Asko W600 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

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ITS NOT SUPPOSE TO HEAT UP THE WATER COMES IN HOT FROM THE OUTLET? THE WATER TEMPERATURE SWITCH DETERMINES WEATHER IT USES HOT OF COLD ECT

Motor Coupling If the washer won't spin or agitate the motor coupling might have failed. The motor coupling connects the motor to the washer transmission. It is designed to fail if the washer is overloaded in order to protect both the motor and Drive Belt If the washer won't spin or agitate, check the drive belt. If the belt is broken or if it isn't tight on the pulleys the washer won't spin or agitate properly. Drive Motor If the washer won't spin or agitate the drive motor might be defective. This is not common. Check all of the other related parts to this symptom before replacing the motor. If the motor is visibly burned out or physically damaged, replace it. Stator Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the stator assembly might be burned out. The stator is essentially one half of a motor, it interacts with the tub by creating a strong electro-magnet. If the stator burns out the washer won't spin or agitate. Check the stator for continuity. This part is often misdiagnosed. Transmission or clutch assembly not engaging due to going out or slipping. Door or Lid Latch Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the lid switch assembly might be defective. This is a very common problem. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any electrical switches with an Ohm meter for continuity. The switches should have continuity according to their design. Door Lock Motor and Switch Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the door lock assembly should be checked. The door lock can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any switches on the door lock with an Ohm meter. The switches should have continuity according to their design. Motor Control Board If the washer won't spin or agitate the motor control board might be defective. The motor control board provides power to the motor as well as direction and force. If the motor control board is defective the washer may not work at all or function properly.

No agitation or spin? try these: Motor Coupling If the washer won't spin or agitate the motor coupling might have failed. The motor coupling connects the motor to the washer transmission. It is designed to fail if the washer is overloaded in order to protect both the motor and Drive Belt If the washer won't spin or agitate, check the drive belt. If the belt is broken or if it isn't tight on the pulleys the washer won't spin or agitate properly. Drive Motor If the washer won't spin or agitate the drive motor might be defective. This is not common. Check all of the other related parts to this symptom before replacing the motor. If the motor is visibly burned out or physically damaged, replace it. Stator Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the stator assembly might be burned out. The stator is essentially one half of a motor, it interacts with the tub by creating a strong electro-magnet. If the stator burns out the washer won't spin or agitate. Check the stator for continuity. This part is often misdiagnosed. Transmission or clutch assembly not engaging due to going out or slipping. Door or Lid Latch Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the lid switch assembly might be defective. This is a very common problem. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any electrical switches with an Ohm meter for continuity. The switches should have continuity according to their design. Door Lock Motor and Switch Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the door lock assembly should be checked. The door lock can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any switches on the door lock with an Ohm meter. The switches should have continuity according to their design. Motor Control Board If the washer won't spin or agitate the motor control board might be defective. The motor control board provides power to the motor as well as direction and force. If the motor control board is defective the washer may not work at all or function properly.

Washer fills with water then drains: The critical question is. Is the water is just running down the drain but the pump isn't running. If it is being pumped out, and you can hear the pump running just the same as when it's emptying prior to spin then it could be aborting the wash because it is, or it thinks it's overheating. ( due to defective water temperature switch) If water isn't being pumped out, but just draining away all the time, the washer will keep detecting there isn't enough water inside and top up with more. Modern washing machines should be sophisticated enough to realize something's wrong and abort with an error, but if not, it may continue washing or rinsing for a short while before losing enough water to trigger more coming in again. It can get stuck on this cycle indefinitely and it's called siphoning. Siphoning occurs when the end of the drain hose is lower than the level of the water inside the washing machine. Try raising the hose and see what happens. Also the drain hose should have some type of air gap where it fits into the stand pipe. It should not have an air tight fit. Other switch's to check would be the water inlet valve and the water pressure switch with a multi meter for continuity or OHMS.

some can be taken apart and inside is a spring loaded connection that pushes the button back out sometimes hard water and soap and debris can jam and stick the spring and u get what ur getting? you may be able to by pass the extra rinse by disconnection the prongs to it and taping them up?

Sounds like your circuit board has a problem. go to www.repairclinic.com. Look up washing machines and enter your model number, then a list of parts show up, they have a trouble shooting column. They have videos and the parts you will need.

Check to see if your model has a "out of balance" micro switch.If it's tripped from you moving the unit around you may have to reset it manually. It will be mounted somewhere close to the outer perimeter of the tub. Can't say exactly where. Could be high or low.

clear filter at pump

Hello Greg, welcome to FixYa.To address your post of the washer not spinning and your curiosity of a faulty pump...the pump may simply be obstructed preventing a proper drain, thus a compromised spin, they are directly related. These frontloaders will not spin until they drain sufficiently. (though a faulty drain pump is possible, it woud be the exception, not the rule).There is typically a drain filter in the pump as you may or may not know, based on your description it may be clogged. You'll need to access it, clean it out via draining it through the pump "emergency drain hose" before you can in the end open the door (though usually once drained to a safe level it will open under normal procedures) however there should be a door lock release on Asko built machines...including the W600 series.This is the procedure for machines of the past 10yrs. or so...(this is only an example, it may not be exact but essentially the same as yours)Hopefully this will help. Let me know if anything is unclear or If I can assist you going forward. Thank you for choosing FixYa and good luck going forward.Regards,Macmarkus :)

Hi

First make sure that nothing is blocking the drain pump assembly located inside the bottom of the unit, after this test the door lock-switch assembly. If the door lock-switch is also fine then the control board should be replaced. Hope this helps...please post back for further assistance.

Daniel

Hi

If the drain pump filter assembly located inside the lower front access panel is already cleaned then the issue is with the drain pump motor assembly that is bad and should be replaced. Hope this helps...please post back for further assistance.

Daniel

Hello
Try unplugging the power for 5 minutes to reset the washer CCU (central control unit), if it will not reset you will need to have the CCU tested for faults by a trained washer tech. The CCU is a control board and in effect is the electronic equivalent of the old mechanical dial type washer timers

Hi, welcome to FixYa.

I'll start by addressing the later part of your post first, and that is by saying I wouldn't run out and buy a new washer...not yet anyway.

You should be able to get the garments out of the washer by way of manually unlocking the door. The door can be opened manually, see below for instructions.

**Watch for lots of water if it hasn't drained though...see below for manually drain as well**

Usually if the door won't open it's due to the unit not draining sufficiently (this may explain the "shuddering" as well if pump has debris within it) or perhaps a fuse tripping, thus no power. Just to be thorough you should check the pump to insure the filter isn't clogged, in my opinion, or do you know where it is and how to check it ?

In the event the pump, filter or hose is clogged or obstructed, will prevent the door lock from releasing...potentially causing a fuse to trip.

This is by design, but it's easy to confirm or dismiss.

Check as follows...



Let me know if any of this isn't clear and I'll attempt to help you move forward by way of possibly emailing this info to you.

Once you've cleared the pump filter or ruled out it was indeed blocked or not, you can now pull the manual door lock release located in the same area.

i.e.



Once that has been done, I'd now check the fuses in both the washer as well as the dryer...if yours plugs into the dryer as most Asko do. To do so is as follows...

CHANGING THE FUSE

1. Remove the fuse holder insert with a screwdriver (1/4 turn).

2. Replace the fuse. (The fuse must be a 250V, 15amp slow-blow fuse.)

3. Fit the fuse holder insert with the fuse into the fuse holder.

Let me know how you make out. Thank you for choosing FixYa and good luck. Please take a moment to rate the info provided for you here today at FixYa.

Regards,

Macmarkus :)

Hello, welcome to FixYa.

I'll try and address both issues you mentioned. First you noted that you checked the circuit breaker but the unit has no power, but have you checked the fuses ?

**Unplug the unit from the dryer or the wall before servicing...safety first**

There are 2 slo-blow fuses on the Asko washer next to the power cord on the 20605 models, in fact with most Asko but some are enclosed in a metal box...yours are not.

Further to this, if they both check out as o.k. I'd suggest you remove the top cover and check the wiring going to and from the fuse hubs/holders as they can and do become burnt and worn due to metal fatigue over time.

You should then see similar to this ( this is an slightly later model Asko circa 1999, but the fuse and connectors will be similar )

i.e.


The fuse assembly subs to a complete kit now, like shown below.



To address the manual drain the water issue. You may also need to have a wet-dry shop vacuum or plenty of towels as there will be quite a bit of water present. (your model will actually have a small drain tube that allows to drain the machine before opening the filter)

Carefully remove the filter from the pump by turning it ( slowly to allow water out gradual )...the issue with these Asko pump inserts/filters is they can get so clogged up they are stuck and difficult to remove...

i.e.



these can often become clogged with items such as coins, hair-pins etc. that can actually damage the part. Once the filter is removed check the pump thoroughly as well as the hoses to rule out any other possible blockage.

Unfortunately once they are clogged to an extreme, removing the filter by normal means becomes difficult or impossible without breaking it as I alluded to.

The image I attached above is an example of a pump I had to remove and disassemble to clean it out so the filter could be removed/unscrewed, hence the need for the "worm-gear" clamps had to be used to replace the original "one-time" clamps.



If you indeed break this part during your attempts to remove it, a replacement is available, Asko original part # 88 010 69 and available at on-line retailer "repairclinic.com" for about $25-$30USD.

i.e.


Let me know how you make out or if you require further assistance. Thank you for choosing FixYa and good luck.

Regards,

Macmarkus :)

You have to just force it out there are no tricks except use a pair of multi grips to twist it & hope it doesnt break.Usually if it does break it won't affect it anyway.good luck

If your washer won't drain, check these:
It spins, but doesn't pump
It doesn't spin or pump
It pumps, but the water returns

It spins, but doesn't pump
If your washer spins but doesn't pump the water out, the drain line is probably clogged. In many washers, a small sock or other piece of clothing can get between the clothes tub and the outer tub that holds the water. If the clothing gets between the tubs, it may then get into the drain hose that's attached to the pump--or even into the pump itself. If it's in the pump, you need to remove the hoses from the pump and pull the item out.
To remove the sock from the outer tub port, open the washer's main access panel and remove the large-diameter rubber hose that connects the pump to the bottom of the outer tub. Then, using needle-nose pliers, try to grab and remove the clothing through the port.
Sometimes you can't remove the stuck clothing from below. Then you have to remove the agitator, top of the outer drum shield, and inner clothes tub. This isn't easy to do--and you may need special tools--so you might be happier getting a qualified appliance repair technician to do the job.
If the drain line isn't plugged, the problem may be with your pump. Even if the pump appears to be turning, the internal impeller may be broken. If so, you need to replace the pump.
It doesn't spin or pump
If your washer doesn't spin or pump water out but the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley. If so, you need to replace the pump. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it.
It pumps, but the water returns
If the water that pumps out of the machine goes back into the machine after the spin cycle, your washer may be siphoning the water from a laundry tub that has a slow drain, back into the washer. The usual remedy for this is to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is something stuck in the drain?) Also, check for these problems:
If the drain hose reaches more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub, cut off the excess.
If your drain hose is lower than the washer's cabinet, install an air gap/siphon break assembly.

Hi, Have you removed the back panel to insure the belt is on ? What about the spin cycle, will it spin ? (That will also tell you the belt is good by the way) I'll watch for your reply. Regards, Macmarkus :)

locate the filter and clean, this should cure

does it fill with water,may be a valve fault,or timer.cant really be anything else.also check pump