Top 20 Maytag MFD2561HE Stainless Steel Bottom Freezer French Door Refrigerator Questions & Answers

-If it seal too tight and can't take it out. How about try this. -Turn off the water -Release water out of the tap. -Now remove it. It should be easy to remove. Good luck Mai

Hello Hans; My name is Peter. I am a retired field service refrigeration technician. There could be several areas that would effect your water dispenser not working: 1.) When you depress the water dispenser do you hear a 'Click'? If not you have a bad water dispenser contact switch. I would send you a diagram but I do not have your model number. 2.) In the lower back of your fresh food section is your water dispenser water tank. At times this can freeze near the freezer section. Look in the lower corner of the freezer & your fresh food section for ice build-up. 3.) You could have a bad water filter. This does happen often. Remove the water filter and test you water dispenser. 4.) Do you have water leaking out of the bottom of your dispenser door? If so you have a split in the tubing in your water dispenser door. 5.) Is your ice maker working? Often the water valve to your refrigerator becomes plugged up and you do not get sufficient water pressure 60 PSI to operate your water dispenser solenoid valve.

Had this same problem, turned out to be a motor to the fan the blows the cold air into the refrigerator section got a build up and burned out the fan. replaced that motor and has worked like a charm ever since. Sorry I don't remember the price for the repair, it was probably around 5 or 6 years ago, but I don't think it was too bad, maybe 200 with labor

I would be looking at a new control board. Sometimes you don't know whaTthere going to do and when there going to do it when they are on there way out. The board will tell the unit the temp inside and tell the compresser to turn on or off and to make ice or not. It is the heart and if it is faulty then nothing works properley

Sounds like either the water valve is bad or the line is plugged or frozen somewhere. To check the valve pull the water line off where the water feeds the reservoir have somebody try to dispense water you should have water coming out.If not try to dispense water again and listen for a slight buzzing noise if you hear the buzzing noise and you get no water the valve is bad.Always check the lines for freezing or restrictions before you replace the valve.

NOTE: This
is a multi-solution answer since I don't have all the tech from your question to pinpoint your problem
But the solution is in here generically, if you read and study the solutions very,very carefully.
First I would check cold control. Thats where you turn it off, if your temp is not warm. it can
be defective and not shutting off. If your temp is warm proceed with the following.
I would check the fan in the freezer. Listen to see if it is running
It moves air to the ref from the freezer
Then check to see if FREEZER CONTROL is turned WARMER WHICH MAKES THE REF COLDER AND VICE-VERSA. SEE?
The ref. temp should be about 33-35
The Freezer temp should be 0 to 10 Any thing below these temps is overkill and a waste of elect
The higher the number you turn it up to is the coldest
But is probably a common defrost problem The ice build up
is not being melted by the defrost system.The fan can't blow through the coils into the fridge.
Take out back panel of freezer to check for ice buildup. The coils should be clean.
There are three components to a defrost system- a heater,heater thermostat, and a timer unless you have a defrost electronic card.
Its best handled by a Technician but you could possibly do it by taking your model number to the nearest appliance parts store and asking for the parts. They are mostly located in freezer ,behind back panel on freezer coils.except the card which is usually located in ref The parts store will have info
Also check fan undernearh Ref in the rear
Clean condenser coils underneath
Make sure back cover is on the fridge. Some take them off and throw them away.
make one out of cardboard if its gone, using the holes of the old one.
.I'm including my article on Refrigerator Repair for your help and convenience.;
Please click or copy and paste into browser for Article

http://www.fixya.com/support/r5816737-fix_refrigerator_psychologically

If you need more help go here:

http://www.applianceaid.com/procedures.html

MORE TIPS AND TRICKS:
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STOP PAYING FOR EXPENSIVE WATER FILTERS FOR YOUR REF. DO THIS====
http://www.fixya.com/support/r9962087-stop_paying_high_price_refrigerator
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WATER SPLASHING IN FREEZER AT ICEMAKER
THE FILL TUBE IN BACK OF REFRIGERATOR CAN SLIP
AGAINST THE FILL RESERVOIR CAUSING A PARTIAL BLOCKAGE
OR BECOME CLOGGED WITH ICE.
REMOVE THE ICEMAKER AND INSPECT THE FILL TUBE.
RUN WATER IN TUBE TO ELININATE BLOCKAGE AND CHECK
TEMP IN FREEZER. IF TEMP IS BELOW 0 DEGREES, THATS
OVERKILL AND USUALLY A WASTE OF ELECTRICITY TO KEEP IT THAT COLD, NOT TO MENTION THE FILL TUBE FREEZING UP
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Thanks for using fixya
Leo Ponder
imufo2
Please VOTE FOR ME AND GIVE ME YOUR TESTIMONIAL IF POSSIBLE, IF THIS WAS HELPFUL
ITWILL BE MUCH APPRECIATED.

Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly
Here is the users manual that is probably inside the door you can not get open:

https://www.maytag.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/OCManualsLiteratureSearchResultView?catalogId=10562&langId=-1&storeId=10212

Find your model number and download the maual. The last 3 figits HES there is a problem with the number you passed. I am using this manual as a reference:
https://www.maytag.com/digitalassets/MLPDF/User%20Instructions%20-%20W10175446.pdf

If your unit has the mini handle on the top right or top left gently lift and swing the door open. If you have the lone horizontal handle on the front of the freezer door it just pulls open and slides out.

If this is a NEW unit... you must remove the shipping tape from the door (2 to 3 places) to get it open.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

Hello, Thank You for using FixYa. I will be helping you today.The water tank is in the fresh food section remove the drawers and you will see it. Use a hair dryer and heat the tank and lines untill the water starts to dispense.
Thank You and please rate my answer if it was helpful..

You will need the service tech sheet...it should be located in the control panel.

On your display do you have any error codes displayed?

How are the temperatures in the freezer and refrigerator sections?

Here is the link to your control panel parts drawing. It will help you take it apart and check the power.Click on the link http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Maytag-Parts/Refrigerator-Parts/Model-MFD2561HEB/3048/0161000/M0704044/00007?blt=06&prst=&shdMod=

Here is the link for your wiring schematic.
Click on the link http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/partsdirect/showSubComp.pd?imageUrl=http%3a%2f%2fc.searspartsdirect.com%2flis_png%2fPLDM%2fM0704044-00018.png

If you have never used a volt meter or have not repaired or checked incoming power or experience with electronics I suggest you call for service.

If you have a volt meter and you have power to the refrigerator check the incoming power to the control panel.

Post answers and results of power check please.

Keith

Hi I am Kelly, This is my experience and who I am:
http://blog.fixya.com/index.php/2010/05/award-winning-service

I just answered another post your 2 month old question appeared. First let me apologise for such a belated response. Here are my thoughts on your symptoms. Popping and cracking of the evaporator coils is pretty much normal. However... if the freezer door gasket is letting in outside air it can cause excess ice build up on the evaporator. It can also cause the ice in the ice maker drop bin to melt if the door gasket leak is severe enough.
There is another reason for abnormal ice sheeting especially in the ice bin. If the inlet water valve in the back of the unit where the unility water supply connects is bypassing water when it is supposed to be shut off it will over-fill the ice maker and clump the ice in the ice bin. One of the symptoms that you won't notice unless you check it is ice build up in the ice maker rubber fill tube that ports water from the back of the unit to the ice maker. If this tube is not pliable... i.e.. there are sure signs of ice in the tube (more than a couple of drops... then the inlet water valve is bypassing water when it is not supposed to. The only remedy for ths is to replace the inlet water valve.

One way you can prove that the inlet wter valve is bypassing water is to remove the plastic tube that plugs into the rubber fill tube and place that in a baking pan overnight with the ice maker SHUT OFF. If you have water in the baking pan the next morning you know you need a new inlet water vavle.
Your parts are here:
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=5177000
The inlet water valve is item 10 of the above link.
There is yet another reason for sheeting ice in the ice bin and that would be thermistorfor the defrost heater is not operatng at the proper temps or: due to large amounts of ice has been slowly repositioned to an area that causes it to cycle way late and the freezer compartment is getting well above 32 F during the defrost cycle. FYI the thermitsor is usually positioned above the evaporator coils and cycles at 60 feg F to terminate the automatic defrost cycle. This partiuloar unit has the thermistor in a bracket on the lower RH side of the evaporator coils.
The thermistor is item 30 of this link:
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=5177000&diagram_id=28599081#d28599081
My intial suspicion is that there is a problem with the inlet water valve. Do the baking pan test I mentioned earlier and check for water the next morning. (Ice maker must be off)

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

Hi Jerry and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly

There are several things that can cause your apparently deceased refrigerator.

DO THIS FIRST
Inspect the Compressor PTC relay and thermal overload. Items 4 and 8 this link: http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=5174254&diagram_id=28599118#d28599118
It is located under the plastic cover on the side of the compressor. If this component has burned white wire on it or it failed internally you will not have power to the control board or the keypad.

Wiring diagram: (this will open in a new window)
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/frame_diagram.aspx?diagram_id=28599134&pkw_=basket&model_id=5174254&NewWindow=1

Next check the control board located in the back of the unit.
See this diagram item 21:
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=5174254&diagram_id=28599117#d28599117
Inspect the board for any sign of over-heating, hot spots, corrosion, Capacitors that are swollen on the end, the transformer for any signs of failure, or loose connectors (3 ea)
If you see any of the desribed symptoms most likely the board has failed.

Close up view of the board can be seen here:
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details.aspx?part_id=4434691

Most often the transformers fail on these boards as a result of another on the board component failure.
Since your keypad and display appear non-functional this board is the most likely failure.

Before you give up on this board inspect the keypad area and connectors for any signs of failure.
Item 12 this link:
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=5174254&diagram_id=28599119#d28599119

Keypad detailed view:
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details.aspx?part_id=4291445

Make sure the ribbon connector is properly seated to the connector of the electrical control item 5 of this link: http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=5174254&diagram_id=28599119#d28599119
The electrical control usually does not fail unless it was somehow cracked from an external force.

Power form the main control in the back of the unit is what provides power to the electrical control and keypad.

That is pretty much it. With out being there with a meter in hand and inspecting it first hand it is difficult to say exactly what componenet has failed. The steps above however should help you identify the failure.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

Lets try this first. Have someone with a voltage meter unplug the two wires on the side of the dual water control valve for water dispenser on rear of your refrigerator and place the red and black probes from meter into the female end of the dispenser side of plug. Then while someone presses the dispense water control have the other person read the voltage. It should read the same voltage as home voltage when pressed. Us care not to touch probe ends at time of testing. Please tell me your results. I don't think the door open had anything to do with this. Yes leaving a freezer door open for hours does confuse the refrigerators memory and produces heavy ice in strange places. Unpluging and replugging will resolve that. I think the water control valve began to fail by becoming weak and finally failed, Sea Breeze

removed freezer door and drawer by lifting and pulling out. removed ice maker with 3 screws and disconnect electrical plug. applied heat with hair dryer to water line. and all is well

First I need you to unplug pull away from wall and remove cover over the compressor. I want you to feel the top of the compressor and if too hot to hold your hand there let me know and do not plug back in until we can check the start relay, capacitor and overload. I suspect the start relay or capacitor may need replaced. Let me know, Sea Breeze

Hi. is your Maytag on the recall list? Do a google search. You may by one of the 1.6 million owners affected. If this solution has assisted you, please rate it. ricardok45

You may want to see if you have the issue as described at www.AnyoneCanFixIt.com for this refrigerator where the freezer is cold, but he refrigerator is warm...it talks about how to listen for the fan, if no fan sound from within the freezer, there is the step by step instructions to fix available there at the web site.

Wow, pay for the Premium Assistance Plan to get a quick solution ! I fixed my issue but thanks for the help ! I went to a FREE online forum and got my fix.

You will probably need to replace the fridge thermostat.

Here is the part: THERMOSTAT

Here a general diagram to locate the part: Side by Side

The thermostat can be tested using a multimeter.

Switch off the unit at the wall and leave it for a day to cool off. I think your compressor has overheated and has cut out on thermal overload. There should not be any problem with leaving the door open. The problem with the compressor is likely caused by poor power supply or a power surge.

hello frooska,

kindly look at the back panel of the freezer section. if you can hear the humming sound, find out where it is coming from. if the sound is coming from the compressor, that means the evaporator fan is not running.

but, take note that u need to press the door switch of the freezer in order to check the fan. the fan stops every time the door is open. if the fan is not running, you have to remove the middle panel, above the evaporator, the fan would be there. ( in the freezer section)

but if the fan is running and the back panel of the freezer is full of frost, then that would be a defrost issue.

defrost heater, bi-metal or defrost controller.

Tnx 4 uisng Fixya,

Drcool