If you open the top you will see a circular disc with a thin rubber tube attached to it. This is an air pressure switch that switched off the water supply when it reaches its level. When the machine is unplugged remove the tube from the switch and blow into it. It should be clear. Next blow into the little fitting on the switch , if the tube is ok ,and it should click. Either the switch is faulty or the tube is blocked,detached from the machine or burst. Hope this helps.
see this causes and fix it. God bless youBelt, Water Pump
If the washer won't drain the pump belt might
have broken or might have worn out. Check the belt and replace if it
shows signs of excessive wear.
Clogged Pump or Hose
If the washer won't drain there might be a
clogged pump or hose. It's common for small socks or other small
clothing items to get into the water drain system and clog the hose
leading to the pump or the pump itself. Remove the hoses from the pump
in order to remove the article of clothing. Keep in mind that any water
in the washer will pour out of the hoses when removed.
Drain Pump
If the washer won't drain water the drain
pump might be defective. It's also common for a small sock or other
article of clothing to get caught in the drain pump or in the drain
hose. Check both for an obstruction before replacing the pump.
Drive Belt
If the washer won't drain, should check the
drive belt. If the belt is broken or if it isn't tight on the pulleys
the washer won't drain properly, if at all.
Lid Switch Assembly
If the washer won't drain the lid switch
assembly might be defective. This is a very common problem. The lid
switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any
electrical switches with an Ohm meter for continuity. The switches
should have continuity according to their design.
Door Lock Motor and Switch Assembly
If the washer won't drain the door lock
assembly should be checked. The door lock can fail either mechanically
or electrically. Test any switches on the door lock with an Ohm meter.
The switches should have continuity according to their design.
Drain Hose
If the washer won't drain water check the
drain hose. Be sure the hose did not get kinked behind the washer. Also,
remove the hose from the pump and check it for obstructions.
Coin Trap
If the washer won't drain the coin trap may
be clogged. This washer is equipped with a device near the water pump
called a coin trap. The purpose of this device is to trap any foreign
materials that make their way down the drain. Normally, the coin trap
can be accessed through an access panel. It is designed with the
homeowner in mind and is normally easy to clean out.
see the causes and remedies:Power from the house
Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged
in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses
two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if
only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of
the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are
connected.
Heating Element
Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit
breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of
special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No
continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it. The
proper ohm reading can be found in the service manual or sometimes on
the tech sheet located somewhere on your dryer (9- 13 ohms is a common
reading). Electric heating elements aren't repairable. The heating element is easy to replace. Check our videos for other types of dryer heating elements.
Thermal fuse / Thermal Cut Out / Thermistor
On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel or behind the front cover.
The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black
resin and mounted in a white plastic housing They are also round and
made of metal and plastic. The thermistor is located on the blower
housing usually. If any of the fuses do not have continuity replace it.
Check for continuity if none replace, But before replacing check for
obstructions. The fuses are very inexpensive and easy to replace.
Wiring
A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at
the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still
tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially
defective. Check all connections, make sure they are tight. Loose
connections can lead to a fire. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.
Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not even go to spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside. It's worth a try!
Here are my guidance notes for checking both the drain motorfilter and the drain motor ;-0)
-------------------------------------
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!) and most are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play!
REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT! It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. If it doesn't work then the motor is malfunctioning!
Hope the filter is the problem and good luck!
John C
Hello, W/D here. What you are seeing is the suds (SUD) error code, followed by a long drain fault code (F02). This does not necessarily indicate that you need to change anything at this time. When the machine senses too much suds, the error code is displayed, when too much suds are actually present, a longer drain time results. Duets are HE (high efficiency) machines, and require a detergent that produces little suds. If you are using HE detergent, cut back on it until you can run a cycle without getting the SUD/F02 alarms. If you are not using HE detergent (we don't either), you really have to be careful with the amount of detergent used. Press PAUSE/CANCEL twice to clear the display. Run a cycle without any detergent to flush the machine. It is advisable to check that the drain hose isn't plugged or have a kink in it. Make sure that the pump is running. You may need to check the electrical connections at the pump. You might check the filter on the drain pump for debris or foreign objects, which might cause the drain cycle to be extended. If limiting the detergent, and nothing was found in checking the other items listed, then the pump may need to be replaced. Best regards, --W/D-- Please help us by rating our solutions. Thanks.
The control is unable to properly detect motor speed and the machine will shut down. If a failure occurs during high-speed spin the door will be unlocked after 3 minutes.
Potential Causes
•Check wire harness connections between the Drive Motor/Tachometer and the Motor ControlUnit (MCU), and between the MCU and the Central Control Unit (CCU)
•Check the Drive Motor •Check the MCU •Check the Wire Harness
Remove the three screws on the bottom of the front panel. you will see the plastic pump ( has the big rubber hose hook to it) on the front of the pump there is a large plastic screwed on cover turn counter clokwise to remove than the fillter pulls straight out.
"F21" is a Long Drain error code. This is an indication that you may have an obstruction somewhere in the drainage system. Most commonly, this is an indication something is lodged in the drain pump or the inlet line running from the wash tub to the pump. There is a white screw off cap on the drain pump that you can remove to inspect the pump impeller and clean. The following link explains:
Included is a follow-on link that explains how to check the drain pump to clean. On some model washers there is no screw off cap on the pump and you will have to remove the inlet hose that runs from the bottom of the wash tub to the inlet side of the drain pump. Removing the inlet hose for inpsection is recommended on all these washers just to ensure there isn't anything lodged in the line. Debris and small articles of clothing such as socks or under garments can become lodged in this area as well causing the drain cycle to fail.
NOTE: The washer will not complete a wash cycle until the conditions causing the error are corrected. In addition, a "SUD" or "SD" (Suds lock) error code can also often occur in conjunction with the "F21" error code. This is due to air being detected in the drainage system, which can occur if the pump is not running, or if you have an obstruction BEFORE the pump. You need to remove the inlet hose from the pump to ensure it is also not blocked. Correct your drainage system fault, and the SUD error (if displayed) should go away.
NOTE: If these preliminary measures do not correct your problem, you may have to replace the drain pump. It does not take much to damage the pump impeller or motor. Since the error code is generated if the drain cycle exceeds 8 minutes, if the pump is damaged and can't pump at the required volume, the error code will continue to appear until the pump is replaced. If the pump requires replacement, the following link explains how:
These are very simple repairs that you can perform yourself without the assistance of a repairman.
If the wash tub is full of water, you may want to use a wet/dry shop vac to pull a vacuum on the drain line and drain the wash tub. This will minimize any potential mess you may have to clean up.
Replacement parts (if required) can be purchased at any of the following websites:
Prices vary between sites, so shop and compare. The first three sites listed also have helpful exploded view parts illustrations to assist you with locating and properly identifying the parts you may need.
NOTE: The error codes are not listed in the owner's manual. For an explanation of all the error codes, each one of these washers comes with a technical data sheet inside.
To access, you will need to remove the lower toe panel under the door. The access screws are located under the bottom front edge of the panel. You may have to prop the two front feet of the washer up for better access ( a 2x4 works well for this). With the screws removed, the panel should drop down, then come off. If the tech sheet isn't directly behind the panel, it will be affixed to one of the interior cabinet walls.
The tech sheet lists all error code definitions, troubleshooting data, diagnostics procedures and wiring diagrams. I mention the tech sheet because you may need it to troubleshoot this error code.
Read through the information provided and if you have questions, please post back and let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.
NOTE: If you determine the pump to be defective, and the pump housing is still in good condition, you only need to replace the pump motor. However, the pump is usually sold as an entire assembly and the motor CANNOT be orderd as a separate item. There are several outlet stores that advertise on Ebay and sell the pump motor for much less than ordering an entire pump assembly. Replacement is simple and you do not have to remove the pump from the washer. Just drain the pump as previously mentioned and disconnect the electrical plug from the motor. Remove the three screws holding the motor to the pump housing and replace as necessary. Just make sure the o-ring is intact and in place. To get a good seal, you can lubricate the o-ring with a thin film of petroleum jelly.
Same problem here. Betcha' a buck it's the pump going/gone bad... Been there, done that back in 2007, so time to call the repair dude. Thank heavens for warranties! You can try all sorts of things, such as clearing the drain hose, unplugging for 3 minutes,
It appears your timer/main controller/CCU has failed in this instance.
For replacement parts - head on over to PartSelect.com or RepairClinic.com and enter in your full model number for a full parts listing. I recommend both sites because ...
FixYa has no affiliation with either site - I have been using and recommending them for years - trouble free.
PartSelect has a great schematic database for locating the part on your unit and great "testimonials" for each part that often times includes HOW-TO information. RepairClinic has pictures of each part they sell and also a great how-to and troubleshooting for basic repairs.
If your unit has never been serviced - there should still be an original service manual enclosed in plastic taped to the inside of the shell. In the service manual are Error codes, maintenance procedures, and troubleshooting steps you can follow.
Anything too complicated or beyond your scope should be handled by a professional.
If you think you want to tackle the repair - and have gotten stuck on a step - reply to your question and I will be glad to help you out.
Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question!$!$
It appears your timer/main controller/CCU has failed in this instance.
For replacement parts - head on over to PartSelect.com or RepairClinic.com and enter in your full model number for a full parts listing. I recommend both sites because ...
FixYa has no affiliation with either site - I have been using and recommending them for years - trouble free.
PartSelect has a great schematic database for locating the part on your unit and great "testimonials" for each part that often times includes HOW-TO information. RepairClinic has pictures of each part they sell and also a great how-to and troubleshooting for basic repairs.
If your unit has never been serviced - there should still be an original service manual enclosed in plastic taped to the inside of the shell. In the service manual are Error codes, maintenance procedures, and troubleshooting steps you can follow.
Anything too complicated or beyond your scope should be handled by a professional.
If you think you want to tackle the repair - and have gotten stuck on a step - reply to your question and I will be glad to help you out.
Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question$$!##
April 8 2002 DIV 26 SOURCE 110 KENMORE ELITE HE3 & HET WASHERS "ADD-A-GARMENT" INDICATOR LIGHT ON DOOR WON'T UNLOCK WHEN PAUSE/CANCEL BUTTON IS DEPRESSED.
MODELS: See additional page for Kenmore model numbers
COMPLAINT: Due to a Microcomputer Machine Control software error , the ADD-A-GARMENT feature becomes inoperative.
CORRECTION: The Microcomputer Machine Control must be replaced with a service part that has been reprogrammed to prevent ADD-A-GARMENT feature loss.
PARTS: Order electronic control listed on this service flash by model from Division 26 , Source 110 following normal ordering procedure.
MERCHANDISE CODES: WASHER Service Flash - Model Nurnbers for: Kenmore Elite HE3 & HE3t Washers: "ADD-A-GARMENT" indicator light on door won't unlock when Pause/Cancel button is depressed. Kenmore models with serial Numbers beginning with CSL23 through CSM04 11042822200 11042824200 11042826200 11042832200 11042834200 11042836200 11042922200 11042924200 11042926200 11042932200 11042934200 11042936200 Electronic conrrol p/n 8181900 Electronic control p/n 8181899
Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question
FH error indicates that either you have no water coming into the washer, or very little water. Since you can see it filling, the error indicates low flow. A flow meter in the unit detects if 10.5 gallons fills the tub within 8 minutes; yours must not be. This will turn off the inlet valves and the error code will be displayed. Check the following:
- Make sure you don't have a siphoning problem. This occurs when there is no air gap for the drain line at the standpipe. The standpipe is the drain pipe at the wall where the washer drain line is placed. With no air gap, a vacuum is created, and water will begin to drain from the wash tub prematurely. To prevent this from occurring, follow this advice:
•The standpipe should be 2 inches in diameter to allow a sufficient air gap between the top of the standpipe and the drain hose. •The standpipe should be a minimum of 34" from the floor, and should not exceed 72 inches in height. •DO NOT seal the top of the standpipe. Many consumers seal the standpipe in the belief that this will prevent overflows, or get rid of drain odors. This often creates more problems than solutions. •DO NOT place the drain hose too far down into the pipe. Water stays in the drain trap area of the standpipe. If the end of the drain hose rests in this area, no air gap is created, and this can also cause siphoning. 4 to 6 inches is sufficient. •The drain hose length must not exceed 10 feet in length. Excessive drain hose length can cause drain problems and back wash. - Verify Drain Pump operation. Unplug the washer and take the lower panel under the door off by removing the three screws under the bottom edge. With the screws removed, the panel should drop down then come off. If it sticks, tap either side and it should come free. The pump is located directly under the wash tub in the front of the washer. Verify the electrical connections are good and that the pump is running. Open the pump access and remove, once you have all the water drained. Check the drain pump for foreign objects and debris. Check the pump impeller and make sure there's nothing caught in it. Items as small as toothpicks or cotton swabs have been known to stop this pump from working.
- Verify Flow meter operation and that the Pressure Switch hoses are intact and connected properly. Remove the three screws in the top panel along the back of the washer. With the screws removed, the panel should slide back, then, lift off. The flowmeter will be located on the left-hand side of the washer (facing from the front) between the inlet valve and dispenser. It's a small white plastic device with hoses attached. The pressure switch is located on the right-hand side of the washer in the rear. It is a round plastic device with electrical connections and a hose attached. There should be a tech sheet directly behind the panel or attached to one of the interior cabinet walls. Please refer to this sheet to learn how to perform diagnostics, how to locate the components mentioned, and the specific measurements required in determining if the components are good or bad.
"F/H" indicates that either you have no water coming into the washer, or very little water.
If you have NO water coming into the wash tub after 30 seconds the error code is displayed. Check the following:
- Inlet water valve may be clogged. Clean inlet screens if necessary. - Make sure water taps are on. - Check inlet hoses for kinks or clogs.
If you HAVE water filling the wash tub, and after 8 minutes, 10.5 gallons of water has been detected by the flowmeter, but there has not been a detected a Pressure Switch trip, the inlet valves are turned off and the error code is displayed. Check the following:
- Make sure you don't have a siphoning problem. Click the following link for instructions: http://www.fixya.com/support/r587481-prevent_washer_siphoning - Verify Drain Pump operation. - Verify Flowmeter operation. - Verify the Pressure Switch hoses are intact and connected properly.
To access the Drain Pump - UNPLUG the washer and take the lower panel under the door off by removing the three screws under the bottom edge. HINT: Propping the front feet of the washer up can make access much easier. I use a couple small blocks of wood. With the screws removed, the panel should drop down then come off. If it sticks, tap either side and it should come free. The pump is located directly under the wash tub in the front of the washer. Verify the electrical connections are good and that the pump is running. If not, click on the following link to check the pump for obstructions:
To access the Flowmeter and Pressure Switch - remove the three screws in the top panel along the back of the washer. With the screws removed, the panel should slide back, then, lift off. The flowmeter will be located on the left-hand side of the washer (facing from the front) between the inlet valve and dispenser. It's a small white plastic device with hoses attached. The pressure switch is located on the right-hand side of the washer in the rear. It is a round plastic device with electrical connections and a hose attached.
There should be a tech sheet directly behind the panel or attached to one of the interior cabinet walls. Please refer to this sheet to learn how to perform diagnostics, how to locate the components mentioned, and the specific measurements required determining if the components are good or bad.
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