20 Most Recent Frigidaire 14.1 cu. ft. Upright Freezer (FFU14K0DW) - Page 8 Questions & Answers

most fridge door seals are attached to the door by screws. If you flap the seal up from the bottom you should see some screws. if you go to the site below it gives your guidance on replacing the seals on fridges, as all fridge seals are pretty generic you should find it useful
http://www.wikihow.com/Replace-a-Refrigerator-Door-Seal

I hope this helps

Problem resolved. I removed the relay, cleaned the contact, and reassembled the unit. The compressor fired right up. I found another resource which explained how to verify that the relay was operating correctly. Thanks.

Refrigeration units don't care for the most part how cold it gets with exceptions. The oil is not a concern, neither is manual or auto defrost. Refrigeration units that are required to operate in cold temperatures, say below 30 degrees F. have crankcase heaters on them to heat the oil which keeps freon moving out of the oil and the bottom of the compressor. Otherwise when the compressor starts the cold freon will we sucked out of the bottom of the compress with a large quantity of oil which can destroy the compressor. Another item used for cold weather application is a fan control sensor which keeps the condensing temperature up or the unit will again remove the oil from the crankcase. It may work fine for a quite a while, but it will fail in continuously cold temperatures.

you should def have a 5 year warr on your compressor( all your sealed system parts) , youll need a factory authorized company, to come ck out so if it is a sealed system repair they will honor y our warr. dont know how it works where you are but,theres got to be 12 companies just in my area willing to do that

YOU MOST LIKELY HAVE A FREON LEAK AND RUNNING THE FREEZER WITHOUT FREON IN IT WILL KILL THE COMPRESSOR UNLESS YOU UNPLUG IT AND GET IT FIXED,THE COILS ON MOST FREEZERS ARE IN THE SIDE WALLS SO YOU DON'T HAVE TO CLEAN THEM LIKE ON YOUR FRIG.HOPE THIS HELPS-MIKE

Check the door seal all the way around. We purchased one recently that was slightly dented (not noticeably and the seal was not tight.) You need to get in touch with whomever you purchased it from immediately so that it can be repaired or replaced.

Sounds like the switch or wiring around the switch is shorting out. Most light switches pop out with a screw driver.Some older units might have a small heater in the door around the seal but usually not See if there is any wiring going through the hinge pin. If so you can safely cut and tape this off. The door might sweat a little but this is a solution. Please deal with this as it could be a shock hazard. You might not notice if you touch and are wearing dry shoes, but a barefoot child could be killed.

The manual for this unit can be found here.

condinser fan motor is probably not turning.

The automatic temperature switch probably out of order

Sounds like a defrost system problem. Could be related to defrost timer, heaters or defrost thermostat. Have it serviced.

All the shelfs should be getting cold starting at the top and working down. It may have a leak in the system or a restiction not letting the freon flow. It could of had the problem before the defrost. Small enough problem to stay frozen but won't bring back down to temp. Check to see if it's still in a sealed system warranty if so call for service.

If your freezer is six years old the compressor warranty is also over. Sounds as though the system has lost its refrigerant charge. A refrigerant leak in these smaller units is difficult to locate and somewhat expensive to repair. Your choice.

someone suggested to me the other day to put weter foods closer to the top the ones with dripin water and more solids down at bottom they said this changes the climate inside to be more economical
im just passing this info cause ive never had or been in contact with a upright freezer

all frost free freezers have to defrost the coils. there is a drain pan or cup in the bottom .. if it overflows or it can't drain out you will get puddles check the drain hose and drain cup or pan.. also check to see if you have ice inside the bottom of you freezer that would be a plugged or freezing drain hose..call for services if only 4 months old...

DR....let's go down the list:

First is freeze up. This happens when too much humidity gets into the unit from the air and forms ice on the coils. Defrost the unit using warm air or leave it open and off for two days.

Problems that cause this: high humidity, 'window shopping', unit not left closed or bad gasket. If the gasket looks damaged, it will need to be replaced. Gaskets that have accumulated dirt don't seal. Use a mild cleaner to fix this. If you have doubts about an area where the seal is questionable...use a sheet of paper about 2-3 inches wide, close the door and pull it through. No resistance indicates a poor seal.

Make sure you clean out the condenser...the coils where the heat is rejected by the unit.

It is possible that you have refrigerant or defrost timer issues. To check for low refrigerant, start the unit after defrosting it. Note that the larger pipe attached to the big black thing....the compressor...will start to frost. It should then start to form ice while the unit is running...about 5 minutes. If the frost stays and the pipe is not REALLY cold, you have a problem with refrigerant. Sealed units are warranted for 5 years. Defrost timer issues are best left to a tech.

IS THE FREEZER AN AUTO DEFROST FREEZER? IF SO, IS THERE FROST BUILT UP ON THE BACK WALL? IF FROST APPEARS ON THE BACK WALL, THERE IS A DEFROST FAILURE. THERE ARE THREE ITEMS IN THE DEFROST CIRCUIT. THE TIMER, HEATER, AND BI-METAL.
THE TIMER IS USUALLY LOCATED ON THE BACK OF THE FREEZER DOWN NEAR THE COMPRESSOR IN THE CORNER. IT HAS FOUR WIRES ATTACHED TO IT. YOU CAN ADVANCE THE TIMER BY TURNING THE KNOB ON THE FACE OF THE TIMER. WHEN IT CLICKS LOUD AND STOPS THE COMPRESSOR RUNNING, IT IS IN THE DEFROST CYCLE. WAIT 5 MNUTES AND CHECK INSIDE THE FREEZER
TO SEE IF THE HEATER COMES ON. YOU MAY BE ABLE TO HEAR THE FROST MELTING AND DROPPING ON THE HEATER. IT WILL SIZZLE AND POP. ALSO, LOOK FOR A GLOWING DOWN AT THE BOTTOM OF THE BACK PANEL.
IF THE HEATER IS ON, THE TIMER IS BAD. IF NOT, CHECK THE HEATER AND BI-METAL.
IF THE COMPRESSOR IS NOT RUNNING, CHECK THE COLD CONTROL TO SEE IF IT IS GOOD. IF THE COLD CONTROL IS O.K., THE START DEVICE ON THE COMPRESSOR MAY BE BAD. DOES THE COMPRESSOR HUM FOR A MINUTE AND THEN CLICK AND SHUT OFF. IT CAN BE EITHER THE START DEVICE (RELAY) OR THE COMPRESSOR IS BAD.

it might have low volatge to compressor and burned out overload try unplugging it again wait a few hours and plug it back in it might start working good luck if it doesnt try replacing relay overload compasator they sell a kit called a 3 n 1 start kit

It sound like you had a freon leak, you REALLY need to get this checked by a tech. if you are leaking freon it can be dangerous.

Question edited for clarity and add maker. Question moved to correct category. 16 cubic feet for that series, the '16' in the model number. https://www.google.com/search?q=Frigidaire+FFU1424DW16+freezer+Cubic+feet ..