20 Most Recent Asko W640 - Page 2 Questions & Answers

see if there is a blockage in the level switch. the switch operates on air pressure within the dip tube and the diaphragm in the switch. there may be a spider's nest in the tube or a wasp's nest in the tube.

Hi, I am in NSW, worked in Sydney branch until 2005, now run service business in Blue Mountains.
I posted that solution as a bit of fun, stumbled upon this site the other day while researching reviews of other brands of white goods and the problems people have and complain about.
Which state are you in and working for? I am happy to share ideas etc,,,do you work with other brands as well, or soley Asko?

We got the same problem 2 weeks ago. Overode it by swiching everything off and then back on, wish we hadn't as te machine stopped washing 1 week later. Motor has gone $300 and it took the electronic controler out as well $300. Labour $100 plus call out $95. It'sa serious falut and should get it fixed which begs the question why have fault indicator ro this problem if you cna overide it. In addition you probbaly have a minor water leak from above the motor, which can be fixed with silicone. Asko saya it's machine lasts 20 years, think again as for a $1900 machine very disappointed. Australia

some maytag panel just pull off from the bottom,they are just a tight fit.and some have screws under the hob.

type in manuals on your browser bar and a list of sites will come up click on one,type in your details and you should get a pdf file to download your manual, good luck

possibly a segment has raised on the motor armature or a faulty motor brush. pop off the belt and put it into a spin cycle to see if you still hear the noise- if so the fault is with the motor as the drum will be still. any scraping sounds in the drum may be a lost bra wire.

They never make these things easy. Help in the link https://www.google.com/search?q=Asko+dishwasher+D5634+drain+pump+replacement ..

Question edited for clarity. Duplicated question deleted. Refresh the page to see your question. When a machine stops mid cycle is usually because the pump is jammed with something that was in the wash or the pump has failed. If the board calls for the pump to run and it doesn't within 2 seconds or so, it will stop all actions. You can try a proper Power Reset. Disconnect over night, press and hold the power button for a full minute, then plug is back in. It may also be a Control Board fault. Ideas in the link. https://www.google.com/search?q=Asko+W6424W+washing+machine+froze+mid+cycle+ll+of+the+lights+flashing ..

No wash agitation or spin? try these: WATER PRESSURE SWITCH: This switch keeps your washer from overflowing. It is responsible for shutting off the power to the fill valve and redirects the power to the timer to start the washing machine running once the correct water level has been reached. Meter check ur water pressure switch? You can test it with a meter and with a manual test? ( first locate it in the panel, it has a plastic clear tube hose going into it, remove that tube from its connection, now put another small tube or hose into the slot where it was and have the machine set to wash cycle with water in it. Blow into the other end of the tube. If the machine starts to wash. the pressure switch is more than likely good ( No wash starts - then THE DIAPHRAGM IS BAD AND SWITCH HAS TO BE REPLACED) another test u can do is Remove the hose and submerge in water. Seal one end and blow air into the other end and look for bubbles. Check for an obstruction in the hose as well. Or take the original hose tube and plug one end and blow into it AT the other end, it should be hard and have pressure, if it is easy to blow and u dont feel any pressure and it feels like the air is going out ? Sometimes they get busted open or a pin hole and release air causing the water switch diaphragm to not open. Another test u can make with a multi meter is by testing the prongs individually. # 15,16,17 (don't worry to much bout the numbers IF U GET THEM WRONG) place ur meter prongs on both out side prongs or connectors of the switch. (where the wire plugs into) take note of weather it shows OHMS or infinity ( open or close circuit) ? Now place the meter on the left outside and the middle prong, take note agin what it shows. Now place meter prong on the right outside and the middle prong. Agin take note what reading u get. ( you should actually get a reading of infinity in 1 and a reading of continuity or ohms in the other 2? Now the tricky part. Agin place a small tube or hose into the switch and blow into it, using the meter do the same test agin on all prongs. But now keep the pressure on the switch when u blow into it, in other words use ur tongue on one end of tube to not allow air to escape. When u test it agin now one of the prongs that once read infinity should now show continuity or ohms, and 1 of the other prongs that read ohms should now read infinity or open. . Motor Coupling If the washer won't spin or agitate the motor coupling might have failed. The motor coupling connects the motor to the washer transmission. It is designed to fail if the washer is overloaded in order to protect both the motor and Drive Belt If the washer won't spin or agitate, check the drive belt. If the belt is broken or if it isn't tight on the pulleys the washer won't spin or agitate properly. mode shifter and or Drive Motor If the washer won't spin or agitate the drive motor might be defective. This is not common. Check all of the other related parts to this symptom before replacing the motor. If the motor is visibly burned out or physically damaged, replace it. Stator Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the stator assembly might be burned out. The stator is essentially one half of a motor, it interacts with the tub by creating a strong electro-magnet. If the stator burns out the washer won't spin or agitate. Check the stator for continuity. This part is often misdiagnosed. Transmission or clutch assembly not engaging due to going out or slipping. Door or Lid Latch Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the lid switch assembly might be defective. This is a very common problem. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any electrical switches with an Ohm meter for continuity. The switches should have continuity according to their design. Door Lock Motor and Switch Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the door lock assembly should be checked. The door lock can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any switches on the door lock with an Ohm meter. The switches should have continuity according to their design. Motor Control Board If the washer won't spin or agitate the motor control board might be defective. The motor control board provides power to the motor as well as direction and force. If the motor control board is defective the washer may not work at all or function properly. CHECK THE CAM DOGS INSIDE THE AGITATOR, AS THEY WILL HINDER THE AGITATION PROCESS. However in G.E models the cam dogs are replaced with what is called an agitator coupler. (located at bottom of tub) Remember to check the agitator spline as well for worn broken teeth.

Videos in this link https://www.google.com/search?q=inlet+valve+replacement+ASKO+D5544 Funny plastic clip shown removed in this link https://genuineapplianceparts.com.au/dishwasher-parts/441586-asko-dishwasher-inlet-valve.html ..

turning it off at the power source then back on again after 15 minutes Should be plugged in, possibly under your sink, or if you know what breaker it's on you can turn it off there. Best to you

It is so common that the washing machine can make terrible noise in many ways and is a common fault. In all occasions it is important that your observation is most important and so is vital to the identification /rectification and solution. If you have noticed that machine is vibrating when it is running then the motor /drum suspension has to be inspected. Since these fittings are located on the underside of the machine it is important that you look for the noise with a good inspection lamp. Manually turn the motor and drum and listen for the noise, if so the motor bearings, the drum agitator shaft and fittings must be checked. Also the suspensions which include the shock absorbers and springs, the body clamps must be checked to be in correct alignment and not changed in position. Tightening of the mounting is also very important. Finally in most cases a drop of OIL or smear of grease on the moving parts cane solve most issues.

Check this link :

http://www.espares.co.uk/advice/washing-machines/a/7/1210/wobbly-washing-machine-or-tumble-dryer.html

For most washers, just close the lid. When the washer is unbalanced open the lid, rearrange the clothes and shut the lid. Washer will start spinning again.

screw is down inside of top backwards thread then remove agitator

Splashing in the detergent supply drawer. Perfectly normal.

Hello sir madam, I put a detergent on the way this morning in my ASKO 12002 washing machine but IT just got stuck at n ° 4 of its program then did not rinse at n ° 5; then, it did not wring out either at n ° 7, or anything and arrived at 8 ... it therefore goes through the different numbers but without any action ... to remain filled with water in the tank! What should I do, please? I really appreciate my machine which I have had for a long time and would love to have it repaired. Thank you in advance for your information and various tips. And see you soon, I hope. Cordially, Catherine D. BELGIUM

If your dishwasher uses a quick connect hose to the faucet, you can disconnect it while the dishwasher is running ONLY IF the water is shut off and pressure release button is pushed in to release water pressure inside hose. If the dishwasher is calling for water, it will accommodate for a short loss of time. Remember to turn water back on when hoses are reconnected.

Disconnect it from mains supply for 30 minutes to reset the electronics. You should hear the door unlock as you cut power.

It's goosed

Edited text for clarity. Moved Category form Drills to Asko washing machineThat is a power leakage to earth. It is either a fault with the motor or a damaged wire.