20 Most Recent Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer - Page 3 Questions & Answers

Try looking online for another manual. Or call anyone who sells your machine. Me thinks the solution is simple, but you need to talk to any seller of your machine, and soon.

f-ll is too much soap

Hello, the F13 means "Dispenser Circuit Error", if the dispenser motor is not able to be driven to its proper position.
Check the following:
1. Check mechanical linkage from dispenser motor to the top of the dispenser.
2. Check wire harness connection to the dispenser motor and Central Control Unit and lastly
3. Check dispenser motor.
Thanks

Could be the drum bearing worn. If the seal has degraded then you could be getting rust from the bearing in the drum water

here is a answer from the archives... http://www.fixya.com/support/t9904066-washer_not_working_giving_me_f_30 check here too with model # in hand... part and video install info it's not hard to fix. appliancepartspros.com

the only thing you can do is to go to the manufactures website and download the user manual and check the trouble shooting guide for a possible cause for this problem eric

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We're sorry to learn of your experience. We would like to discuss this further with you. Please email us at [email protected] at your earliest convenience with your name, address, a phone number and best time to reach you, the website you visited (fixya) along with your model and serial number.

F28 code with no red light showing for the locked door. The washer would lock the door and then become stuck in the locked position. I had to reach up and pull the latch release manually to get it to open, but then the same thing would happen. I eventually could feel another wire was up inside there and not connected to anything. I had to remove the top of the washer along with the door and door trim ring. Then removed the front control panel (the front panel swings out from the left side and is more or less kind of hinged on the right. Dont swing it too far just enough to pull it straight out after the left side is 4 to 6 inches out. Leave it plugged in and set it on top of the washer) I then removed the screws to the steel front panel that is around the door. Remove the latch and pull it out the right side just enough to get at the broken wire and the clip it came out of. I soldered the wire back onto the clip and reassembled the washer. It is working great now. Hope that helps someone else. I was almost ready to buy some expensive parts that would not have fixed the problem in my case. Good luck!

Have you tried running a cold wash? Could be a heating fault. If it runs a cold wash fine then id go with that as a starting point

The control board is faulty.

You will need to remove the lower kick panel directly below the door to gain access to the inside cabinet to see where the leak may be coming from. The panel comes off by removing the screws under the bottom front edge of the panel. With the screws removed, the panel will drop down, then come off.

NOTE: Propping the two front feet of the washer up with something (a 2x4 works well for this) will give you better access to the screws.

The most common source of leakage on this washer is the rubber bellow around the door. It can develop cracks or tears over time and require replacement. A tell-tale sign is the front counterweight (looks like a concrete block on the front of the wash tub) looking wet. The counterweight will remain dry if the tub is sealed properly. From the inside of the washer, pull the rubber folds back on the door bellow and inspect the perimeter for any rips or tears. If the bellow is damaged, it must be replaced. The following link explains how:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385211-replacing_door_bellow_whirlpool_duet

If the bellow is intact, check the rear bellow seal where it connects to the front of the wash tub. If the clamp comes loose the bellow can shift and begin to leak. Tighten if necessary.

Check the drain pump and hoses to ensure they are not leaking. The drain pump is directly in the front under the wash tub.

Check the area directly below the wash tub. If the leak is coming from the wash tub iteself, you may have a bad tub seal. A replacement gasket doesn't cost much at all, but the labor involved is extensive.

Another simple problem is the dispenser tube(s) that come through the door bellow. Sometimes, these small tubes will work their way behind the rubber in the door and leak when the washer attempts to fill or rinse. This is a simple matter of adjusting the tubes to ensure they are seated through the door gasket properly.

If you have any questions, or require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

NOTE: You can refer to searspartsdirect.com for some excellent exploded view diagrams of your washer for reference in locating components.

all I can say to that is if you arrange the bath rugs in a balanced way so they are equally distributed then the problem should go away eric

go to the manufactures website and download the user manual its normally a free download and look in the problem shooting section eric

Condition: Lid not opened between loads Check/Repair: The main electronic control board doesn't detect the lid opening between loads. Unplug the washer and check the wiring connections between the lid lock/switch and the main electronic control board. If the wiring connections are okay, replace the lid lock/switch.

Front loaders are bad about that. It needs to be inspected internally for damaged or worn shocks, springs and weights. Some have liquid counter balances. If you post the model number, I may be of more help.