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Frigidaire GLTF2940E Gallery 3.5 Cu. Ft. King Size Front Loading Washer - Page 2 Questions & Answers
Why dose my washer keep throwing belt
It can be due to problems faced by poor alignment of the motor, pulley and shaft. Also it can be due to worn belt or tight spindle that makes the belt slip over. check the free movement of the spindle and pulley , if not the assembly must be reset.
E5e
Possible there is fault in the inlet valve and it is possible that either it can be clogged with dirt or is not working because of a faulty valve- open coil or if there is no power from the program controller.check this link for tips to remove:
Inlet valve.
My galley won't turn its
Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
It does sound as if the motor requires replacement because it is struggling. It is not uncommon to find that the brushes are worn sufficiently for them to not make perfect contact with the commutator at the higher speeds- bouncing and sparking. Now, a word or two of advice from this retired Englishman in SW France. It might be suggested that just the brushes on the motor want changing; experience (of others) suggests that they may only last months rather than many years UNLESS the motor itself is refurbished. Refurbishment includes skimming the commutator on which the brushes run. Without skimming the brushes do not sit cleanly on the commutator (like the worn ones!), often causing excessive sparking and excessive wear on BOTH. Alternately a new motor! I changed the motor on our 19+ year-old Bosch at a cost of GBP250 ;-0(
The choice of course is entirely up to you- but do not forget that it is not an uncommon fault, especially if the washer is not exactly new. Others I have given this advice to have chosen new brushes and I don't blame them!
If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C
My Frigidaire washer will tumble
Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
The wetness is probably from water still left inside ;-0)
I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor/pump lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not even go to rinse or spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
Following are my complete and hopefully 'coverall' pre-typed guidance notes for checking both the drain motor filter and the drain motor ;-0)
REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT (alternatively use a wet vac as sensibly suggested by VinnyB1234!)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!). These panels are either held on by (plasic) screws or will just pull off. Most filters are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play.
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning.
If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C
Water will not drain from
Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
VERY EASILY!
I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor/pump lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not even go to rinse or spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
Following are my complete and hopefully 'coverall' pre-typed guidance notes for checking both the drain motor filter and the drain motor ;-0)
REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT (alternatively use a wet vac as sensibly suggested by VinnyB1234!)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!). These panels are either held on by (plasic) screws or will just pull off. Most filters are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play.
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning.
If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C
We moved the machine to a new house Saturday,
Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
Sorry, I do not have the fault codes for your washer but I am having a stab, just in case at least one of the 'D's' refers to 'Drainage'!
It's well worth carrying the following out anyway!!
I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor/pump lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not even go to rinse or spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
Following are my complete and generic guidance notes for checking both the drain motor filter and the drain motor ;-0)
REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT (alternatively use a wet vac as sensibly suggested by VinnyB1234!)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!). These panels are either held on by (plasic) screws or will just pull off. Most filters are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play.
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning.
If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C
My moms front loader is
Turn off the machine then unplug it for at least 5 minutes and plug it back. Turn on the washer then
press any button and wait for 5 seconds. Press and hold the START/PAUSE and CANCEL buttons simultaneously and the most recent error code will appear on the display as an "E" followed by two
numbers, a number and a letter or two letters. The control will beep and
the Door Lock, Wash, Rinse, and Final Spin indicator lights will flash. Post back the error code to determine the problem and necessary actions to be undertaken in order to address it.
During a cycle, my wash machine locked up. The
Your machine doesn't appear as a Frigidaire front loading machine but a Kenmore, Whirlpool, or Maytag and fault code F05 is pertaining to a problem related to the water temperature sensed by the central control unit (CCU). The water temperature is apparently extremely high as sensed by the CCU and this could
mean the water temperature sensor value is out of range, disconnected or shorted, the heating element is broken/shorted to ground or the heating element relay has failed.
Disconnect power and remove the bottom front panel to access the parts in question. Remove
the three screws securing the bottom front panel to the cabinet then
pull the panel down and off the cabinet. You may prop up the bottom
front edge of the machine with a 4X4 block of wood or cushion the top
rear edge and lean it against the wall for easy access and removal of
the screws.
Check
the connections to the sensor, heating element, and the relay then make
sure they are snug and fit. The resistance between the heating element
terminals must be around 15 ohms and the relay coils resistance is also
around 15 ohms. Click on the link below for the complete and detailed troubleshooting of this fault code F05.
Error Code F05 on Whirlpool, Kenmore, and Maytag Front-Load Washing Machines
Please indicate explicitly the exact model number of the machine
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