Whirlpool Estate TAWS750PQ 27-Inch Washer - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

bad inlet valve or water temperature switch

this sounds as if the drive motor for the drum to rotate has some sort of obstruction to it's turning freely , unplug unit then remove the lower back panel , locate drive motor ther on bottom (round thing) see how difficult it is to rotate the drive belt one complete drum rotation with your hand , if drum does not turn freely then i suggest looking further for a missing drum roller or maybe a forign object getting caught down in drum lip seal

3.2 Cubic Feet

Pull off dispenser cap if it has one or top cap. Underneath will be another cap to remove. Finally there should be a 7/16 bolt to remove and then pull off.

if the washer lights up and when u push start button it should click if it does then I think u have a water inlet problem. also check where supply hoses hook up to washer take them off and make sure that rhe screens on value are not blocked u can clean with old tooth brush. Hope this helps

does not have a belt change the motor coupling

I need more info about the machine. Does it make any noise when the start button is pressed, if you can hear the motor turning then more than likely your belt is either after slipping off the drum or breaking. you should be able to access the belt either by the back of the macine or the top to see if the belt is broke or just after slipping. Another problem it could be is that the capacitor in your macine could have blown. To test this you press start, open the door of the machine, spin the drum by hand and close the door before the drum comes to a stop, if the drum continues to rotate after you close the door then you know it is the capacitor that is blown, this needs to be replaced either by an electrician or a specialist as it is possibe to connect the capacitor wrong and the result would be the capacitor exploding damaging your hand. Always plug out the machine before opening the top or back of the machine.

You can replace the base but the price is a little steep. You might want to consider getting a new washer or look on Craigslist and find another Whirlpool top load washer. Here is the base to order if you want to replace it. Keep me posted!

Possible that the program controller is not proceeding sequentially to the program cycle and so there is a missed spin at some point. Check the connections from the program controller, before it can be suspected.

The bearings are likely shot. But it's possible the spanner nut that holds the basket in place is loose or damaged. Remove the agitator to check spanner nut. Changing bearings is a big job, but if you are handy with tools and good at keeping your cool you can do it yourself.

Hello, here is a great link to check out everything you can think of on your washer repair and trouble shooting. Make sure you really check out the different areas to click on on this site..
Here is the link. I hope this helps you, mike

http://home.howstuffworks.com/how-to-repair-a-washing-machine.htm

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,

'This has to stop' sounds as if you are complaining to the manufacturer ;-0)
The FixYa forum does not represent any particular manufacturer as the members are just ordinary guys and gals, probably working from home, from all over, helping diagnose problems and faults and hopefully offering solutions!

I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor/pump lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not even go to rinse or spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
Following are my complete and hopefully 'coverall' pre-typed guidance notes for checking both the drain motor filter and the drain motor ;-0)
REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT (alternatively use a wet vac as sensibly suggested by VinnyB1234!)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!). These panels are either held on by (plasic) screws or will just pull off. Most filters are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play.
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning.

If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C

sounds like the drain line is too low it needs to be higher than the water level when running a full load...you can check this buy filling with water and stoping the cycle and see where the water stops draining im sure it will stop at the level of your drain line in the back of the washer. the drain line in the back of your washer should come out of the bottom of the washer and then go up to a drain pipe..if its lower than the full water level of the washer then gravity will take over and drain the water... i hope this helps

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
Start with this!
It is necessary to ensure absolutely that the machine has all 4 feet very firmly on the floor, and I mean firmly ;-0)
Doesn't matter whether it is empty or not but switch it off then-
very firmly push one front corner diagonally into the centre of the machine and see if the machine moves or rocks AT ALL, even the slightest. If it does you will need the open-ended spanner which came with the (new) machine........which of course went missing a long time ago?!! An adjustable spanner will suffice.
Adjust the foot under that corner downwards until it is very firmly- almost pushing- against the floor but not so far that the corner lifts up!
If this corner did not rock do the same to the other.
Once you cannot rock the machine the slightest little bit, screw the locking nuts up tight to the underside of the machine so that they will not move. Ideally the rear feet should also be locked.

(If this has not cured the problem it is possible that the internal suspension is malfunctioning.)

If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C

Verify water flow to BOTH hot and cold inlet valves. Dirt can plug screens and Dad sometimes turns off water, trying to save $$. BOTH inlet valves need water flow.

Hello, welcome to FixYa.

Based on the info you provided in your post, it quite likely is the drive coupling that has broken...it is very common, that would indeed explain the noise appearing to be from the motor. (possibly a jammed pump too, but you'd know if it drains or not by advancing the timer)

**Unplug the washer from it's source/the wall before performing any service to the unit...safety first**

To inspect the drive coupling to confirm it is broken or not, you can lean the washer back (careful of the hoses) to allow you to visually inspect it or remove the cabinet completely...it is fairly straight forward and can be done even by a novice "handyman/person"

Part number is 285753A and will look like this image....


I've attached a link here that will provide the part availability and clear instructions to replace the coupling but also help describe the removal of the cabinet or to just inspect everything thoroughly. Once there scroll to the bottom of the page.

http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Motor-Coupling/1195967

Let me know how you make out or if you require further assistance and I'll be glad to help in any manner I can. Good luck.

Regards,

Macmarkus :)

If this is a Whirlpool manufactured TOP LOADER (such as Kenmore, Roper, Estate and certain late model Maytags), the most common cause of the symptoms you just described is a lid switch malfunction or lid strike (actuator) problem. Symptoms may include, filling and stopping on the initial fill cycle, stopping right after the wash cycle, not advancing to rinse or spin cycles, and a wash tub that may not drain.

The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike" or "Actuator") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are tight. Sometimes these screws will loosen, causing the lid switch make intermittent contact. If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3557193-replacing_a_lid_switch

On some models, the lid switch is located under the top casing by one of the lid hinges. You will know if you if you have this type of switch, because it does NOT have a lid strike (actuator) and the small hole on the right hand side of the wash tub will not be present. This type of switch is actuated (toggled) by a rod on the lid hinge. With this type of switch, if you locate it and it can be toggled by hand, you may only need to adjust the actuator rod by bending it slightly.

NOTE: You do not have to drain or bail the water from the washer tub to perform this repair. Once a defective lid switch is replaced, the washer should drain normally.


Replacement parts (if required) can be purchased at any of the following web sites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

The first three sites on the list, include helpful exploded view parts illustrations to assist you with locating and properly identifying any parts you may need. The lid switch and associated components are usually listed under the "Top and Cabinet" parts listing.

CAUTION: Banging or slamming the lid can actually cause more harm than good. These switches are fragile and can break easily in this manner.

The average price of a replacement lid switch is about $20 - $30 if you perform the repair yourself. The lid strike (if equipped) usually costs less than $5. Prices will vary between sites so shop and compare. If you have questions, or need additional assistance, please post back and let me know. This is a very simple repair that you can easily perform without the assistance of a repairman.


If you have any questions, please post back with your complete MODEL NUMBER (located on a nameplate along the wash tub rim under the lid) and let me know. I hope this helps you.


NOTE: If this advice does not help you enough, repairclinic.com has a Repair Manual you can order to assist you with all your repairs. The part number is 1170635 and is priced at about $20.

Searspartsdirect.com also has a repair manual for about the same price. Part number 4314044L. I hope this information is helpful to you.

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not even go to spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
Here are my complete guidance notes for checking both the drain motor filter and the drain motor ;-0)
-------------------------------------

If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!) and most are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play!

REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT!
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning!

If these actions have not cured the problem, it could be the control board OR the main motor. Motors will show weaknesses when commanded to spin.

If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not even go to spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
Here are my complete guidance notes for checking both the drain motor filter and the drain motor ;-0)
-------------------------------------

If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!) and most are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play!

REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT!
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. If it doesn't work then the motor is malfunctioning!

Hope the filter is the problem and good luck!
John C

Lid switch