Asko W6441 Front Load Washer - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Could be cycle timer failure

I am in Australia so my comment relates to that OZ power supply. The first thing I’d do would be to check the pump to eliminate it as the problem. To do that I’d disconnect at the supply end of the pump’s electric cable and make up a 3 pin plug patch lead and supply power to the pump directly through an RCD protected outlet, and see if the pump works independently of the control board. That would confirm the pump is ok and not going to earth (which would trip the RCD.)
Do the water inlet solenoids come off that board? Because if they are, and are mains voltage, check them the same way. Check everything that comes off that board at the appropriate voltage independently.
There will be temp and water flow and drum-wobble sensors which will be low voltage and all need to be independently checked at the right voltage for each to eliminate them as the problem.
A digital multimeter checking the sensors probably won’t do any damage (blow them up).
Visually check the board visually for any burnt or blown components. Some boards have a thermal fuse in the circuit.
Asko should be able to supply the circuit for the board and it’s values. NZ Govt has legislation that compels Asko to provide this info. We got a new board from Asko NZ by post.

The factory program in its default settings which cannot be changed. You should however, be able to use the control panel to reselect what temps etc you want to wash , but this will have to done each time you wash.

google this with the model # and the brand along with the F4 error code

as its a front loader a few things can happen i think you need to take the top off the machine and using the plug for the mains and a DVM meter {cheep } use ohms setting like 20 or beep or both and then from the plug follow the mains from the plug to the supply inside the machine examine where the cable goes in etc look for 'open circuit ' lines if the two likes connected accross from mains in to inside doesnt beep the wire is disconnected L N should power on lines enable your shure to track it down this way ... machine dont have internal fuses i think its a chopped cable cracked board or loose plug rule out the obvious and what ever left must be the truth it could have even just knocked off a plug on the main controller.....pcb {underneath at the back right ..}

LOUD NOISES IN washing MACHINE; LOT OF THINGS TO CHECK, THE BELT LOOSE OR WORN, THE CLUTCH, THE TRANNY, THE BEARINGS BOTH TUB SEAL AND BEARING, THE REAR DRUM BEARING, the balance or counter weights. THE DRIVE PULLEY- If the washer is making a loud noise the drive pulley might be worn out, cracked, loose or bent. Remove the drive pulley and inspect it carefully. If it is damaged or defective replace it. THE TRANSMISSION, THE MOTOR COUPLER, THE MOTOR DRIVE BEARINGS, THE DRIVE MOTOR- If the washer is making a loud noise the drive motor bearings may have worn out. Washer motors are normally almost silent when they run. If the motor is run without a belt hooked up to it and it's loud it will have to be replaced. The drive coupling connects the motor to the transmission and consists of two plastic drive forks with a rubber coupling between them. One of the drive forks is attached to the drive motor shaft and the other is attached to the transmission input shaft. As the motor shaft rotates, the rubber coupling between the drive forks absorbs the torque to prevent the forks from breaking. Normal use will create wear on the coupling and eventually the drive forks may slip and cause a vibrating noise. If the transmission seizes or if the spin basket cannot turn freely, then the coupling may fail and again you may experience a vibrating noise. Most models will require you to remove the cabinet to access the drive coupler. Disconnect power from the appliance before attempting any repairs. If the washer is making a loud noise the drain pump might be going bad or might have something caught in it. Remove the drain pump from the washer and inspect it carefully. Look for anything that might be caught in it, a piece of wire, plastic, etc. If nothing is wrong with the pump, but it's still noisy it will have to be replaced. Front load washers often use a self contained electric drain pump and the motor may be worn or damaged and require the complete pump to be replaced. Remove any foreign objects or replace the worn or damaged pump, thencarefully tighten the hose clamps and check for leaks before installing the cabinet or front panel. All front-load washing machines have shock absorbers that are used to dampen the tub movement in the spin cycle. The shock absorbers or struts are attached to the base frame and to the outer tub and you will need to remove the front panel or the rear panel to access them. When shock absorbers weaken or become damaged, the machine will often make a loud banging sound during the spin cycle and if the symptom is not corrected, can lead to damage of other components. Inspect the shocks for signs of broken attachments, leaked fluids or a weakened dampening action and replace both shocks if worn. Remove power from the appliance before attempting this repair. Some models of top-load washers use tub dampening straps to cushion the movement of the tub during the spin cycle. There are four straps attached to the top of the tub and to each corner of the cabinet Also There are four suspension rods that suspend the tub and allow the tub to free float. If the suspension rods are noisy, there will be a squeaking noise during wash. You can fix this by putting bearing (lithium base) grease in the cup that each rod rests in. If it continues to squeal replace all four rods the cups come with the rods, replace them as well. If your washer has a loud banging noise during spin the balance weight may be loose. This weight is to counter act the weight of the motor so you will find the weight directly behind the motor. Sometimes simply tightening the bolts will fix your issue but if the bolts are stripped out get some bolts slightly longer than the original bolt to allow you to put a locking nut on the bottom side of the mounting plate. If the weight is broken replace it. Lastly Washer vibration can be caused by a broken counter balance spring. Ur washer may be equipped with one or more counter balance springs which help to absorb the natural movement of the spinning tub. If a counter balance spring fails the tub might lean in one direction more than another and it will shake and cause vibration.

Please refer page 12 and 24 in the washer manual to find out how to open the locked door. You have to press the door open button for 3 secs at end of cycle. Asko Front Load Washer Use and Care Guide W6021 W6441 W6761...

This may be the drain pump itself, it is common as I believe your model is fitted with a magnetic pump. If indeed this is the problem, the original pump housing can be used again by simply unscrewing, this will save money. You can buy pump assemblies in universal form most of the time but simply check that the housing fits to the new pump, most come with a choice of mounting brackets and have more than enough screw holes to suit most housings.

Remove top-cover(3 screws), soap drawer, and 2/3 screws beside the holde for the drawer. Looking from the top, you'll see 3 or 4 plastic "pins", holding the bottom of the panel. Just press this out, and flip the panel upwards. Finito:)

Best just turn it off and restart. Washers today,have a lock in place mechanism that prevents a change once the cycle has started. You have to begin over if you want to change anything.

Hope helps.

Hi,
Here is the link for your manual you requested.
Manual
I hope this helps I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gere_bf68e6055dd61249

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,

I suspect that it is 'gummed up' or just plain stiff or the cover for the softener tray is raised, stopping it from being removed. Normally to remove would be one of these I suspect:-

• Top catch- push down the lip/catch at the middle rear and pull the drawer out (that's how our Bosch one is removed)
• release the catches underneath (our daughter's Indesit) or
• lift upwards on the tray as it is coming out to clear the lip underneath.

Make sure that you are clearing any 'latch', especially if it's the one underneath, and try again. If it does move out relatively easily but only a franction of an inch it's probably the softener bit catching the top of the drawer entrance. The way to push it down is to use the flat of a thin object- a (safe!) knife for instance.

If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
Here is an extract of my guidance notes on checking filter and motor. Try the last paragraph in particular-
POWER OFF FIRST
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning.

If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,

Have you been able to check that the drain motor is free to turn AND is working when it should?
If not then my (general) guidance notes, in particular the last 2 paragraphs, should assist you to be absolutely sure. You will need to remove the filter to see the motor.
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Sorry but I do not know your particular machine BUT I would suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters. The motor is unable to drain all of the water in the allotted time.
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!) and held in by a round cover/knob.

REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT!

It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. If it doesn't work then the motor is malfunctioning!

Good luck!
John C

F3 indicates a problem with the drain pump. At the bottom left of the machine, theres a square cut-out. This is where the drain pump is located. Using a flat head screwdriver or similar object, insert in opening on right side and gently pry open the drain pump cover.
Once the cover has been opened, be careful when opening the drain pump, as there is always a little water left in the drain pump. Before you open the drain pump, place a small container on the floor below the drain to catch the water. Pull the small black hose from the door and let the water drain into the container. You can now open the drain pump to clean it out. Also clean the pump rotor at the back of the pump housing. Replace the drain cover and reconnect the drain hose securely back to its position on the door. Close the cover.

F4 indicates a problem with the water inlet valve. Make sure the water supply is fully turned on. If no water enters the machine, then turn water supply off. Disconnect the hoses from the water inlet valve to see if the strainer in the inlet connection is blocked. Reconnect the hoses and turn on water supply. Hopefully this solves your problem.

Hello John, Welcome to FixYa. I can provide you with an Asko service manual that should guide you on how to remove the panel and anything else you may like to do as well. The service guide I have is an Asko W600 series ( that includes yours ) from Asko in "pdf" so I could attach it to the email address you provide if you give the go ahead. I'll watch for your reply. Regards, Macmarkus :)

1.
a) Press Pause/Cancel twice.
b) Open and close the washer lid.
c) Reset the cycle and press Start.
2. There may be excess water in the water reservoir. Empty the washer Turn it off at the mains, and unplug it, then put some old towels on the floor, tip the washer forward until the excess water comes out, Reconnect and try again. Hope this helps.

Hello,

Welcome to FixYa.

I can tell you on the Asko machines the "F4" indicates an error related to the thermistor.

Whether the thermistor is actually at fault is another matter. It may be a faulty wire connection, the thermistor has become dislodged from the bracket mounting it to the tub or yes indeed the thermistor may be at fault.

Here`s what to look for and what it does...

THERMISTOR
Part no. : 80 616 63
Resistance: 40-60K ohms
Room temperature: 68°-86° F (20-30° C)

The thermistor ( for temperature measurement ) is
located between the motor cradle and the holder.

The thermistor measures and controls the water temperature via a heating element. In the event of errors the heater is switched out and F4 displays if the thermistor short-circuits or is disconnected from the program control board or programmer.

**unplug the unit from the dryer or wall whichever applies to your situation...safety first**

If you are capable, remove the rear panel and top panel to ohm out the thermistor to verify if it is within` the values I provided...or perhaps it has dislodged from it`s position as I alluded to.

In the event you need a thermistor and you feel you can replace it yourself I`ll show you how...I do recommend calling in an authorized Asko service provider.

CHANGING THE THERMISTOR

1. Remove the top cover as mentioned
2. Remove the rear panel as mentioned
3. Remove the thermistor by pulling it out to the left.
4. Remove the thermistor header connector from the program control board.
5. Install the new thermistor by threading it through the hole between the cradle and holder.
6. Connect the thermistor to the program control board.
7. Replace the rear panel.
8. Replace the top cover. (Don't forget the two
star washers for the outer screws.)


Hope this helps move you forward or at least gives you an idea of what needs to be looked at.

Let me know if you require further assistance or this is not clear I can post pictures/illustrations. Thanks for choosing FixYa today.

Good luck.

Regards,


Macmarkus :)

no you need to replace the door lock assy