20 Most Recent Asko T700 Electric Commercial Dryer Questions & Answers

I had the same problem. Turns out the reset button on the back of the dryer needs to be pushed; when you push the reset button you should hear a click. If you do not hear a click the problem was probably not the reset button. The button shuts down the dryer heating elements if they are getting too hot and also keeps the drum from turning unless the start button is held down.

If you push the reset button and the dryer starts to work again, I strongly recommend that you stop the dryer and investigate why the heater elements overheated. In my case there was lint/hair build up on the heater elements themselves. Extensive dryer disassembly is required to properly clean the heating elements but it is worth the prevention of a house fire. While you're at it, clean the rest of the machine and the duct work.

Hope this helps

Well, if the vents are perfectly clean and unobstructed the only thing I can think of is that the thermal switch designed to turn off unit when overheating is opening prematurely. Might have to be replaced.

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ELECTRIC Dryer no heat or little heat, or shuts down to fast: Check your venting and lint basket. Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it) Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective or has a short if its grounding out? Which in turns causes blown fuses or thermostats or overheating. Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220, Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats. For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement. In some dryer's the control panel relies on a thermistor rather than a CYCLING thermostat to regulate the drum's air temperature by monitoring the component's resistance changes; resistance goes down as temperature increases and up when temperature decreases. Once the drum's air temperature reaches a certain level required to dry clothes, the control panel shuts off the heater. The panel will turn the heater on again and begin another heating cycle when the thermistor indicates that more heat is needed to keep the air temperature constant inside the drum Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet. Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity. A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle. Which are reflected by the thermostats. Read more :http://www.ehow.com/info_12203962_check-dryer-thermistor.html

The rear bearing is held in place between the back and the plate that covers and supports the heating element, and does not have to be removed unless you want to clean and oil it...but the back does have to come off, which means you'll have to unplug the wires if you have nowhere to sit the back beside the dryer, so take pictures of the wires in the upper rear corner first. They are labeled, but a pic always helps...The first thing is to unplug the dryer and take the top off, three screws in the back and slide the top to the rear (1/4") until you can lift it out...now you need to make a tool to hold the drum in place when you reassemble it and now is the best time. Cut a piece of metal coat hanger long enough to hook onto the rear lip of the drum and hook into the top of the front frame and hold the drum level. This makes assembly so much easier. Now you can take the back off. Remove the perimeter screws and loosen the bearing nut. Take the washer off but leave the nut on flush with the edge of the shaft (to save the threads) and tap the shaft (not too hard) thru the bearing with a hammer. Now you can take the back off, it has a tab and slot on each side to hold it, you have to lift slightly. Now you can change the belt, making sure the new belt is mounted on the tensioner properly, look at it before you take the old belt off. The next gotcha waiting for you is getting the drum back in properly. The drum is supported in front by two rubber wheels and in the rear by the bearing. It is important that you get the drum in right or you'll soon be replacing the wheels. Also, the felt seal in the front has to be properly in place for the dryer to work right and all the while you're fighting the tensioner, and trying to get the back in place. This is where the tool makes it easy. Line everything up, put the tool on to hold the drum, and stick the back on. Use the nut to pull the shaft back into the bearing. Make sure the drum rotates freely, hook the wires back up, button it all together, and you're back in business...

I have a T760, and the way I do it is to take the top off (3 screws in the back and slide it out from under the front lip), take some pics of the wiring so I'll know where they go (they're marked, but pics still help), and take the back off (perimeter screws). The drum bearing is mounted in the back, so I have to tap the drum shaft thru the bearing (take the washer off and put the nut back on so it is flush with the end of the threads). Asko has a special tool to hold the drum in place while the back is off, but I made one out of a coat hanger (a hook on one end to hang on the lip of the drum, bend a couple of right angles to fit thru the holes in the front panel, make it before the back comes off). The real hassle is holding the drum in place while reinstalling the back and the tool does this nicely. The belt has a spring loaded tensioner, make sure the wheel and bearing are ok, put it back together, and you're back in business...

They usually put the wire diagrams inside the actual console area, they make it to where only services can find it. If it isn't inside the console then try going to asko website to see if they have a PDF file you could download

I'll add the diagram that was inside my Asko T700 to the documents section.

Hello,

Welcome to FixYa.

Based on your description I`d direct you to first check the hi-temp cut out at the back...if you haven`t already.

It will look like this on the Asko dryers...



If you push this to reset and the unit works, great. I would keep an eye on it though since the hi-limit typically trips for a reason such as a plugged lint filter, plugged vent ot partially plugged or the heater itself is plugged up with lint.

Take the lint filter and clean it under some warm water and soap as they do become plugged with wax over time due to fabric softener and static sheets...when present/used regularly

If it doesn`t run after-wards or it`s not tripped, you`ll need to investigate for a faulty heater element. This is quite involved, so we`ll cross that bridge when you get there...if necessary.

Keep me posted on your progress or what you find and I'll help in whatever manner I can. Good luck.

Regards,

Macmarkus :)

Hi,There can be many reasons why your dryer will not start or turn...The most common causes are the belt breaking or jumping off, or the motor goingbad...Here are a couple of tips that I wrote will help you to figure out why yourdryer will not run...Dryer Repair - The Dryer is not TurningDryer Repair - The dryer will not startheatman101

Hello & Welcome to FixYa

If you have already tried cleaning the vent then the problem is with the Thermostat. When the thermostat goes bad it cannot be reset and replacing it is recommended repair.It is located on the blower wheel housing inside the rear panel to the exhaust duct. You can test it for continuity before replacing, if thermostat reads continuity then please get back to me if you have any other questions.

Kevin

the belt is broken, here is a thread:

http://applianceguru.com/forum2/2043.html

here is a manual:

http://www.ajmadison.com/ajmadison/itemdocs/English-T711-721-731-761-781_UCG.pdf

Hope it helps Tim

TRY DISCONNECTING THE EXHAUST FROM THE BACK OF THE DRYER AND RUN ONE LOAD THROUGH IT. IF IT DRIES O.K., THEN YOU HAVE A RESTRICTION IN THE DUCT WORK.

Hello Andrea,

Welcome to FixYa.

Before starting...

**Turn off your breaker at the home service panel, it should be a 30amp switch or unplug it from the wall...safety first**

I suspect your suspicion is "bang on" The fuses are a ceramic in-line fuse, but no they typically will not show any visual sign of blowing....the only sure fire way to confirm or dismiss them is by way of replacement or testing continuity with a meter.

With a flat screwdriver fitted in the slot of the fuse hub, turn it a half turn counter clockwise an it should drop out...though it may need to be pulled out if it`s stuck in the holder part.

Replace with a 15amp "slow blow" ( the only difference is the slow blow are filled with sand and aren`t transparent glass tubes but rather gray or white in color ) if the fuse is blown.

You can find these fuses at most brick & mortar appliance part stores or on-line parts vendors such as "repairclinic.com" for about $50 and should come complete with hubs & holders as shown below.




Asko part number is #8058140. The number may substitue to an in-store number, it really depends on the vendor, just provide your model number or the number I listed from Asko and you should have no trouble.

Hope that is helpful. If so please rate the solution accordingly, if not let me know what you find or if you require further assitance.

Thank`s for visiting FixYa today and good luck. Please take a moment to rate the assistance I provided and a short testimony is appreciated.

Regards,

Macmarkus :)