20 Most Recent Frigidaire ATF6000ES Front Load Washer - Page 3 Questions & Answers

First of start by checking the rubber gasket seals around the door and making sure those are good and clean and dry. Then inspect the barrel itself. My daughter loves to leave scraps of paper in her pockets that then get stuck in my front loader. Clear any debris from the barrel. Does your machine have a small front access panel or back access to get to the filter? Most front loaders have some sort of filter on them apart from the barrel. If you can find this part, it is a common culprit. Mine is a tube shaped basket with a front access panel on this one. On the front loader before this one is was back panel accessable under the drum. when you check these have a bucket and some thing mop up with handy, towels, mop, etc. One other thing to consider is the drain hose from the machine. I have flushed mine using a garden hose in the yard and used a little bleach.

Maintenance tips for yourwashing machine maybe its the way to find the problem

replace the control panel or have it repaired,there is no e20 listed as a trouble code,so it needs to be replaced.

To clear latest stored error code:

Place the control into Diagnostic test Mode.

• Turn the program knob clockwise 9 clicks from the Start Position. The control will signal the last error code.
• Press and hold the Options and Pause Cancel buttons for 3 seconds. The code will be cleared.
• Exit Diagnostic Mode to return the washer to normal operation.

Error code - Fault condition

E11 Fill time too long. E13 Water leak in tub or air leak in air bell. E14 Reed switch. E21 Water not pumping out fast enough. E23 Drain pump relay on control board failed. E24 Drain pump relay on control board failed. E31 Better models. Pressure sensor not communicating with control board. E35 Better models. Pressure sensor indicates water overfill. E41 Control board thinks the door switch is open. E42 Door remains locked after cycle is completed. E43 Control board problem. E44 Control board problem. E45 Control board problem. E46 Control board problem. E47 Board thinks the door PTC circuit is open in spin. E48 Board thinks the door PTC circuit is closed. E52 Bad signal from tacho generator. E55 Motor overheating. E56 High motor current. E57 High current on inverter. E58 High current on motor phase. E59 No tacho signal for 3 seconds. E5A High temperature on heat sink. E5B High temperature on heat sink. E5C High temperature on heat sink. E5D Communication problem. E5E Communication problem. E5F Communication problem. E67 Input voltage on microprocessor incorrect. E75 Better models only. Water temperature sensor circuit. E76 Better model only. NTC temperature for the cold water valve over the limits. E95 Communication error. EB1 Incoming power frequency out of limits. EB2 Incoming line voltage above 130 VAC. EB3 Incoming line voltage below 90 VAC. EF1 Clogged drain pump. EF2 Too much soap.

Hello, problem here is the spin control board is bad. Remove panel under the door and you can locate the spin control at the rear right of the machine screwed to the floor. Replace it and you will be all set. Mike

The washtub suspension allows it to move but when overloaded it will move rather more than it is designed for and could open a gap between the washtub and the door large enough to allow items to slip through. The suspension is carefully designed to absorb the out of balance forces, with which the washer would be noisy and tend to "walk" around the kitchen. These days consumers demand smoother and quieter performance from their washers and so it is increasingly important not to overload them. A friend called out the service engineer to his new washer that he had been operating just like his old one. The engineer began by plugging in a laptop and looking accusingly at him said he had overloaded his new machine nine times in the few weeks since it was delivered. Guessing is no longer an acceptable method of loading the washing machine...

Have you tried to realign the door itself? Maybe the door is sagging too much to latch correctly on the door strike?

Are you sure it's the door seal? If it is they are normally just held in place with 2 metal rings, 1 at the edge of the seal at the door opening and one at the outer drum. Once you remove the front ring from the door opening you can gain access to the one at the drum. Removing the lid of the machine will also help and give you a bit more light.Anyone with a bit of DIY know how should be able to replace it, an hour tops for a beginner.