In all occasions it is important that your observation is most important and so is vital to the identification /rectification and solution. If you have noticed that machine is vibrating when it is running then the motor /drum suspension has to be inspected. Since these fittings are located on the underside of the machine it is important that you look for the noise with a good inspection lamp. Manually turn the motor and drum and listen for the noise, if so the motor bearings, the drum agitator shaft and fittings must be checked. Also the suspensions which include the shock absorbers and springs, the body clamps must be checked to be in correct alignment and not changed in position. Tightening of the mounting is also very important. Finally in most cases a drop of OIL or smear of grease on the moving parts cane solve most issues.

Check this link :

http://www.espares.co.uk/advice/washing-machines/a/7/1210/wobbly-washing-machine-or-tumble-dryer.html

For most washers, just close the lid. When the washer is unbalanced open the lid, rearrange the clothes and shut the lid. Washer will start spinning again.

screw is down inside of top backwards thread then remove agitator

Splashing in the detergent supply drawer. Perfectly normal.