20 Most Recent LG 24 in. LDS 5811 Built-in Dishwasher - Page 9 Questions & Answers

Recommend you remove the approximately 10 screws to pull the entire filter and manually clean. Remove all debris you find and thoroughly rinse out the filter if you can separate the top from the bottom. If the sump area is greasy, use a de-greasing spray to cut through it. Resemble, checking that there are no blockages in the holes on the spray arms.
Fill a bowl or cup with white vinegar and place it on the lower rack of the empty dishwasher. Do not add detergent. Run the quick cycle. The inside of the dishwasher should now be clean and not greasy. If still greasy, use the de-greasing spray (avaiable at all stores in the cleaning section.)
For 30 days, use only Electrosol or Cascade powder. Do NOT use gel or tablets, ever. Please report back your results. Good Luck!
ianc435 , please ask your question in as a new problem and I will help you out. I understand your problem.

To the people here with the poor cleaning problems:
Try these steps:
Buy a small box of Cascade or Electrosol diswashing powder. Use only it for 30 days and report back. Do not use gel, tablets or ultra low end detergent. I have proven that ultra cheap powder WILL cause problems.
Also, fill a bowl or large cup with white vinigar, place it in the bottom shelf of of the empty dishwasher. Do not add any detergant. Run a normal or quick cycle.
If you still have poor cleaning, it is time to call for service or remove the filter beneath the lower rack and search for debris that will need to be removed.
Please report back with your results and the make/model of the dishwasher. Good Luck!

Hi Tom,
Can you confirm that you are talking about the LG 5811 dishwasher? Thanks!

Please confirm the model number of this LG diswasher.
On recent LG units, the avaiable error codes are: IE OE E1 FE tE LE
The PE code is abnormal. Can you confirm.
I would expect to see the error OE if water is not fully pumped out. Remove the filter from the sump area beneath the bottom rack. Look closely for debris causing a blockage/lock. Please get back to me with your findings and ask more questions as needed.

The LG 5811 dishwasher would display the error "tE" if the thermistor has failed. Not seeing an error could mean that the controller card (PCB) has failed. Hard to tell if the heating element has failed or wiring has shorted.
To look a little further, you can see (but not remove) the heating element by removing the filter in the sump area beneath the bottom rack. Disconnect dishwasher from power first and inspect for obvious failure of element.
Gaining access to the heating element is very complicated on the LG units. You have to drop the entire sump unit after turning the dishwasher over on its top.
Recommend a service call.

Steam coming out is not normal and you should get it serviced soon. While not dangerous, it probably means that water is leaking inside the door panel from the "Hybrid Drying System" that is a feature which LG uses/touts. Other disheashers use a conventional condensing drying system.
The moist air enters through the internal drying system in the door panel, dry air is added from the outside air with the help of a fan and that air is routed though ducting down to the bottom of the door.
That system is clearly broken. If you have more questions on this, please reply. Good luck!

The recent LG diswashers, including the xx11 models, the power and the water inlet is in the front, imediatly behind the kick plate. Be careful to route the power and water straight from the back of the enclosure. Removing two screws on the lower front of the dishwasher is all you need to do to find them.
It is designed that way because the LG has such a huge internal compartment and there is not way to put these connectors in the back at the normal rear location.
Hope this helps. Please close

This is a thermal error.
The Inlet Water Temperature is
very high. (over 194 )
Wiring connection is OK?
The Thermistor is OK?
Wiring connection is OK?
The Impeller of Washing Pump is
locked.
The rotor of Washing Motor is
locked.
The Blade is locked.
Check the temperature. (Test Mode)
If the temperature is displayed,
adjust the Inlet Water
Temperature to 120 .
If the temperature is not
displayed,
check the wiring connection.
check the electric resistance
of Thermistor.
(11~14k at 77 )
Replace the PCB.

It sounds like the flood switch in the bottom of the washer is activated. check for water in the base as the machine if maybe leaking. This is a Dishwasher?

IE is inlet error, displayed when "Not reached to the normal water level in spite of 10 min. water supply"

Possible cause:

• The Water Supply Tap is closed.
• The Water Supply is shut off.
• The Inlet Hose is kinked.
• The Water Pressure is very low.(below 10 psi)
• Inlet Valve is OK?
• The filter of Inlet Valve is clogged by impure water.
• The Hall sensor is OK?
• The Impeller of Air Guide is bound.

Remedy:

• Cut power by tripping circuit breaker or unplugging power cable for ten minutes.
  
• Take action on Water Supply device.
• Measure the electric resistance of Inlet Valve. (950-1300 )
• Clean the filter of Inlet Valve.
• Check the frequency of Inlet Water by the Test Mode.
• Replace the Air Braker.

If you have separated the door panels and confirmed that none of the wiring is embedded in the insulation mastic, your next step is to take the covers off the sump area in the bottom of the dishwasher to see if anything (like dental floss or twist ties) is wrapped around the motor shaft. (note: the cutter blade on the end of the motor shaft is held on with a screw that has a left hand thread) If all was clear, replace the motor. To replace motor, pull dishwasher out of cabinet and lay on its side for easy replacement from this point.

The PF code means that there is a power problem with your unit. Make sure that you're not having issues with your outlet.  Check the connection at the junction box to make sure they're good and tight.  If both of those check out ok, open the front panel of the dishwasher and check the wiring harness there.  About 1/3 of the way up from the bottom of the door, inspect the wire harness for any signs of cracks or breaks in the wire.  Repair the damaged wires and that should take care of your PF issues.

There are two black plastic covers on the front of the base of the machine, it is easy enough to get a sponge in and mop out the sump when it happens. The covers are hard to flip out, but a simple modification with a file has made them more readily removable for mopping out. That's nearly as easy as emptying a drip dray.
The level sensor that causes the E4 error. Its at the middle front of the sump pan, and consists of a polystyrene foam float that trips a micro switch. it only needed a small (say 3mm) movement to operate.All back in place and will work again.

You might try a part number 3920DD3005A door gasket, which is a bit thicker than the old ones and should help with this issue for many LG dishwashers.

IE is inlet error, displayed when "Not reached to the normal water level in spite of 10 min. water supply"

Possible cause:

• The Water Supply Tap is closed.
• The Water Supply is shut off.
• The Inlet Hose is kinked.
• The Water Pressure is very low.(below 10 psi)
• Inlet Valve is OK?
• The filter of Inlet Valve is clogged by impure water.
• The Hall sensor is OK?
• The Impeller of Air Guide is bound.

Remedy:

• Cut power by tripping circuit breaker or unplugging power cable for ten minutes.
  
• Take action on Water Supply device.
• Measure the electric resistance of Inlet Valve. (950-1300 )
• Clean the filter of Inlet Valve.
• Check the frequency of Inlet Water by the Test Mode.
• Replace the Air Braker.

Hi Chaz,

The impeller breaks on the motor shaft. The motor still turns, but the impeller doesn't, so it doesn't pump water. Because the machine senses there is no water pressure from the pump, it shuts down & displays E1 (it thinks there's a water leak, due to no pressure)
Unfortunately the motor/impeller is only available as a complete assembly

Hope this helps

Col

Generally there are three items to be addressed:  You will need power.  This should be a separate line appropriately protected...usually 15 or 20 amps, depending on wire size serving the unit.  You will need a hot water line which attaches to a fitting under the machine.  You will need a fitting to drain the water to the drain line.  If you're going to permanently install, you should have a fitting to do this on the drain line of the sink.  It is generally included with the machine.  If you have a disposer on the drain, a knockout plug on the dishwasher will allow you to install it.  If this information is insufficient, I suggest you get service help to do this.

No filter in these units. It is possible that sand has gotten into the sump assembly and is not allowing the vario motor to properly switch between the upper and lower spray nozzles.

There is no adjustment to the door hinges. If your hinges are failing they will need to be replaced.

If your unit has a serial number that starts with 712 or lower then there may be an issue with the wiring in the door. This sounds like your case if you had a broken wire and discolored wires. The issue has to do with black, tarry residue getting on the wires and causing them to deteriorate from the inside out.

If this is your case, call LG customer service at 800-243-0000 and have them refer to service bulletin IDSW20070060. If your unit is out of warranty they may extend it to cover the repairs (the door liner and wire harness will need replaced).