Asko W660 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Is the machine a front loader? Is the drawer on the front of the machine? What is the Brand? I have a Samsung front loader and my detergent/bleach & softner drawer pulls out from the front. There are two drawer release locks on the drawer track (one on each side) if the drawer will give you any wiggle try pulling or pushing up gently. This may unlock the track. It sounds like the drawer was pushed in too hard... hope this helps

Replace inlet valve to washer. Cold water line is attached to it on back of your washer. Do not try to clean it.

may be carbons in motor and or board

Hi

If the hum is coming from the bottom then it is the motor that is bad and should be replaced. However, if the hum sound comes from the control panel then it is the timer that is bad and should be replaced. Hope this helps...please post back for further assistance.

Daniel

Try a hard reset of the op system by unplugging the machine and waiting a few minutes then plugging it back in. If this does not work, your door lock mechanism may need to be replaced.

Try this site

http://www.repairclinic.com/Asko-Washing-Machine-Dispenser-Components-Parts

Please rate this solution. Thank you.

Possible that speed of the spin is not up to the recommended level as desired by the program hence it must be seen that the motor is running to low speed.
If there is a belt drive then it is possible that the belt can be slacked to slip a bit reducing the speed.
If there is a capacitor to start the motor, it is possible that the value can be low reducing the speed.
Finally the length of the program cycle can be reduced , if so the program controller can be faulty. check the time length to confirm choose a higher program with longer spin time if available.
Finally check the friction of the motor drive section.

Further on to this F3 problem I had the issue on model W6461. There is a short cut to the fix, instead of taking off the grey pipe from the drain pump (the hose clips are pre crimped in the factory so as stated above are difficult to remove) try this.
Stages as follows:
1) Open drain pump door (bottom left of machine).
2) Remove black pipe and drain residual water.
3) Unscrew coin trap and remove, use a container to hold the water.
4) Leave the container underneath and make sure you have some towels ready (I didn't at the time)
5) Where the washing machine drain hose connects to the outlet or U bend connector remove this and expose the end.
6) Blow into the drain hose as hard as possible......hopefully the blockage will clear through back the coin trap.

Result:
A large lump of sludge, three of my 5 year olds small counter coins and about a litre of water.

Just ran the machine now and fault cleared.


Good luck

Jurgo

It may be the seal needs to be greased (waterproof grease) where the drum shaft goes into the support bearings in the outer drum case--major tear-down! Check the front bearing for looseness or roughness while you are there. Make sure the motor drive belt is not causing the squeak first. Good luck!

More often than not you need water inlet valve/solenoide.

Try pressing P1 five times and then press the door button (with the key symbol). This resets the rinse sensor. If it overfills again, you probably have a bad cpu.

The door lock mechanism. You have to quote your model and number while ordering.

Sites for spares:
RepairClinic.com
espares.co.uk
AppliancePartsPros.com
mcminone.com

Go to repairclinic.com

lick on this link and contact the parts warehouse they will be able to help you. http://www.askousa.com/buy-asko/contact-us/

They never make these things easy. Help in the link https://www.google.com/search?q=Asko+dishwasher+D5634+drain+pump+replacement ..

Question edited for clarity. Duplicated question deleted. Refresh the page to see your question. When a machine stops mid cycle is usually because the pump is jammed with something that was in the wash or the pump has failed. If the board calls for the pump to run and it doesn't within 2 seconds or so, it will stop all actions. You can try a proper Power Reset. Disconnect over night, press and hold the power button for a full minute, then plug is back in. It may also be a Control Board fault. Ideas in the link. https://www.google.com/search?q=Asko+W6424W+washing+machine+froze+mid+cycle+ll+of+the+lights+flashing ..

No wash agitation or spin? try these: WATER PRESSURE SWITCH: This switch keeps your washer from overflowing. It is responsible for shutting off the power to the fill valve and redirects the power to the timer to start the washing machine running once the correct water level has been reached. Meter check ur water pressure switch? You can test it with a meter and with a manual test? ( first locate it in the panel, it has a plastic clear tube hose going into it, remove that tube from its connection, now put another small tube or hose into the slot where it was and have the machine set to wash cycle with water in it. Blow into the other end of the tube. If the machine starts to wash. the pressure switch is more than likely good ( No wash starts - then THE DIAPHRAGM IS BAD AND SWITCH HAS TO BE REPLACED) another test u can do is Remove the hose and submerge in water. Seal one end and blow air into the other end and look for bubbles. Check for an obstruction in the hose as well. Or take the original hose tube and plug one end and blow into it AT the other end, it should be hard and have pressure, if it is easy to blow and u dont feel any pressure and it feels like the air is going out ? Sometimes they get busted open or a pin hole and release air causing the water switch diaphragm to not open. Another test u can make with a multi meter is by testing the prongs individually. # 15,16,17 (don't worry to much bout the numbers IF U GET THEM WRONG) place ur meter prongs on both out side prongs or connectors of the switch. (where the wire plugs into) take note of weather it shows OHMS or infinity ( open or close circuit) ? Now place the meter on the left outside and the middle prong, take note agin what it shows. Now place meter prong on the right outside and the middle prong. Agin take note what reading u get. ( you should actually get a reading of infinity in 1 and a reading of continuity or ohms in the other 2? Now the tricky part. Agin place a small tube or hose into the switch and blow into it, using the meter do the same test agin on all prongs. But now keep the pressure on the switch when u blow into it, in other words use ur tongue on one end of tube to not allow air to escape. When u test it agin now one of the prongs that once read infinity should now show continuity or ohms, and 1 of the other prongs that read ohms should now read infinity or open. . Motor Coupling If the washer won't spin or agitate the motor coupling might have failed. The motor coupling connects the motor to the washer transmission. It is designed to fail if the washer is overloaded in order to protect both the motor and Drive Belt If the washer won't spin or agitate, check the drive belt. If the belt is broken or if it isn't tight on the pulleys the washer won't spin or agitate properly. mode shifter and or Drive Motor If the washer won't spin or agitate the drive motor might be defective. This is not common. Check all of the other related parts to this symptom before replacing the motor. If the motor is visibly burned out or physically damaged, replace it. Stator Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the stator assembly might be burned out. The stator is essentially one half of a motor, it interacts with the tub by creating a strong electro-magnet. If the stator burns out the washer won't spin or agitate. Check the stator for continuity. This part is often misdiagnosed. Transmission or clutch assembly not engaging due to going out or slipping. Door or Lid Latch Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the lid switch assembly might be defective. This is a very common problem. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any electrical switches with an Ohm meter for continuity. The switches should have continuity according to their design. Door Lock Motor and Switch Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the door lock assembly should be checked. The door lock can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any switches on the door lock with an Ohm meter. The switches should have continuity according to their design. Motor Control Board If the washer won't spin or agitate the motor control board might be defective. The motor control board provides power to the motor as well as direction and force. If the motor control board is defective the washer may not work at all or function properly. CHECK THE CAM DOGS INSIDE THE AGITATOR, AS THEY WILL HINDER THE AGITATION PROCESS. However in G.E models the cam dogs are replaced with what is called an agitator coupler. (located at bottom of tub) Remember to check the agitator spline as well for worn broken teeth.

Videos in this link https://www.google.com/search?q=inlet+valve+replacement+ASKO+D5544 Funny plastic clip shown removed in this link https://genuineapplianceparts.com.au/dishwasher-parts/441586-asko-dishwasher-inlet-valve.html ..

turning it off at the power source then back on again after 15 minutes Should be plugged in, possibly under your sink, or if you know what breaker it's on you can turn it off there. Best to you

For most washers, just close the lid. When the washer is unbalanced open the lid, rearrange the clothes and shut the lid. Washer will start spinning again.