20 Most Recent Whirlpool Estate TAWS750PQ 27-Inch Washer - Page 4 Questions & Answers

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You may have a blocked vent.
Remove the connecting vent from the rear of the dryer.
Run a load of laundry.
Use timed dry at 50 minutes if possible.
If it dries correctly clean and repair the exhaust vent.

Check your lid switch. The symptoms of your washer stopping at the rinse cycle is a commonly caused by a lid switch malfunction. The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug. If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3557193-replacing_a_lid_switch

On some models, the lid switch is located under the top casing by one of the lid hinges. You will know if you if you have this type of switch, because It does not have a lid strike and the small hole on the right hand side of the wash tub will not be present. This switch is actuated (toggled) by a rod on the lid hinge. With this type of switch, if you locate it and it can be toggled by hand, you may only need to adjust the actuator by bending it slightly.

A replacement lid switch (if required) can be purchased at any of the following web sites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

The average price is about $20 - $30. Prices differ between these sites, so shop and compare. If you still have questions, please let me know. If the suggestions I have listed do not match your washer symptoms, please post back and elaborate more on what the washer is/is not doing so I can provide you with better assistance. Please include your model number (located on a nameplate along the wash tub rim under the lid) so that I may be able to assist you better. I hope this information is helpful to you. NOTE: You do not have to drain the wash tub to perfomr this repair.

NOTE: The burning smell could be coming from the lid switch. Since, it is mounted under the top of the washer case, you may not notice any signs of arcing or burned wires.

need a new transmision it is out very price sometimes and alot of work

Estate is a Whirlpool Family Appliance. On this direct drive washing machine there is what is called a BRAKE & DRIVE TUBE also called a clutch. Replace this clutch. MAKE SURE that there is NOTHING foreign in between the inner and out tub.

hi friend,
hope this helps u
reset button will be in the panel provided at the top of the washer
or
if u still not solved ur problem
go to website
www.devicemanuals.com/guide/.../Whirlpool-manuals.html -
and download the user manual
please rate me.............
thank u for using fixya
regards
sivaranjini

HI, Check the following to address this issue further.

Note: Normal drying time for a dryer is about 45 minutes (some may take up to an hour).

1. Venting
Make sure the dryer vent hose, as well as the rest of the vent duct, is not clogged.

Unless regular maintenance is performed, chances are there is a lot of lint accumulated inside the dryer. This might affect the drying time and could be a fire hazard. Make sure to have your dryer cleaned regularly. Because this might involve taking most of the dryer apart, it is recommended to have a qualified appliance repairman perform this task.

2. Thermostat
There are a couple of cycling thermostats inside the dryer. If one of them breaks down, it might affect the dryer's performance. Replace the defective thermostat. These thermostats are located in the dryer vent duct and sometimes mounted on the blower assembly as well.

It could be a feewe things. Check to make sure the hoses are tightened down. It also could be the dial ( switch itself )

Possibly motor tacometer , but maybe electronic speed control problem. Suggest call service agent for confirm and estimate.

Using a volt/ohm meter check the thermal fuse on the top left side of the heater canister for continuity. If no continuity replace the thermal fuse and the hi limit thermostat on the bottom of the heater canister.
These parts come as a set.
If I had a model number i could be more specific.

check your water pump. there maybe something in it. If there is you may have to replace the pump

I found a 50/50 solution of vinegar and warm water will generally do the trick.

Your drain line is too low or has no air gap causing it to siphon water. Raise the drain line. Do not use a rag or duct tape to keep it in the drain hole.

There are a couple of possibilities with this problem:

One is the timer is not sending the proper power to the motor to reverse direction, thus the pump will not turn the correct way to remove water and the transmission will not go from agitate to spin.

Another possibility is that the motor is bad and does not spin in the reverse direction to do as above.

Lastly the wiring harness may have a break not allowing the power to go to the motor during the spin cycle.

All of these are possible, but most likely it is the former two and not the latter possibility.

The condition you describe is commonly referred to as "siphoning". It occurs when a vacuum is created on the drain line which causes the water to be siphoned out of the wash tub as it fills. The following link explains what siphoning is and how to correct it:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r587481-prevent_washer_siphoning

Your problem may be a simple matter of drain hose placement. Read through the link I provided and let me know if this does not solve your problem. I hope this helps you.

there problem in brakes wd40 spray on brakes than spin

The drive coupling has failed. Remove two screws on the console of the machine. As you pull forward on the console, roll the console back. This will expose the underside of the console. On the top of the cabinet you will see two brass looking clips. Remove those using a screwdriver and prying up. Unplug the lid switch. Remove the whole cabinet by rolling forward. At the bottom of the machine in the front is the pump. remove the two clips holding it on. Carefully remove. Remove the two clips holding the motor on. On the back side of the motor is the coupling. One side connects to the motor, the other to the gear case. Replace and reinstall all parts.

under the top half of the agitator there are 4 agitator dogs. these pieces have edges to them that catch the inside of the upper agitator and if they are worn down, and they do wear, it will not move the agitator for you. hope this helps.

If the model # is the same as the line above... CLICK HERE to see your manual.

Thanks for using FixYa!! a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

First, in many cases, the dryer actually IS heating, but there’s just not enough airflow out the vent to take advantage of it, so the end result’s the same as ‘no heat’.So first determine that there’s a strong flow of air out the vent. I can’t stress this enough - low airflow’s the no. 1 cause of dryer problems, not to mention dryer fires. Then check if there’s any heat in the drum when running empty. Note: there's finally a simple, inexpensive tool to test airflow in Whirlpool-built dryers!
If there doesn’t seem to be any heat at all, first check for 240V present at the dryer. I can tell you that many hours have been wasted over the years by not *doing this first*!Neglecting this is probably THE most common mistake of the novice appliance tech (and some pros who should know better! <g> ).

If you have a voltmeter or 240V bulb, just check for 240V at the dryer term. block, and you will save some aggravation and possibly a service call.

If you have no way to test this, or you are at all uneasy about messing with 240V (you HAVE read my disclaimer, right?), just go to your breaker box and throw the dryer breaker off/on several times.(If your dryer is connected with fuses, replace both of them and try it again.)Sometimes - just sometimes - resetting the breaker will restore 240V, especially in damp basements.
(On the handiest tool list: a 240V/10W bulb with leads/alligator clips, carried in your pocket - a real timesaver, and far superior to neon testers)
How you proceed from here depends on your abilities, and I’m not able to get too involved in this short article.I’d probably suggest calling a pro if you’ve proven 240V to the machine, there definitely is no heat, and there’s plenty of air out the vent. A pro sees this problem every day and can usually diagnose it in 10-15 minutes.
I will say to those of you who are ‘handy’ - start at the heat source and work *backwards*.If there’s nothing obvious (burnt wiring, etc) attach that 240V bulb to the element leads (or gas valve 120V supply), and fire the dryer up.
Light = open element (gas control/ignition system problems).
No light = other problems (thermal fuse, t'stat, etc).

Keep it simple.This one usually is.




courtesy: davesrepair




regards
iversh